Quote

Wouters F16 is a modified Taipan



Indeed,

I widened the platform to full F16 width
Replaced the rearbeam with a better section
Raised the mainbeam by 30 mm to reduce beam slap
Fitted an asymmetric spinnaker
Fitted a square top mainsail with a larger head then the Taipan
Ignored the width rules for the mainsail (much straighted leech then Taipan sails at the time)
Replaced the trampoline based jib sheeting with a selftacker (what a room on the tramp now !)
Replaced the eye poking rotation limiter with a mast foot fitted one (All F18's are/have gone this way too now)
Improved the internal downhaul system by making it tripple cascading and carefully choosing lines.
Replaced the recirculating ball traveller with a wheeled stainless steel ball bearing I-track (soooo much better in the sand)
Fitted a cascaded internal outhaul system with a quick release setup (hooking a ball in a slot)
Fitted a tapered mainsheet
Fitted a downhaul system that sucks excess line underneath the trampoline

And a score of other improvements.

I really do like my F16 but it is definately a 1st generation F16. It is probably best described as the prototype F16 and several of the posters here have taken a demo ride on it before pulling the lever on a (2nd generation or later F16) themselves.

The basic Taipan platform is a good basis for an F16 but when deciding to build a new I would opt for an improved hullshape.

OR

Seriously think about fitting T-foil rudders to the basic Taipan platform (that is still modified to F16 specs).

The Taipan is still a very good lightweather F16; I even feel it has the advantage there. Its hulls shape seems to track very well in that stuff. But in rough seastate and strong gusts the bows are too fine and you can overload them quite easily. Still, a little help from T-foil rudder will indeed go a very long way in correcting this downside. You only need a little extra margin there. Just enough to keep the rudders in and the bows a little more out, because then full steering is maintained and you can get out of trouble. That is the main drawback, that once the bows dig in, the boat quickly goes limp on the rudders. So even a reduction of a little diving can already have large positive effects.

Other then that. I think I paid some 12.500 Euro's to have this boat build and lots of spare time. Homebuilding is not adviced when you want to save money. Better get a second job then (less consuming of your spare time) and just buy a commercial boat for 15.000 Euro's. I suspect similar ratio's in costs for area's with different tax laws and currencies.

Wouter

Last edited by Wouter; 03/24/10 04:11 AM.

Wouter Hijink
Formula 16 NED 243 (one-off; homebuild)
The Netherlands