The bottom gantry doesnt look as strong as the top one, not that I know anything about building though.
The Stealth rudder stocks have no " beaching " safety mechanism so the lower bracket has a " weak point " which I hope will break first should I clout something in the water at speed. The same section is threaded to allow adjustment of the foil. Any vertical stresses are taken by the upper more beefed up pintle.
Spot the difference in the "bow on" shot to a normal hull
Split forestay attachment way back on the hull to give as much space as possible to the spi so it can fly to either side from its under tramp position. Do I win?
Then it's got to be those special knots you use, you know the ones, only come apart when you least want them to. I still remember Grafham 2006, first race just started and within 30secs a big splash.....good knot Wayne. I guess you don't use them on your traps anymore! chuckle, chuckle
MP*MULTIHULLS
Re: BITZA F16
[Re: pepin]
#191604 09/22/0907:19 AM09/22/0907:19 AM
No, just to do with the hull, yes the splash was embarrasing to say the least and I couldn't blame anybody else. Since learnt to read manufacturers instructions better.
Nice job Wayne! Noone seems to have commented on the daggerboards being canted the 'wrong' way to perceived wisdom? I think you're onto something there though as there will undoubtedly be some lift generated with that setup that should help in reducing drag....... Have you done any theoretical calcs at a range of speeds?
John Alani ___________ Stealth F16s GBR527 and GBR538
Nice job Wayne! Noone seems to have commented on the daggerboards being canted the 'wrong' way to perceived wisdom? I think you're onto something there though as there will undoubtedly be some lift generated with that setup that should help in reducing drag....... Have you done any theoretical calcs at a range of speeds?
Eh????
John, I see them canted in (so tips are closer than the top); Standard in the A class fleet.
Wayne, are they "true" in the hulls; some A classes have them slightly toe in to create even more lift.
Nice job Wayne! Noone seems to have commented on the daggerboards being canted the 'wrong' way to perceived wisdom? I think you're onto something there though as there will undoubtedly be some lift generated with that setup that should help in reducing drag....... Have you done any theoretical calcs at a range of speeds?
Eh????
John, I see them canted in (so tips are closer than the top); Standard in the A class fleet.
Wayne, are they "true" in the hulls; some A classes have them slightly toe in to create even more lift.
Mmmmm now that is an interesting question, I tried to get them as neutral as possible but it is really difficult as you are no longer just pointing the dagger board in one axis and without really good optical equipment it is sort of an educated guess. I have left the dagger board cases quite big to enable a bit of shimming if I have to and my guess is that my sailing skills are such that it will be pretty difficult for me to really tell until some way down the line.
No its not the self tacker that has been left off ( no good to a single hander and this boat certainly doesn't have the volume to be anything other than a single hander ) but something far more unfashionable.
I left the bow vertical unlike the very now fashionable raked back " wave piercing " bow that we now see on most F16 designs. At the time of building the hulls I had been breaking the Sprit wires at the front due to a very high and long angle back to the forestay that the early Stealths came with ( the later ones have the mounting point much lower down on the inside of the hull). Tremendous pressure was obviously being placed on these wires and by consequence the hulls. Proof of this was one of the Stealths at the club was showing deformation of the hull just in front of the beam. To overcome this I moved my Stealth's sprit wires as far foward on the bow as possible to get much better upward angles and thus less tension from the Spinny. Using the same diameter D12 I haven't had any break since.
Now we can either rake the bow back, put a lot of carbon and reinforcing in the hull to take the increased loading or we can move the mounting point as far foward as possible by leaving the bow almost vertical, I choose the latter as unless you are doing about 30 knots the true wave piercing bows simply do not work. I do understand why we narrow down the top part of the hull but it has nothing to do with wave piercing.
Would I do the same if I was building another boat, nah raked back bows just look so much more ubber cool
It's obviously not a biggy cause non of us can spot it!! It appears to be a fairly normal bow to me but in good condition. Have a look at this photo and see if you can spot the mistake, this is a little easier for us but a bit more embarrassing for Wayne.