The 2Bsailing twitter account is very interesting : http://twitter.com/2Bsailing

2Bsailing has just twittered that :

"The Viper trapeze lines have been upgraded from wire to Dyneema and will come as standard on Vipers from now on."


oohhh, the use of new high tech lightweight materials on the Viper !

That is a sliding slope ! (joke, )

Note that neither the F18 class rules nor the Taipan class rules allow that.


But there is more interesting stuff.

2Bsailing will be present at the Carnac EUROCAT event this year. Mr. Bundock on the C2 F18 and Ms. Brouwer on a Viper F16.

All good news,

Wouter

Wire trap lines are such a pain in the rear.

What about windage and longevity?

What's the difference?

I did this to my blade five years ago...

I've been using 1/8" Robline, and its actually a bit thinner than that, more like 3/32". I bought some Amsteel that was supposed to be 1/8" and its really thick. Too thick to get through the trap handle without modification once spliced. You could use 1/16", but I'd keep an eye on them for wear. I had the same set on the FXone for 3 years, the only reason I replaced them was that I wanted to move them to a shackle and had to cut them off.



They're easy to make yourself. I thought splicing was a black art, turns out its super simple. They also don't kink, which drives me bonkers with wire. I tie mine off to the base of the mast with a bungee on the FXone, then just use ball ties to keep them from flying around. I wouldn't do that with wire as I don't want to scratch up my mast. Assuming your handles and thimbles are in good shape, you can re-use them when making new lines as well. If you make your own wire trap lines I guess you could do the same, bit I have no swaging tools.


I do want to try out rope for the shrouds as well. I currently strip the shrouds/forestay off the mast when trailering.

Good! You can splice me up a set!

You get the stuff, I can do that. Doesn't take long at all.
Robbie will show you how at the clinic if you ask.

It is unwise to use a header like that Wouter.

Just a bit of an "attention grabber"

Nothing serious.

Wouter

I love it when your wrong Wouter!

d. The trapeze lines may be rope or wire and shall have a minimum breaking strain of 320kg. Wire shall be a minimum of 2.0mm dia. and of 1x19 construction. Rope shall be a minimum of 2.5mm dia.

http://www.taipan.asn.au/taipan%20rules%20april%202009.doc

Hah !

So when did you guys hold the vote on that as I have the Taipan Class rules of several years ago and these still state that the trap-lines must be at least 2 mm wire.

Good to see the Taipan rules "updated" in this respect though.

Karl, I've been using dyneema trap lines ever since 1998 and haven't see one fail on me yet. Don't ever want wire traplines ever again.

For anybody who is interested I didn't splice my loops but just stitched them by hand using polyester thread (sailmaker). Works well.

Wouter

Wouter

Why stich when splicing takes seconds?

I have to ask: why?

I suppose I should buy some tools and practice this art.

don't need to buy tools. Use innards of a bic pen and practice on some 7/64 amsteel (which is perfect for trap lines). Go to samsonrope.com and look at their splicing instructions. Try it and you will see that paying postage to send the line to someone else so they can do it is just plain silly.
I have been tossing around making my own shrouds for my 31 (principles are all the same) but am a wee bit nervous

You don't need no tools really. You can do everything with a thin piece of wire folded in two. A small splicing needle helps sometimes but even the smallest one (4) is usually too big to splice 2.5 or 3mm diameter rope.

I still use the orginal Dyneema cordage (launched back in the late 1990's). The kind with a tough very finely braid outer core and an inner core of very loosely braided dyneema fibres. Not the D12 or whatever line with a nice braid.

Simply put the kind of line I use (very tough, UV/abbrasion resistant and inexpensive) is of the kind that simply can not be spliced. Was a good choice; I had line left over from 1998 when I first tried it on my Prindle 18 and the current lines have survived since 2004. Although my boat did stay in storage last season. Otherwise boat lives on the beach 6 months per year in sand, sun and salt.

In short, this type of line has proven itself and I'm not switching !

Wouter

any special recommendations for the thimble? Stainless, ceramic, etc.

It is a dark art, join a local coven.