Always avoid backwinding the jib during tacks...that stops the boat and can even start it backing up...A properly done tack should see a small speed loss and good accelaration out & onto the next tack.

Re-read the section in Cat Sailing for the '90s about roll-tacking. Your basic approach should be to have a hand on the cleated (or uncleated if light) jib sheet while sitting in your normal position before heading into the tack. Main in pretty tight. Shift your weight aft along the hull as you begin to turn up...then release the jib, letting it flog as you keep turning up...now shift your weight all the way aft, to the rear (still) windward corner. THe idea here is to lift the bows a little bit, effectively shortening the waterline and to create a pivot point on the old windward rear corner. Try to "Carve" your rudder blades smoothly through the water, not jam them over hard making lots of spray/drag. Keep the main in tight until just prior to going head to wind...then be sure to release it, easing at least one arm length of sheet . Keep rudders turned without flopping them back & forth as you pass the tiller extension behind the main sheet blocks. Move to the new hull, keep turning off wind. Do not sheet the main yet...do the jib first...but don't go forward until you're past head to wind to avoid stopping the turn and risking going into irons. Once the bows are turning nicely away from the wind and the boat begins to move forward, then sheet on the main. If you do this too soon you will end up in irons.

Practice this technique hundreds of times and then do it some more <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

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