It was a random thought...I have other ideas, but none get the traveler to the crew on the wire upwind when you need it.

I like the idea of a continuous traveler line on the trap wire. If the cleats were 2'ish in from the end of the beam it may be pretty controllable from sitting on the deck.

In the 5 seasons I've been racing f18s I've dropped the traveler once because of breeze. It's a complete last resort. I don't think it's worth spending the time to route to the traps.
Now distance racing it's dropped a bit more.

I want my skipper to have it available as peace of mind that she could dump it in an emergency. It seems that if it went directly to the trap that it could be a little cleaner during tacks.

I agree with Todd it is a last ditch resort as far as upwind in breeze is concerned. We play it a bit more downhill, but then the skipper is on the boat. It would be good to hear from some Nacra 17 teams on what they are doing with the traveler downwind double wired.

Bach,

This isn't trivial...I threw it out there to get the minds thinking, but in my head it isn't possible. The crew is on the helms wire downwind and I don't want anything attached to that wire to trip me up in my already clumsy jibes (just ask Keki Figueroa). I also don't want the helm to get tripped up on the traveler in the tacks.

What's the verdict of center sheeting off the boom?

I got out my spare 10:1 and reeved it to make she the sheet I have for it will be long enough for center sheeting. I also marked out where I thought my blocks on tramp and boom should go. I don't know when I will get around to removing the tramp and making the mod but I'm guessing it will not be until the summer. My next race is a short distance race, I'm thinking I am going to use the tried and true system for that and then play with center sheeting around some buoys later in the summer.

I wouldn't make a major change like this before an event...needs at least a weekend of practice me thinks.

I've been reading a few threads on here and elsewhere. Haven't found a great photo, but I'm thinking of running the terminated end of the sheet through another block on the bottom, to a turning block on the boom and forward to a head-banger style block sitting right on the boom that the crew can sheet from. The current lazy end of the sheet would stay rigged the way it normally is, for the helm downwind.

A few other notes:

1) AHPC uses a different style boom for mid or center sheeting (beefier), 50mm diameter x 1.6mm wall thickness. According to wouter anyway, so that data may be incorrect.

2) Some teams have an additional block to create a 2:1 floating purchase between the back of the boom and center of the boom. Your purchase is increased but you are limited in the amount of sheeting you can do from the mid point

3) Darren Bundock has a normal aft 10:1 purchase system on his C2 used at Catacup. Keep it simple stupid.

I'll have pics and measurements of my setup posted on Friday.

One other advantage I thought of was the more perpendicular pull of the sheet from the middle of the tramp would allow a better trapping/hiking angle. Its not just easier, but should also get your CG further out.

Jeff,

Thanks Jeff! That's one of the bigger advantages I can see in breeze. I suspect more boats aren't rigged this way because the crew is variable. With my setup idea, it shouldn't matter too much, as the skipper can still drive it from the back like they do already.

-Sam

As promised here are the pics. Not saying this setup is right, wrong, or optimal. Simply what I got when I bought the boat. I assume it is representative of what AHPC was selling as an option at the time (circa 2010). I have higher resolution versions of the pics if needed.

Overview


Measurement from aft edge of front beam to center of main block eyestrap 42 ¼" = ~1.073m


Measurement from aft end of boom to turning block 50 ½" = ~1.283m (sorry for the parallax)


Measurement from fore end of boom to turning block 40 ¼" = ~1.022m Note that the turning block straps had apparently been moved foreword approx 3 ½" from their original location. PO never mentioned why.


Tramp reinforcement (viewed from under the tramp) No idea what the second grommet is for behind the main block.

Thanks Jeff,

That is a little farther back than I was imagining. If it was further forward to be equal with that block on the retrieval line, do you see it as a problem with running other things near the front of the boat?

If it were further forward, it might require the crew to cross behind it, crowding the back half of the tramp. Otherwise it shouldn't be an issue as long as the spin sheets are properly routed/managed.

Is there a reason you cant have a turning block and cleat on the boom versus having it on the tramp. I am thinking a turning block and cleat like we use on the spin halyard.

you could potentially be pulling the boom over the windward side of the boat in light to medium weather.

I think 49'ers and other boats have done it that way for ages

true, but the 49'er has their main sheet setup with a V so that it can't be pulled to windward.

its probably wouldn't happen but still...

Jeff,

Got my tramp modded and ordering the blocks finally.

I have a 10:1 system that I was basically planning to run upside down with the cleat removed of course. Do you see a reason why I would need the additional single block at the rear of the boom?

Where is the ratchet in your system? My 10:1 stack is not equipped with one. debating on one on the boom or the tramp.

The single block aligns to the loads better cutting down wear and friction. You can get close to fixing the issue by locking the top block at 90 degrees to the boom and/or leaving the guides from the cleat in place as it will force the top block into alignment.

You still want all of your purchase at the back of the boat don't you, and not pulling on the middle of the boom?

I have a Ronstan auto-ratchet RF56121 on the tramp. Its mounted upside down relative to the pic on the link here: http://www.ronstan.com/marine/product.asp?ProdNo=RF56121