Holy extra block and tackles batman...
I grew up sailing H16 (very simple to rig and sail..) so I am a bit confused as to what all the lines are on my new(ancient 1979) Nacra 5.2. I figured out where a lot of the lines go, not really sure how to use them all yet (particularly the reason why you would want to adjust the jib halyard tension from either side of the mast, and what the mast rotator control thing does..); but, I am still confused by a few remaing lines. Jake, I noticed on another post you had some pictures of your 5.2. Do you have more? Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I spent last weekend upgrading the mast step to a captive system (that was swell), and I am looking to actually go sailing on this thing before summers out. Also, any tips on an easier way to step the mast? Thanks in advance!

First thing I would say is remove the captive system; if you break a shround or for what ever reason the mast comes cown; you may get trapped underneath it !

IMO caprive systems are a disaster waiting to happen !

Scooby, the captive system is the updated ball for the mast step, with the pin which is used to hold the new mast base onto the ball while stepping the mast. It's common practice to always remove the pin while sailing; I rivet an eyestrap to my mainbeam near the mast step to store it, so if the mast does come down on the water, the "captive system" will be available and there might maybe be a chance of stepping it again.
Sail fast

Thats right Andrew, it says right in the directions to remove the pin for sailing for, "better chance of recovery" in a dismasting...But thank you for the concern Scooby.

I do have some more pictures, but I don't have many of the mast and halyard rigging. It's really not that complicated of a boat - you should try an F18!?

If you can give me some specific questions, I'll be glad to see what I can clear up.

I'll go for the F18 in a few years yet, and of course after winning the lottery (I think the chances of winning are almost the same if you never buy a ticket, right?). At any rate, I will try to get a couple of pictures.
In the meantime, can you tell me why I need to be able to adjust the jib halyard tension on the fly, i.e. from either side of the mast. Also, when do you use the mast rotator control?
Thanks for the 101 level patience!

Some might want to adjust the jib luff tension tighter for better pointing ability upwind and loosen it downwind to add a little more belly/power to the sail and let it rotate a little better. My 5.2 had the jib uphaul rigged with 3:1 purchase that ended in a v-jam cleat all located on the port side of the mast. I really didn't mess with it that often but did use it to crank on the jib uphaul as it got windier. I did get to the point where we adjusted the jib uphaul frequently on the Nacra 6.0 for the various points of sail.

The rotator should be set for optimum performance as follows: upwind, close hauled, sailing = mast rotated so that the luff groove (at the back) is pointing at the leeward shroud. This should give you the best mainsail shape possible for upwind. Downwind, the mast should be rotated to 90 degrees so that the luff groove is now pointed down the main beam. Again, this is to provide the best leading edge of the mast/sail and give the best sail shape.

The dual jib halyard tension adjustment may be dual main downhaul adjustment?

Tell me if I'm wrong, but I think the 5.2 has positive rotation? ie, a boom? If so, the rotation control is a limiter, and is used to keep the shape of the mast and sail (leeward side) in a nice smooth airfoil shape upwind, and the mast rotated "a lot" downwind. The reason for more rotation downwind is that your apparent wind will be lower and so a draggier, lower-speed, higher-lift foil is needed.

If no boom, then the rotation control should be forced-rotation. The boom traveller (or hook-and-eye system) sets rotation to weather, and the forced-rotation hoop pulls the mast to right angles with the boat downwind. I've never broken a batten by forgetting to jibe the mast (Oh, I've forgotten...the battens just haven't broken) but I've heard tell it's possible. Good luck.

it has a boom and the factory rotation limiter was one line going to a v-jam cleat on the boom.

Hey thanks for the tips,
I have been too busy for a few days to log on...but I did finally snap a couple of pictures. On the mast rotator limitor, I do just have the arm with a single line jam cleat on the boom; if I correctly understood you explanation, I am supposed to keep is it tight when I am in heavy air (especially headed up) in order to provid less of a lifting foil on the main and leave loose in lighter air or off the wind in order to create a deep belly and therefore a lower speed foil. Is that right?

Two more pictures...

Andrew, there is also what I think must be the main down haul which seems to have a single pulley and cleat in conjunction with two pulleys that go on either side of the boom and then another block at the top (which in the picture is hanging down) that somehow attaches to the main...that is the line that is faded red.

Ok, the white line runs from the jam cleat (where it's probably tied off) thru the block on the rotation limiter, and back thru the jam cleat on the boom.
The double block with becket on the main downhaul system definitely attaches to the foot of the sail, in some fashion.
Finally, yeah, it DOES look you have dual jib halyard tension adjusters, set up so they can be tensioned from out near the hulls as you turn upwind, but you have to be inboard, at the mast, to ease them for downwind. Neat.

I've patiently waited till you seemingly finished the conversation but can you tell me about the pole that appears to be running through a pocket in your tramp that runs from the main beam to the aft beam? Can someone tell me what is that all about? Is that standard equip on a 5.2?
Thanks for your patience.......

Greg

OK - the things you put the arrow on and were asking about are part of the a barberhauler system that works like a "twinger" for the jib sheeting system so you can outhaul the sheeting angle for better jib shape downwind.

You should run a line through this cleat, through the sheave in the beam, through the beam, out the sheave on the opposite end of the beam, and through the matching cleat there. On each end of this line should be a plastic ring, or block with becket. The two sheet lines from each side of the boat that go to the clew of the jib should go through the appropriate ring.

The way this works - say you rounded A mark (with the mark to port) and you are going to head down the course downwind on starboard. While you are still on the starboard (windward) side of the boat, you ease out the main traveler, ease off the jib halyard slightly, rotate the mast to 90 degrees, ease the jib sheet, and pull the starboard end of the barber hauler until the ring is bottomed out on the beam. As you jibe, you will first need to release the starboard end of the barberhauler, jibe, then set the barberhauler on the port side once you've gone across.

The beam in the center of the trampoline (aka 'knee-knocker') is there to prevent the front beam from rotating. Early 5.2 models did not have the bolt that goes from inside the ends of the front beam into a plate in the hull to prevent rotation. This bar was the solution. It takes some getting used to.

barberhauler (a little of it showing anyway)

That's great guys, thanks for the help...
I am sure that the knee-knocker will take some getting used to, but as Jake stated in an earlier post, it will probably save the surf tramp effect...
Jake, on your boat is the spring line that runs along the outside of the hull and through a block for the trap?

Yes - but idealy, you should have a grommet in the trampoline for the bunji to go through instead of going through the front beam. I installed a replacement trampoline that did not have that grommet.

Thanks Jake!