Sam,

Definitely McLube the hoop. If you are going to re-rig anything, follow Mike and Tripp's setup here:

http://www.microwindracing.com/boat.html

Glad you are enjoying the boat, look forward to seeing you at some events in the future.

-Jeff

Yeah looking at Mike and Tripp's setup in detail its not super easy to follow, will need to look at it sober.

Lee, that race is on my list but probably not for next year. My number one focus will be Nationals, with potential for World's in 2013 or 2014. If I do the GT it will likely be on another boat as crew. I also don't know my offshore schedule right now, there was mention of transat's and other craziness.

Like an idiot, I dropped the shockcord for the downhaul inside the front crossbeam while stepping the mast Saturday. I have two questions:

1) How exactly is this system rigged and suggestions on how to retrieve the end of my shock chord that is missing? I had presumed this was a simple 1:1 shock chord but to my horror it appears to be a 4:1 system and isn't documented in the manual . I do have one end of the shock chord for what its worth.

2) How do others store the downhaul system on these boats? Taking the blocks off the mast seems time consuming to me. Put hooks on the front beam shock chord? Other ideas?

Thanks again for any help, will trade for beer,
Sam

First thing to remember is that Gremlins live inside the front beam... be very cautious

With that warning out of the way, the best way to get your bungee back is probably to take the endcaps off, then pull the bungee all the way through the beam to the opposite side from where you lost it. Then, attach it to a batten and feed it back through.

Inside your front beam you should have a double block on each end tied to vertical post inside the beam. There are three lines/bungees in there:

1. Jib sheet bungees (two)- dead end one end of bungee to vertical post, go through the beam to the bottom of the double block, then back through the beam and tie off to one end of jib sheet. Repeat for other side.

2. cunningham and bungee- We run a continuous downhaul that is lead out to the crew trapeze. each end of the cunningham line has a small eye splice that allows us to tie it together with opti sail tie, then untie to derig. I will try to make a picture of the layout... don't want to describe it.

3. Crew trap bungee- straight through beam

Here is the layout of the cunningham and jib sheet

Jeff,

Thank you for the slide and description, it is much appreciated.

I will make sure to wear thick leather gloves and stock up on Gremlin spray before entering the front beam.

Quick and dirty solution for the tack line issue, move the release line to the loaded side of tack cleat.

Isn't that where it's supposed to be anyway?

I'll double check the release line position, but I'm pretty sure it's on the loaded side of the cleat. I've never really liked this system, removed it on the N20. It does give you a few seconds of extra wire time on the way to th offset mark but I'm not convinced its worth the hassle of an extra shock chord and no visible tack line cleat. On the other hand it does tidy up the tramp which is good since this boat lacks some.

Jeff, I went into my main beam and re-rigged everything last night. Do you have line lengths for your setup? My setup has a single shock chord for the jib rigged the same way as the downhill shock chord. Both seem a little tight to me but the shock chords are new. Switching to a double shock chord for the jb would clean things up and make things feerier IMO.

Oh, I didn't have but a tiny gremlin in my beam, some clumps of something that didn't bite (yet).

Sam, Mike and Tripp's link above should have finished line lengths. We steal our setup shamelessly from them.

Jeff,

They don't list bungee lengths on their website. I'll just guess.

-Sam

Sam,
What Jeff didn't tell you and their website doesn't tell you is that the setup they have on their website isn't the actual system they are using. They can't share all their secrets, actually I think they are just too lazy to update it.
Mike & Tripp and most well tuned boats run a "continuous" downhaul. I say it in quotes because on the infusion you can't have a true continuous because the line has to come apart to come off the mast base.
Tripp sews the end of the downhaul together every time they sail. To de-rig they have a leader line.
On my old infusion I tapered the end of down then tied a small stopper knot (single half hitch) and tied them together and taped them up a bit then pulled them into the middle of the system inside the beam.
You'll need about 45' for this system.
To look how to run the shockcord for a continuous system look up the AHPC rigging manual, http://www.2bsailing.eu/downloads/c2-owners-manual.pdf
Page 6.2.1
The blocks the blue shockcord runs through are attached/tied to the posts in the beams and the blocks they are tied to are free running. The block outside the beam is obviously for tying it to the trapeze.
Keep in mind the C2 has a true continuous system with a splice inside, this is where you have to improvise to have stitching or something like i mentioned above.
-Todd

Todd,

I included a diagram of the continuous cunningham system on the previous page.... not hiding anything!

This year I rigged the 'crew trap cunningham' Jeff specified for both the trap *and* the jib, then spliced the jib sheet to make a continuous loop. Now I don't have to be very concerned with balancing the jib sheet length when we race. I recommended if you can sort out the beam gremlins accordingly. With the splice it's sort of a permanent, un-riggable feature, though.

Considering rigging a continuous downhaul line that can be de-rigged/re-rigged easily this year. I have a pretty simple idea that will prob work pretty nicely, but have not tried it out.

One other thing. Look to make sure that the main halyard hook at the top freely swivels. Many times, the loop on the inside of the track actually hits the back of the track. When it sticks, it can make raising and lowering the main a total PITA. Fix it at your own peril. In my case, I pried the loop a little bit with a screwdriver so that it freely swiveled

Thanks for all the help guys. I agree that no one is hiding anything, they're just at the bar rather than holding tape measures up to shock chords. Fortunately my beam didn't have any gremlins, other than the end cap screws aren't very cooperative. Everything was working fine over the weekend but I think my downhaul line won't be long enough to loop through the crew's trapeze. I'll take a look when I escape from work in daylight.

Fortunately my boat was mostly sailed in freshwater so the top halyard hook is corrosion free. Since I flipped the knot on the hook so it's facing forward, my issues have gone away, fingers crossed.

Well, I too have an Infusino now, a really nice 07 model.
Rereading helps me make it thru the Winer months.

I had to go out and clean 3" of snow off it yesterday!

I'll have to check my board trunk, jibing or not?

Thanks eveyone. And yes, I've sailed it 3 times before the witner, once in a regatta in Madison WI. Did OK in that one too. I too love the new boat. It feels/sails bigger than an 18ft boat.

Edit- I've got to get a new action photo of it this Spring, and get my old N6.0na off my Avatar.
** Speaking of my old 6.0- (The Millineum Falcon), IT LIVES! Theres a whole post on the TX City Dike Yacht Club (the name I made up btw to use as my 'team' on first entry into the GT300) by one of the Maudlin grandkids who has it now and is completely gong thru it, it's at Clear Lake at Maudlins!

I might start another thread on this but since its Infusion specific I'll leave it here...

Since my boat is in really good shape it probably makes sense to go down the path of making it a Mk1.9, not immediately but probably before Nationals. My biggest issue (besides the cost of new boards and sails) is I won't be able to use the old boards once I upgrade, using the stock Nacra upgrade kit. This is an issue as the boat will be sailed on the Chesapeake for training, which is notoriously shallow (someone runs aground on a N20 once a week). Any ideas on how to have a backwards compatible system? I'm thinking a fiberglass/carbon or maybe even vinyl shim that fits in from the top of the trunk and can be removed at will.

Sam, you do realize that daggerboards aren't in a fix position right? You can pull them up to a desired height? Sorry to be a wise butt but your just about as bad as the Sunfish sailor when I was working at LaserPerformance who asked me to make him a short daggerboard!
Uwpwind with long boards, you're pulling the boards up around 10-12 knots, they don't get in the way and you'd have to seriously screw up to get thrown forwards into your daggerboard upwind.
Downwind, in light air you're leaving them mostly down or pulling them up (very condition dependent) but even so, this doesn't change from the old boards.
Downwind in breeze you're pulling up your boards and if you stuff and you're not trapping you're might end up flying into the board, but this is fairly rare and again no different than if you have short boards.
Think you'll be okay?

hmmmm, that explains that vertical bruise I had running up my side ... Sort of daggarboard shaped, too...