There is a 18-2, (I'm pretty sure thats what it is), for sale locally that a friend of mine wanted me to come with and take a look at.

-Is there anything specific I should look for beyond the typical soft spots, keel wear and over all condition?
-Any bad years, or problems associated with certain years?

They want $1500 for it, and I've driven by it, and from the road it looks to be in pretty decent shape.

I owned one about 15 years ago. I had hull #5, one of the first ones.

Great boat. Other than what you've said, I haven't heard of any certain bad years. Anyone?

Other than general hull inspection previously mentioned be sure to check for corrosion of aluminium components. I have seen a couple of masts go soft around the base where seawater has leaked in and been allowed to stand, so check the base and all through mast fittings. Also the spreader and tiller connector threaded adjusters can seize. The rudder lockdown/release system needs checking for wear and damage and be wary of repairs to cracked cast alloy stocks.
If the boat has been well maintained it could be issue-free, but repair/replacement part costs to an older craft can mean it is often better to walk away and find a 'proper one'.

Cheshirecatman

Some of the early ones had foam sandwich all the way round under the hulls and were very prone to denting/damage along the keel. [Just fill it in if this is the case]
If the boat has been dragged up the beach a fair bit, the hulls may be ok but the center boards don't like it. The front edge is all that holds them together and if this is worn, the whole thing can separate at speed whilst sailing. If they are worn, just repair them with a bit of glass tape to be sure.

Decent boats, Not sure why they didn't compete with F18 when it got going. Guess they weren't too good with the spinnaker, never tried that on mine.

paul

Also make sure that you pull the center boards out and inspect the wells carefully.

Karl,

Your talking about a "Fresh Water Boat" ... correct? If so corrosion should be minimal. And you have already identified the bottom issues ... Checking the Daggerboards and trunks is "key" .... inspect the daggerboard "pivot points" carefully as they can wear out ... the edges/points that keep the pivot (a piece of 1" PVC pipe) can round and the pivot will keep popping out. They can be fixed but it is tedious !!!!

Also check the hulls just if front of the front crossbar for "wripples/waves" by rubbing the palm/flat of your hand fore and aft from the crossbar to approximently 24s" forward. The earlier P19's and P18-2s did not have a front sub-deck in them and if sailed really hard over time the bows "toed-in" and wripples/waves could/would develope. Now this was more of an issue w/ P19's w/ the larger sailplan and spinnackers. In approximently 1989 they started installing sub-decks in the P19 and I believe the P18-2 also.

The P18-2 is a SWEET ride ... it's basically a P19 that has been just reduced in size a little bit. The P19 was designed for a crew wieght of 325lbs min and the P18-2 was designed for crew wieght of 275lbs min (if I remember correctly).... And there are good sails availible from the Glaser's(Danger), Elliot-Patterson, Smythe, Saber etc, etc

FYI: There was NO F18 class when the P18-2 was designed in the mid-80's

In the late 80's, early 90's, my crew wieght of 340lbs pushed me towards the P-19 ... but I did look hard at a P18-2

I hope it is a "good" boat ... your friend will get alot of enjoyment as a P18-2 performs very well !!!!

Good Luck
Harry

PS: I'm curious, is it ever going to stop snowing out your way??? Everytime I turn around you guys are getting more snow !!!!

Granted, but the 18.2 was still in production and being raced in '94 when f18 got going. so would have been one of the boats that fitted the new rule at the time.