Rolf,
I forgot to take before pics. There is around 64 hours work in each one.
I hope to get back to the boat now.

I'm finally back working on the F85.
After some laminating I managed to cut out the centre of the forward "Central Mounting Module" today.
At last I can work in the front section of the main hull without climbing in through the forward hatch.

Cutting out the centre of the CMM just leads to more work in that area. But I don't have to climb in the fwd hatch anymore to do it now. The pics will tell the story.






It turns out the section I cut out of the CMM was big enough to make the cover panels.

Still more work in this area.
Formwork is required to build a glass flange.


The Glass flange is created so Uni can be laminated over it.


In this case I used Uni Carbon over the flange.
This pretty much concludes work in this area for a while.
I have made 4 little cubbie holes, two either side. So with a crew of 4 each person has a place for valuables while sailing
or other items like a torch that one may want to keep at hand while cruising with my better half.

I'm currently working on the outside of the main hull.
Starting at the bow I installed the carbon socket for the spinnaker pole and fore stay.



Main the anchor well hatch rim and glassed it to the top of the deck with some 400gm B/D.



Then I did the fairing needed for the the fwd hatch.

The glass tube to take the forward net has been glued and glassed to the foredeck. I have cut a slot thru the hull under the tube for the fwd 200mm. This allowed me to take 2 layers of 400gm glass over the top of the deck around the tube and to the under side of the deck. Now any load will be transferred to the deck and not trying to delaminate the hull. The slot was filled and glassed over on the inside of the anchor well and then also covered in 2 layers of glass as the tube was glass over it's full length. I have designed a fitting that will insert in the glass tube to take the dyneema line the fwd net will be laced to hence the need to strengthen the end section of the tube.





I have made up a fairing for the fwd flat edge of the fwd cmm.
This will be faired into the hull further when the mainhull is faired for painting later.

I had some laminating to do between the rear beam mount (CMM) and the **** floor.
Normally this is probably just done by kneeling down in the ****.
A few days earlier I came off my bike again.
At least I didn't break my collar bone this time, but with cracked ribs and no skin on both my knees kneeling
to do it this way would be an adventure in pain that I could do without.
The boat was winched onto its side enabling me to do the work sitting on a chair next to it.

I had some laminating to do around the main beam bulkhead on the underside of the cabin roof.
Mark came around to help roll the hull over for this. One person winding a winch out and one winding a winch in and hey presto its done.
I supported the hull with a couple of out of date gas bottles under the main beam pads and a plank and ladders at the rear.
Then I could just roll under on an office chair and do the work while seated through the forward hatch. Very easy and comfortable.
I think I'll do this when it comes to painting the underside of the cabin roof too.
Here are some pics of the setup.

It has been around 6 weeks since my last update.

In the interim I have managed to get a few things done.

I've made the carbon beam for the traveler.
I've installed it just behind the CMM.



Quite a bit of thought went into its positioning as a part of how the carbon mast and boom are going to work.
I finally decided against roller furling. (BTW:-I hope to take delivery of the carbon mast in a couple of weeks.)

I had already purchased the traveler when a local chandlery was going bust.
The only problem being I couldn't source M6 bolts long enough to attach it to the carbon beam.
Instead I bought the longest M6 countersunk bolts that I could source and some M10 hex head bolts.
I put the M10 in the lathe , cut the treads off and bored a hole right through them and tapped an
M6 thread. I get around 20mm of thread engagement which is more than enough.



I've made the seat side panels and like the carbon traveller beam and most other things all under a vacuum.

I kept the cut outs in the side panels and made doors. I was quite surprised at how heavy
the stainless hinges are for 6 doors. I think I'll replace the stainless hinges for white plastic ones that I have
managed to source locally. If I decide I don't like the doors I will just take them off.

I have installed the port seat side panels and was taping in the stbd side earlier today.



I looked at sourcing the watertight hatches required to house the emergency gear, EPIRB flares etc but
couldn't source the ones I wanted in the size I wanted so I made my own.
Here is a pic of the hatch to be accessed from inside the ****.


Below is the hatch that would be accessed from the nets if the boat has flipped.



Once the seals have been installed they will both be perfectly flush so I'll paint the cylinder the "T"
handle is in red for contrast so it can be easily found.

Over the next couple of days I hope to flip the main hull upside down and elevate it with the winch system
sufficiently that I can either sit or stand beneath and start the internal taping of the installed seat panels.

Hi Phil
I'm assuming you bought your mast from C Tech in NZ. I've been in touch with them. I'd be interested to know what you think when it arrives. Racing Mail OrderBride to Alaska this June in the R2AK. She rows really well!
Wayne

Wayne,
That is correct.
It is scheduled to be shipped tomorrow so I would think that I'd have it within the next couple of weeks.

Wayne just checking out that R2AK ...wow awesome idea. That's another one for my bucket list like the everglades challenge.
Is a F85 eligable? would have thought it would be just small boats...not read the SA's yet.

I'm currently making the daggerboard case. This should have been done and installed before the main hull halves were joined
but I wanted to experiment with the cabin space before committing to the dagger board.
Having mocked up the inside with both the C/B and D/B I have decided the space actually feels more open with the D/B.
Go figure as I really didn't think this would be the outcome.

So I have made the D/B mould and made both sides. Weighing all that went in and out I got a 43% resin content.
The weight of the stbd side is 3.8kg and the port side came out at 4.2kg.
The port side is a little heavier because of the extra glass that goes into it to reinforce the channel for the pull up/down lines.
Below are pics of the port side just before and just after demoulding.

Another piece of the puzzle arrived today.
Mast , carbon with all carbon fittings and 5 constrictor clutches fitted for all 5 halyards.
Set up so each halyard can go to either cabin top winch once I add 4 more turning blocks on the mast base.




The sheaves are already fitted for the 2:1 halyards.
The mast base is built into the mast with a socket to take the gin pole out front for raising and rotation and raising web out back.
Just need to add the halyards and stays.
It is just over 12.6 metres long and weighs 57.01kg. Once the synthetic stays are added I expect it to be still under 60kg. I think that is very good going for a mast of that length. I asked for hi mod carbon in the side walls which should result in the mast being 35% stiffer than Farrier's minimum specs, at least through the minor axis. Hopefully improving what I see as one of the main weaknesses of a wing mast. Time will tell.

Yup F85 is eligible and we are in. No limits on boat size or type just no motor at all. I am working on the rowing systems but as it is with one simple station in the **** I can maintain 2.5 kts rowing alone. I am putting a sweep on each float and am convinced that 3.5 /4 will be realistic. We will be sailing with three crew. Wish I had your rig!

Just working on some more pieces to the puzzle.

A pic that shows just how long the Dagger board is. Makes me look short but I'm just 1/2 inch under 6ft.
These look like great boards, many thanks to help from Mark H and his CNC work.

They are nice looking boards, What happened to the 6ft swim suit model, That i hired to hold them for you ?
Is your email working i haven't heard from you for a while

Richard

Hi Phil have just sent email,let me know if you get it.