I sent Mike a PM to see if he had any ideas on the best angle of attack.

After debating how to repair the soft sides opposite the centerboard I just attacked it with a multi tool. You can see the craks on th einterior surface. That portion of the hull is foam with a single fiberglass cloth layer.

This is the interior surface with the cracked fiberglass

Finally

Whoa! Your really getting right in there...I assume you know how to repair that? If not i have a good hobie pdf that outlines the process. Can you take a picture of the interior top lip where the tramp rail screws in? Im trying to determine how thick the aluminum plate is and how long it is. Also trying to figure out how deep the rivets go into it. Ive looked at it with a mirror but a pic to compare would be nice.

Hello Bob, Wondering if you still have the Smyth Pentex Main/battens? I'm looking for a replacement sail for my Reynolds 21. My email address is [email protected]. Hope to hear from you. thanks! Chris Park

Send the hobie repair file to see if I get new ideas. Ill send a pix of teh interior lip later today, its a kind of foam strip fiberglassed onto the deck lip area.

Bob me too. If I can ever put the boat back together

ferminj

Those cracks don’t look too good. It looks like it is on the panel that you cut out so the repair will easy to get at. The cracks have to go away you will need to grind the foam out clear through to the outer skin. Make sure you get all of the damaged foam removed then about ½ inch on each side of the crack taper the foam about a 30-degree angle outward towards the inner skin. Then I would lay-up two layers of unidirectional cloth about 6-8 oz weight tying the outside skin to the inside skin. You can fill the void with a bog made epoxy and a filler chopped glass and fill in the void level with the inner skin then lay-up one or two layer of over the patch area to pull it all together overlaying the area by several inches. Look on the outside of the hull my guess if you have kind of damage on the inside you have cracks on the outside also, or maybe it's just soft there.

You need to build a lip for the deck lid. That is going to take some creativity. Looking at the picture the flange needs to be curved in shape. I would make it out of solid glass and you need to try to tie into the top and bottom of the damaged area if you can. You’ll need to grind into the area near the opening to get a good bite into the old glass, perhaps 2 inches. Looking at Turbocat’s picture of the new laminates, I take it you are going to get new laminates? If not, even the old laminates I’d mold off of them. Look at the picture of the new decks as they sit sailing side down there is flange around the edge of the laminate. Use a good quality duct tape and tape off the edges both sides top and bottom. Cut some cardboard from a big box and extend the edge of the flange out several inches as needed to tie into the flat part of the deck, you will need to go further but that will be the next step. Tape the cardboard to the side of the deck that is the actual top as it sails. So as you are looking at the picture in the post you have the upside deck lid (tubes up), tape, the deck lid, tape, cardboard. If you make the cardboard flange you can actually fit it in the hull to check for fit. Once you have your cardboard flange taped down to the deck tape out the cardboard. Wax everything with mold wax it you have it if not a paste car wax. If needed you can make the flange in pieces. I’d lay-up a flange with enough thickness to equal what was there. Now that the flange is made you need to attach the flange to the hull. Make sure you use Acetone or the like to remove the wax and sand some to skuff it up. I like pop-rivets or drywall screws just a few to hold it in place and dry fit everything. Grind and fit as needed. Once everything fits all right, remove the pop-rivits or screws, and glass in the flange you made and overlap it some in the hull on the top and bottom.

There is one other way but it may be more work and that is to cut a few access holes in the inner side of the hull to work through and glass it up directly then patch the holes with flanges. I had to do that with my G-Cat because the deck is one piece. I have some pictures on my website of making a flange repair http://themanshed.net/archived-projects/g-cat-catamaran/?g2_page=2 and page 3.

West systems has CD called How - To Basic application, fiberglass/composite repair, and gelcoat blister repair using their products Catalog Number 002-898 it was free at West Marine for awhile when you purchased some West Systems Products. It is general information for all repair work.

Mike

Mike, thanks for the help. As it is, the decks do still mount on to the small remaining lip so I may be able to epoxy the hull to deck without building the lip all around.

For the cracks I started by removing the fiberglass cloth at the cracks around on in and then filling with thickenned epoxy, 1 in strip of fiberglass tape, then two and a 3 in over the previous two. Then two layers of cloth and it seems pretty sturdy.

Turbocat, pixs of the interior lip of the P19 with the tramp rivets and jibtrack screws visible.

so no aluminum in there? Thats pretty strange. On older Nacra 5.2's i think that foam piece was aluminum? I figured the rivets and screws would need more to bite into than foam covered in glass.

ferminj, Thanks to your pics we can now see the inner workings of the boat. This is the best P19 thread ive ever seen! With all the pics on this thread it should be easier for the next guy to fix his p19!

Shoot me your email and ill send that hobie repair article

No Al, I think my rivets were a bit loose and I'll have to either epoxy a washer under the accessible ones or fill the hole with epoxy and redrill. My ultimate goal would be a dry as dust hull. The seems sturdy at that part, what I dont comprehend is the 9 or 10 ft between the front xbeam and the bow tip with no bulkheads.

ferminj,

What year were your hulls made????

I believe they added some additional internal reinforcements after the first several years production ... maybe in the 88-89' timeframe???? But I'm not sure since I've never personally seen for myself the internal structure of the later produced boats ... only heard rumors ....

FYI: My boat was produced in 1986.

Harry
P19MX/Sail#86

The detail sanding is taking some time. Im trying to leave the original interior lip intact and in good shape so ive been taking it nice and slow. The foam should be here any day and the other materials are ready to go.

Ferminj,
If you look at your pics and my pics you can see that you have an additional bulkhead in the rear and the spacing is different from mine. Your hull must be a newer hull.

Ill have more pics up this weekend!

OK more pics will be uploaded tonight after work. Ive done alot in the last week but still have a bit to do before this old boat is ready. If all goes as planned this boat will be in the water next weekend.

I plan on rigging the boat back up and sailing it a couple times before the paint job. I want to sail it and evaluate the power before i run out and order a new main and jib. The chute got rigged last night and looks to be in the right position. I made up a line type bail rather than the normal wire bale so hopefully it will last and not pop the line right away.

Pics!

Ill get them up asap. This has been a crazy week and the boat has been put on the back burner. Im going to pick up a pair of hulls tonight as well as a mast so i will not have time for pics tonight. I will get some pics up this weekend for sure.

Ive been playing with ways to stiffen up the beams too so ill post up my ideas and see what you guys think the best angle of attack is. Beam in beam, cnc'd inner sleeves, tigging on a additional pice of aluminum to the top, etc.

I know the last post on this thread was back in 2010. I need some advice. TurboCat, I think we both live in the Houston area. I was sailing Galveston Bay today and it was blowing 20 with gusts and choppy. My 1987 Prindle 19 "I thought" was very solid. It looks like a new boat. The starboard bridle wire tang, the point where it attaches to the hull snapped off. Looks like metal fatigue. It didn't pull through, there is no glass damage to the hull. How do I make this repair? I'm guessing the deck is going to have to come off. I have no idea what this tang has "inside" the hull. I'm also thinking that if the starboard one failed then the port side should also be looked at and replaced. Can I find these parts and how do I make the repairs? Any help is much appreciated. I'm freaking out at the thought of taking it to a glass shop, looks like $$$$.

Thanks in advance

Morris
Seabrook, TX