How did you get the deck off?. I recently heard some cracking noises while righting my P19 aft of the centerboard well. I think it was delaminating inside, however, no way to check it it out and if thats the case then I am looking at also removing the deck which Im not looking forward to do.

I recently set the boat w/ an F18 spinnaker and end pole snuffer, I have been loooking for a while for Tornado spinnakers/mainsails but no luck. F18 parts are more readily available. The main problem I had was the attachment of the support pin at the front crossbar. The pin (I think its a nacra standard) has a base with 4 attachment points, but due to the mast base casting it cannot be placed at the beam center. I secured it with two screws on the top two holes tapped into the the lower portion of the casting. For a pole Im using discarded Sunfish spars I can get free from a local sailing club (learned that trick while reseaching the P19 on this site), however I have gone through two already and I am currently searching for a windsurfing mast.

Good luck

A thin chisel or paint scrapper, and a hammer!

Be ready to take a mold off of the other hull's deck if you wreck this one getting it off

VMG is correct. I used a Putty knife with a thin blade. I tried several tools and the thin putty knife worked the best for me. I started at the front and worked my way backwards. It came off pretty well and didnt get too messed up. You can order new decks from Performance for $98 each. I ordered new ones rather than making my own since i dont know alot about glass. After i reinforce the hulls im thinking of smoothing the bows. My 5.2 has had the bow decks filled and its stiffer than stock and looks great! I am still trying to decide if i want to go this direction though because once they are filled and smoothed future repairs are much harder since you cant just remove the deck and order a new one.

TAKE PIXS. And, is that $98 for a set or just one?

wow... we have a few mystere6.0's with t masts and i was told they are 31... odd

According to Tornado.org waterline to top of mast max is 9800mm or 32.15 feet. What does the typical tornado measure from waterline to mast base?

That is PER side. $98 for each deck

The decks am assuming are three part?. Forward of the front beam, center section and the little square portion aft of the rear beam. For $98 I think its a good price. I am also guessing theres a lip or surface where you can lay the new deck and epoxy to the hull.

I would hate to think he is talking the front only? They probably have to make them special for this order.

The front decks are $98 each. These are the decks in front of the crossbar. 1 piece $98. They dont stock these old parts so yes they are semi special order. Apparently they still have the molds and make them per order.

PICS WILL BE UP SHORTLY!!!

The decks separated into skin and structure when i removed them


This pic is looking forward into the hull and shows the horizontal bracing in the front section


Here is a close up of the brace


looking back from the bow...Showing the bulkheads


Close up


Looking forward
[img]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q49/LT280z/IMG_1629.jpg[/img]

Looks like ive got some sanding to do...Alot of the deck was left on the rail
[img]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q49/LT280z/IMG_1631.jpg[/img]

So my question is should the boat be braced like the front between the rest of the bulkheads? I would assume not since it wasnt designed that way but i want this boat to last me a long time so my ears are open. I dont want to take any shortcuts and want to do it right, do it once, and be done with it. I have another boat to sail so this project will not be rushed. Give me your opinions and let me know what u think.

I have been on other prindles that have flexy decks so i intend to add some bracing of some sort to support the deck more than it is now. The decks are held on by the edge only and seem to flex when stepped on. I would rather the decks feel solid and firm with little to no flex.

I made the under deck support on my Stingray by putting 3 inch strips of divinacell foam inside the hulls just under the lip. I cut them longer than the gap so they flexed up to match the deck then put a bit of tape on with resin as I put the deck on. I also added another layer of divinacell foam under the decks.
Since you are doing a special order have you considered asking them to do a double layer of foam or layer of carbon underneath the decks? The lips are firm enough, keep an eye on the weight your adding.
regards

Something else to think about, and maybe I didn't catch this earlier, and that is put in some tangs for you spinnaker bridals similar to what is being used on the Inter boats.

Check out the photo section on the Tornadocat Yahoo forum...there's a nutty Aussie rebuilding his glass T boat in his living room. He's added lots of reinforcing including deck frames and gunwale stringers.

TornadoCat Forum Photo Gallery

Thanks for all the help so far guy's! I plan to start working on the boat next week so keep the idea's coming.

Hi TurboCat,

I'm not very good w/ computers, so I don't know how to "link" ..... but if you pull-up my posts and then look only at the P19 related ones you should find out what I've learned over the years. Please pay close attention to the posts about reinforcing the front crossbar (internally) as the number of front crossbars failing at the point where the dolphin striker ends is increasing as the aluminum crossbars are experiencing "fatique" failures.

To "stiffen" up the foredeck I would suggest installing a vertical web(s) on the underside of the deck before re-installation of the deck ... you will need to notch the bulkheads for clearence. Yes, I would install a subdeck in the front crossbar area ... this will prevent the bows from toeing in (feel for whipples/waves on the hulls just in front of the front crossbar on the in-board side). I took a simplier route by using a Nacra 6.0NA Bowfoil to prevent "toe-in" but this limits the angle of the spinpole to a very low attitude/angle. But it does works w/ a Tornado 25sqM chute since you need the luff length.

Send me a "PM" here on this forum and I'll answer your questions. FYI: Todd (Team Cat Fever)also has just a wee bit of experience on a P19 before he became a traitor and sold his to purchase a N20 .... we had many good times racing against each other (and drinking Beer) for a number of years.


Hi Tad (Thad?),

No, the beach at Tred Avon is not Oyster shells any more ... it is SAND ... it does have a nice angle of pitch, nothing to bad though. Now the parking lot and the pathways around the clubhouse are gravel ... ooch-ouch ... So we'll see you in September???? I maybe on Triple Threat aqain, if we get the spinpole that we tore off the deck in the "Around Long Island Race pounding through some big seas re-installed and fix the hole in the deck also. Todd saw her when he came up to Solomons Island a few weeks back for "The Screwpile" Regatta ... ask him what he thought about her. If not I'll be back on either my TheMightyHobie18 or P19 depending on who is crewing (most likely the P19)

Harry

Harry you can just paste (or type) the link in here with your copy..
www.msnbc.com

Not sure where the 29' measure comes from on the T mast. I measure from the top to the bottom of the mast section (not including the base) of a marstrom untapered aluminum section, 30'- 10 3/4". Now the luff of the sail may be around 29' but mast is about 31'.

The T chute and the N-20 chute may be the same area but the N-20 is a class sail built by one manufacturer. The T sail can be made flat or full and by anyone as long as it measures in.

I stand corrected. For the carbon T, class rules state:

Mast Length - -
Upper point height - 9294 mm = 30.49' Note this refers to the upper measurement band max height (head of sail cannot be above this line), not the overall length of the mast.

I think I was recalling the dimension between the upper & lower measurement bands, which is 8915mm or 29.25'.