Mast rake basics:

Mast Rake is determined by shroud setting and jib halyard tension. The forestay is just for when the boat is not rigged. The forestay has to be long enough to stay slack when the mast is raked aft and jib halyard is tight. Should have a minimum slack of maybe 4" (often much more). When you sheet the main everything stretches. You want the entire rig load to stay on the wire inside the jib. If the forestay takes any load at all, the jib will not have a rigid leading edge and you will not be able to point.

The distance between the mainsheet blocks (older blocks are stacked, newer ones are "low profile and allow more rake) determines how much rake you can get on a boat. Adjust the shrouds then tension the jib halyard. Check the main sheeting. Tension the sheets as tightly as you would for that days wind speed. When fully sheeted the blocks should touch or nearly so.

If you have increased weather helm, you can re-drill the rudder blades to rake them forward (under the boat more). There are drilling descriptions on the Hobie Cat forum pages. There is a topic that handles cam, rake and alignment issues.

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=467

If you cannot sheet the jib fully, you need to move the tack attachment point higher. If there is a luff tensioning line on the jib. Use it on the bottom and shackle the head at the top to move it even higher. You should sheet the jib so the clew blocks nearly touch the jib traveler car for the best possible. A jib that is too high pinches the air flow off up high between the main and jib.