I have had a couple issues with my tack line at pole end (the interenal block turns sideways) and i think i am going to switch to this style block. Any pros or cons (or comments) about using this style?

Thanks for the input in advance

that one looks "ok" but you need to be careful that the tack line does not become frayed at the exit where it can rub up against those raised edges.

That one looks like it has rounded edges.

Make sure you put it in right way round! A colleague with a recently purchased used Inter 18 was having a hell of a time with his sets and douses. After a few weeks he asked me if I'd take a look. At first I couldn't see any problems - it all looked OK, but there was a lot of friction generally. Then I just glanced at the tack block while saying that I didn't use one like that and spotted that it was rivetted wrong way round and was getting all chewed up from the line jumping off. We turned it round and AFAIK he's happy with it.

What Tadd said is a big concern. I had a tack line come apart during the Tybee because of fraying from that type of block. I would not use it again.

what would you use?

I use the double micro (H368) in the pole and a small air-block (H340) on an eyestrap with a standing spring on the end. with the double thru-deck placed 6 or 8 inches away from the block on the eyestrap (on top at the very end of the pole), the thru-deck doesn't see any significant side angles...which they're not designed to handle. Haven't experienced any chaffing issues with it.

PS thanks guys for the data

I use one of these:

http://www.gobarefootstudio.com/TackGuide_09.html

I do use a similar CNC machined piece of aluminum, not made by those guys, but really similar. I only use the middle hole however for all three lines to go in.

ahhh yes.. we covered that.. it looks fantastic but i have a 2" pole so the snu version wont work and i think Pepin also stated he had a 1.5".

PS Pepin, I found a super "PLUG" for the cookie cutter end.. thanks for that tip!

Have one made. Stop at a local machinest's shop, show em a picture. It'd take longer to put the stock in the lathe than it would to turn it. Aluminum is like butter, I could damn near turn one by hand with my wood lathe. Drill the center hole yourself to save him some time as well.

I have turned a few on a wood lathe and it took about an hour. Most of the time was spent making the inside hollow. and I did drill it out first.

Really. I was half joking when I mentioned it. Did you use std knives, or something else? How did you hold it in place? I don't have a chuck to put something like that in, but I was thinking about picking something up just so I could turn simple aluminum items like this.

I built a house for this lady that is big into wood turning and ask her if her lathe could turn aluminum. She said lets see and we put a sample piece in the lathe and it worked fine. She had a large chuck that held the solid aluminum stock. I am not a wood turner and never used a lathe so I don't know the name of all the tools. I think I just used a chisel point tool about a 1/4 wide and used the bridge to balance the tool. I was given a 5min lesson and then she had to leave and said to lock up when I got done. About a 1:45 I had this cool looking part I did take it slow because I did not want to tear up her lathe.

Cool, good to know!

Karl, please turn me a plug! (NOT OUT OF ICE)
You da man'

Aluminum can be turned on a wood lathe with hand tools. A piece this size could be mounted on a bowl chuck with either small jaws or pin jaws. The chuck can grip the piece either by the outside (for boring out the center) or by the inside (for shaping the exterior. The cutting tools are all called "chisels", but there are many types. It sounds as if you used a "parting tool" or a very small scraper. I think I'd go for a scraper. You brace the chisel on the "tool rest", after adjusting the "banjo". You can also use a file for final shaping, and sandpaper to get a nice finish.

Now you know

Regards,
Eric

I think I'd try pouring some thickened epoxy into a mold. My epoxy is very old (who knew it had a shelf life).

Maybe I should just keep a few epoxy billets around.

Pete
The epoxy does not work the line just burns groves in it.

I knew that, it was a test. . .how did you know!