I like to keep it simple, when possible.

I learned through my experience that reefing a beachcat sail leaves you with the inability to flatten that sail properly. Trying for perfect sail trim when reefed is wasted effort.

I now use this simple system for reefing:
Be sure that the halyard block and housing on the top of the mast is suitable for supporting the load of a hoisted sail that has some downhaul tension on it. Be sure that the halyard turning block at the bottom of the mast also can take the load.

Drop the sail to nearly its reefed position, leaving a couple of feet clearance for halyard stretch and sail luff stretch.

Tie off the halyard; I installed a small horn cleat on the outside of my kerf or luff groove. When I forgot that I had placed the cleat there, I just tied the halyard to the boom's gooseneck.

Attach the downhaul to the luff, reefing cringle.

Attach the outhaul to the reefing clew.

Sheet hard, travel out, and go sailing.

I crossed the Catalina Channel in this configuration, with the jib flying, a few weeks ago. Boat speeds reached 15 knots.

I have also been roller reefing my mylar jib when too much jib is bad and too little jib produces too much weather helm. I wouldn't do that with a dacron sail, but the mylar sails don't mind it at all.

Even a tiny corner of the jib's clew will offset much of the weather helm associated with the resultant CE, center of effort move aftward when sailing under main sail only.

I wouldn't hesitate to let out one foot of dacron sail, but I wouldnt' roller reef the jib to say 50% unless it was a mylar sandwich sail.

When sailing unirigged in high wind, there is a huge amount of weather helm due to the CE moving, the lack of flatness in the reefed sail, and the increased friction from the high wind. That tiny jib triangle up there, along with a severely eased main traveler can really save your trim balance.

GARY