Hi, I've bought a TheMightyHobie18 Jib to fit to my H17...apparently they call this setup the Super Jib.
Is there anyone out there who has used this system, if so can you please tell me how far from the start of the Tramp Track are the Jib Tracks are fastened?
Thanks,
Nige email nigel@hobie17.com
H17

There is a way to figure out the correct sheeting point.

Before you hoist the sail, draw a line from the corner of the leech and the foot that is exactly half of the angle. For example, if the foot and the leech form a perfect 90 degree right angle, then draw a line from the corner towards the center of the sail at a 45 degree angle from the foot or leech.

Now hoist the sail and attach the sheet. Pull the sheet back along the deck where the track is to be laid until the sheet comes in line with the line you drew on the sail. This will give you a good reference point as to where to start your track.

If you're confused, then I can try to draw up something I suppose.

I am thinking of using that Jib for my H17. I contacted Murray's about the track location ant this is what they say:

Center the track on over the rivets holding the trampoline track extrusion.
Do not try to match the rivets holding the trampoline track
Place the end of the track 26" forward of the leading edge of the rear main
beam.
Secure the jib track by drilling and installing one rivet at the end of the
track BEFORE drilling the other holes.

This is for thier 18" long jib track.

What type of jib control / car do you plan to use? I was going to try the older H16 style.

Mike
P16
H17

Nigel, I sent you a reply, but just incase you look here first...I used the Murrays instructions that I think Mike has quoted. I strongly suggest using stainless steel bolts with nylock nuts and washers instead of the rivets. I have done it both ways, and believe the bolts are not as apt to crack the fiberglass. I found them easier to install, drill the hole, drop the bolt in, climb under the boat with washer and nut... With the rivets you need another person under the boat to hold the backup washer on to prevent the rivet from pulling through the glass. I still needed another person to snug up most of the nuts, but it seemed a lot easier. DON't OVERTIGHTEN the nuts! I sail boomless, and while I have Murrays Positive Mast Rotation Kit, it does nothing to prevent over-rotating. I'm still trying to figure that part out. I used the Harken blocks with camcleats on the sliding traveler car from Murrays. They seem to work pretty well, though the lines can get tangled if your not careful. I almost went over last season, after a tack, the mainsheet was wrapped around the jib car, and I had to turn into the wind to untangle it. Probably it was my sloppy sheet handling more than anything else at fault. Good luck! Let me know how it goes! Brian

Brian,

Do you thing the TheMightyHobie18 jib is the way to go? I am thinking about ordering one real soon. It looks like you have a square to main in your pic, mine should be arriving from Calvert in the next few weeks. Any other reccomendations?

I never sailed my 17's with anything else, but I really like it. The one problem I have is with hoisting, and droppping the sail. I finally gave up and just snorkel it during the Summer. Let us know what you get, and how you like it! Brian

Sorry I don't know if you saw my comments on another post, but I love the combination of the squaretop Main, and the Super Jib. My friends with 16's think my boat is too complicated, and a pain in the butt. But they are not nearly as fast, and they don't have wings! Here's another shot with furled jib. I got a lot of grief for paddling in, but it was easier than turning, and going out again to make my landing Brian

Sorry the photo idn't take. Let me try again.

What kind of trouble did you have raising and lowering it? I would imagine it would be the same as the stock jib. I have sailed Prindles for years so I am used to the zipper thing.

It does not seem like it would be any more complicated than a 16. Unirigged would be, but with a jib it should be about the same.

Also, did you say you sailed without a boom? using the boomlet? Calvert is making my new sail to go both ways, but I am planning on a boom for now.

Thank you for all of the helpful info!

Mike

Thanks everyone for the info .

After reading your replies I got my Rick White Cat Racing for the 90's out (Great Book, Rick & Mary) and there are 2 methods in there of sorting out the "ideal" job track position, so I'll try both and see how they match up with the 26" measurement.

I'm almost finished the H17 refurbishment and I've already used 6mm C/Sunk screws/washers/nuts for the Tramp Tracks as the previous rivets worked loose, so I'll use slightly longer C/Screws for the jib tracks.

As you can see my email is me@hobie17.com would there be any support if I also set up a Hobie17 website where we could post pictures, articles etc? Or maybe a Hobie17 Yahoo Group as posting files, pix seems reliable with them too. Just some ideas to get us 17 guys together, share ideas and have our "own place".

When I get my Jib Tracks sorted , I'll set up my Jib Cars/Blocks and try and post a pic, if not here, then somewhere.

Also I'll post a pic of my Mast Rotation setup...hopefully

Happy Sailing

Nige

H17

I'm doing the exact same thing currently.

Mounting the track and so-forth.