it,s not the sailors that suck.........(sorry H16 fans. to easy)

Don't be hatin because you've been schooled while sailing one. It is a poor carpenter who blames his tools.

Imo, the "C", "B", and "A" fleets made Hobie a household word. A brilliant bit of marketing. The beer didn't hurt either.

Just mention the H16 and someone somewhere starts beating a shield!

Now get back to daggerboard wars... it was really stimulating zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Well, I would admit that foiling made the moths faster boats.

HEY! Don't knock it till you try it. I've been doing it for years.

I would also like to add its the poor carpenter who can't afford decent tools. getting my coat....

And you need four mold halves where-as a port and starboard straight boards can be made from the same two mold halves.

This is the funny part: "Come on out anyway and bring the boat, I have a feeling there might be some consolidation going on tomorrow. Based on the forecast it looks like a H16 will be the weapon of choice."

The boat is STILL a winner in the right conditions.

Yeah, and a loser in most other conditions

Can we please get beyond the H16 now ?

It isn't the Nacra 17 thread for nothing.

wouter

Woot, you're bashing my first love. Shame on you.

But yes, back to the N17 by all means.

I would buy a Hobie 16 Tatoo, over a H-16 w/spin. (assuming similar price range)
http://www.catsailor.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=234040#Post234040
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http://www.hobie-cat.net/hobie-cat/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=414%3Ahobietatoo-uk&catid=79%3Acatamarans&Itemid=576&lang=en
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You only need 2 mold halves. If you have a tapered tip you make the mold that much longer, put the tip on both ends , and cut off the "top" of opposing boards.Even works for asym. 1 mold/ 2 halves. If you're doing some kind of weird variable twist/ curve then you might need 4 halves.

hmmmm...right you are.

For the F20c, there is a definite "twist" to the boards. It's not a straight curve...

Intentional?

Yes its definitely intentional.

That's why I mentioned it. Somebody was trying that on an A also.
I also have a set of "curved" Nacra/Inter 20 boards that were most likely the result of a sailbox autoclave.

Not all curved foils were born equal.

Symetrical section curved foils with different angles of incidence along their span on the F20C, compared to asymetrical section curved foils with fixed angle of incidence along their span on the french maxitris.

It will take a while to fine tune curved foils in cats. And never forget the "S" foils that were barely tested.

Source? Some say the foil is symmetric, some say asymmetric on the F20c. What is on the new F17?

You can get by with 2 mold halves if twist is 0. Otherwise, forget about it. Doubt they are doing that in a production environment anyway, I am sure there are 4 mold halves at an easy $40k for the set.

If you have twist, which is one method of getting elliptical lift distribution, things get complicated really fast. For starters, simply modelling the foil in CAD becomes a nightmare-try 100+ hours of CAD work for the plug and then another 40 or so hours for the molds themselves.

I also realized the broken Nacra foils I own have Rohacell or similar high density foam cores. If the curved boards are similar, you would need to machine this core prior to putting it in the molds. That's probably $200 worth of machine time per core if you own the machine.

One way to look at this is by cost, and surely a foil that costs 30% more isn't going to make your boat 30% faster, hence its not worth it. IMO, $1300 is already a lot of money for a daggerboard, why not just pay the extra $400/board for a curved foil? Its a 3% increase in cost on a brand new F18, for example.