On N20's we always mounted a cleat on each side of the boom. The crew comes in to address something, and cleats the spin to the boom. Does his job, back on the wire, pops the sheet out.

Okay, so I think I've got a bit more information after taking the boat out today. The wind was 11+ knots, my crew was really struggling to sheet or even hold the spinnaker. I've gotta get this sorted out. I had to rush once we got the boat out of the water today. But I'll get out to the club one day this week and take off one of the hull mounted blocks. If I can't get it to ratchet I'll take it to the rigging shop and see if they can advise. Otherwise I'll just replace it. I want to thank everyone for all their help, and I have realized that the existing setup is definitely not working.

so, you check which ones are working each time you run the spin sheet through a block? Should be easy to sort out then (as well as if you've run any of them backwards)

Okay so - I think I've arrived at a solution. The (previously hull mounted) blocks that I thought were Harken were 40mm Ronstan units that definitely do not ratchet. I'm planning on moving the 57mm ratchamatics to the hull position and I've ordered a pair of 57mm carbo ratchamatics for the beam. This combination should make it much easier to sheet the spinnaker. I will report back on how well this works.

So today we were out in ~12knots with the spin and it was MUCH better. It was still a pain to sheet in under load (duh) but either of us could *hold* it with relative ease. I want to thank everyone here for all their assistance. The spinnaker has become a thing of pleasure (and power) again.

I think it is best to have both ratcheting blocks and one with a switch to turn on or off. In light breeze we turn one off but in anything above about 7 knots they are both one. This will help the crew immensely.

Dan

+1

+1

Hey Lee,

I bought an Infusion yesterday!

And putting a simple 2 to 1 on the leeward side in a distance race

+1 on this. I actually like having the ratchet on the forward block (one on the beam) in light air as I find it lets the spin go smoother during gybes.

Also, no one mentioned gloves. Make sure your crew is using some sort of hardware store glove like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-Tuff-W..._DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337aaeb7a2

I cut the thumb and first two finger tips off, helps me deal with shackles, knots etc. These kind of gloves have WAY more holding power then your standard over priced sailing glove.

many of us have cleats on our side stays specifically for cleating the spin. Esp when solo, it is nice to be able to give your hand a break, and some of us cleat, trap and just steer the boat instead of playing the spin.

We know it adds a small amount of risk, but it's easy to pop it out of the cleat to pay it out....

I fell asleep one time on a very light air trip home from way down the lake from home with everything cleated going down wind.

Pops was passed out and snoring while laying on a spin sheet going downwind in my N20 at a light air Hiram's once... circa 2003 +/-

Speaking of Pops, what ever happened to his protoge' Noodle?