Looks awesome. How does the water drain away from the hull once situated on the cradle?

Jay , good question.
The plan is to have a layer of 3/4 inch rubber 8 inches wide down the centre of the cradle with the rubber and the rest of the cradle covered in marine carpet. Either side of the rubber will be 3/8 inch drain holes every 8 inches.
I do have concerns about the hull discolouring because of water trapped in the carpet and hopefully this will do the trick.

Unable to get much done over the last 5 weeks too busy working on a house building project but still I have a couple of pics below.
To ensure the thickness of the lining of the cradle did not cause a problem I have left some space for expansion.
Once the hull is in it with the lining these gaps will be filled and glassed in place.



The cradle only needed one more layer of triaxial for it to become bullet proof. As I peel plied the glass this took me around 8 hours to laminate. I was happy for that to be behind me.

Before putting the right way up for the rest of the project I thought it prudent to double check that the D/B still fitted without problm. Good thing because I found that fairing compound had gone into the case right at D/B the trailing edge. IT was easy to remove in this position and now the D/B is running just right.



I used 1/2 inch thick felt to temporarily line the cradle just because I had it available. It will eventually be used to make cases for the rudder and D/B.




Once in the cradle Mark came around with some templates he cut for me on his CNC machine when he cut my windows. The templates were to make a 6mm rebate so the windows will be flush when fitted. I made the cabin side 16mm thick to allow for this. I'll vacuum 3 layers of 200gm glass around the edge before the hole for the window is cut.

Those windows will look amazing! I was surprised to see the deck un-painted with the hull looking completely finished. It much be easy for you to "switch gears" in your shop. I have to completely finish the work and fairing before making a large transformation of the shop to a paint booth.

F-25c,
For me this approach should be the easiest way and give me the best result. A simple plastic shirt taped just under the gunwale net tube should eliminate any over spray.
The top is even more straight and fair than the hull so I just need to fair in the taping. (the way I do it is very quick and easy.)
Once the shop is tidy changing it into a spray booth takes around 5 mins.

This might work for me too. How do you vent out the overspray? I have a HVLP turbine system but still get some mist in the air if I don't have air flow. I can still see the part but not as well as I'd like without airflow. I have a positive air mask. How will you paint the deck, hang sheeting from above, turn upside down, or move the boat outside?

F-25c,
I'll just tell you what I did and see if it is of any use.
One end on the shop is open. I set the boat upside down supported by bricks under the beam landings so I could take down my winching system as it would get in the way.
I put planks on milk creates down both sides of the hull. This enabled me reach far enough to spray from the keel to the waterline on each side.
I did 3 passes. Alternating from side to side, always spraying from the back of the shop to 7ft x 8ft opening.
Then I took the planks away and 3 passes from the gunwale to the waterline. Same again. A friend came around and mixed while I sprayed in an effort to keep a wet edge. I expected to get over spray from the waterline to the keel but that didn't happen. The 2 pack paint I'm using stayed wet enough to absorb the over spray.
I had a 13cfm compressor driving my positive pressure full face mask and a 15cfm on the HPLV gun. When I undercoated I only used the 13cfm on both and I had to stop intermittently for the compressor to catch up.

I also have a very large fan that I could have used to help vent the shop had it been necessary.

That worked for me.
Hope it helps.

If you have too much mist in the air look at you pressure at the gun. Too much could do that. I did not have that problem. Overspray on the hull now will be avoided by taping plastic sheeting from just under the gunwale down to the cradle the hull is in. I have a heap of cheap plastic sheeting left over from when I made the cradle and it will only take a couple mins to tape in place.
This has all worked great for me with the paint I have chosen to use.

Thanks for the write up. Thats a nice looking cradle.

Another step closer.
I still have to paint on the non skid. I'm going to use light grey Kiwi Grip. Then I can pernamently bolt on the fittings.

I pulled the floats out from under the front verandah and started rubbing off the guide coat to ready them for top coating.
I top coated the beams yesterday, they are in the background.
Not long now and should start putting the pieces together.

Top coated the floats a couple days back.



Then took the cradle out and glued in foam to give the main hull a soft ride.



And last thing today managed to paint the non kid onto the main hull.

Come on Phill hurry up and post some pics of the luverly windows in the sunshine.

Was looking good last night in the car park.

Looking good

Hey Phill you know what would look really good?.....

Black folding struts! ;P

OK only 6 more I told you so's to go

The floats are now on. Just need the rain to stop so the taping and fairing can be finished.

Looks good Phil.
It should win a few looks good in the carpark awards
Richard

Richard,
Thanks.

Glass taping the front beam on the inside is a real challenge as the foil cases are in the way.
A friend offerred to climb inside the float and work around the foil case to do the job.
That was a good thing because I just don't bend like that anymore. Here is a couple of pics.