You don't need to worry about the cuffs if you don't use the handle when you go out!

Mike

Its a 16mm Harken 404 block, SWL is 250-lbs, breaking load is 1200-lbs. I've been using the same set of trap lines for two seasons, what fails is where it connects to the sister clip and the stopper pinches it. That's where I used to luggage tag it on there and have since just started putting in a splice. There's a lot less exposed on the sister clip with just a eye splice there. So far its worked out I have to replace the return part about once a season.




They are stitched, I just do it real sneaky like.



(edit)- To each there own on the adjustable setup. I don't care for them, that's why I use the dogbones so you still have a hi/low setting.

I have Karl's rig and used it for two seasons now without incident. I do hope I have the 16mm blocks as I am over the 100KG limit.

I did have one line fray near the aluminum stopper because it gets dug into by the block and forms little saw-like grooves.

Karl, you'll need to show me the sneaky stitch as I went to spliced lines and they are not currently stiched.

Ha! How about when you come in? Going out, it is reflex especially in a race with wind where you are trapping right away after the tack. Last week, I was glad because I found myself hiked out but not hooked in while skippering. As crew, some will "trap out" and then clip in. I think there is footage from the Racine event illustrating that technique.

You got me there...I do have to use it when coming in.

Mike

When you are coming in the stopper is tight to the block or thimble. I'm not sure I've gotten a glove caught going in. It's always when I'm doing thqt in/out crap in lighter, almost trapping conditions.

For me the glove gets stuck in the up and down wind. You start to go in....pull on the handle, before you get all the way in, the wind builds you go out with hand still on the handle...glove gets caught.

I was thinking something like this.

I’m interested Pete. Until I got into the larger air I felt like wings were “sissy” but now realize that I would be able to get some ballast out toward the windward when trapping would mean having my feet washed off the side of the boat, leading to a certain capsize.

Also, after a capsize, the boat wouldn’t be able to be blown away from me, if it had a trampoline on the wings.

In DanTnz’s link, (http://www.hobie-cat.net/download/catalogue/gb/wings.pdf) there was a third option which wasn’t pictured. 3. Classic Wings
Similar to the Hobie 18 Magnum wings with near armchair
comfort, sitting high and dry or trapezing near outer space !
Wings are bolted onto the crossbars and can be easily
removed or folded up and out of the way. Maximum beam
120cm (48"), weight of kit 26.2kg (57.64lbs).

I’m wondering if the “bolted on to cross bars” could be modified to work our boats?

I suppose you could modify anything.

My thought was to have them slide into the cross bars.

I think of them as forming a sort of ****. I'm no longer willing to dangle my body off the boat unless there is someone designated to pick me up.

btw- what's with the epoxy bottoms?

Epoxy w/ S-glass bottoms came about because of the sailing conditions in New Mexico. The lake shores I mostly sail are a mix of mud and rocks, rocks of varying size and usually not too visible. There is a lake at the south end of the state which is mostly sandy but there are always the old campfire places which are generally a ring of rocks and because the lake levels are not stable the old fire pits become a nuisance. Also, coming ashore in 20 plus MPH wind single handed is a bit much for me at 150 lbs.

I don’t regret for a minute doing the modification because my hulls are so tough, easily tougher than H18s and in some instances tougher than H16s. I haven’t had to repair a single ding to the epoxy s-glass bottoms, all that happens is that the paint gets scraped off.

Individually, I think the hulls are a lot stouter, less twisting and bending.

I may try that.

Pepin taught me a neat trick. When coming to shore downwind, make a pass at the beach, when you're directly up wind of the place you want to land, come head to wind. Once the boat stops pull up the foils, ease the sheets and stand as far forward as possible to lift the transoms out of the water. You'll drift down to the spot you chose with perfect control and no drama.

I like the sounds of that, I’m going to give that a try.

That's basically what I do, but I don't ease the sheets. When they are tight the boat will weather vane and resist's rotating. I get all the way to the bridle and ride it in.

Karl, probably a dumb question, but does that mean you startle one of the hulls at the bridle?

Well, Karl is startling! I stand at he bridle and hold on to the forestay.

Oh cra*, even when i look up the words I get them wrong. I meant 'straddle'.

I stand. If you're sitting with a leg on both sides you are in a bit of an awkward position if you need to do something urgently.