Sorry. I meant, what is a paddle tire?

It is generally a good idea to avoid lubrication in beach wheel bearings. It will attaract sand and wear down the bearing surface quicker. Plus, it would be just one more thing to have to maintain.

These are paddle tires. They are a "get stuck quik or go" tire for dune running.

Check with ATV wheel suppliers. The early Honda ATC three wheelers used a completely rubber rear tire. No wheel. The tire had a steel tube that was vulcianized to the tire. If you've ever seen a original set of Cat Trax you'll know what I'm talking about. All Cat Trax did was find the right size alum. axle,add the right dia. delrin bearings, washers on the ends to hold the delrin in place.

The problem with this system was the steel tube, add salt water and.....

As
it turned out Honda's idea wasn't that good and they stopped using that tire. I don't know who was making that tire but they stopped making it cause there was no demand for it. However people that had these bikes needed some way to put tires on their bikes so someone came out with the wheel you see on the new style Cat Trax.

So look at atv suppliers. You might even check with a Honda dealer. If it's not a Honda part you might learn where they would order it from.

Lots of advice on wheels and such here, but has anyone found a source for plastic (4-bolt) hubs to attach to the wheel/rims? This would be an alternative to making them from scratch. Also, such a product removes the difficulty (and high costs) of buying specialized wheels - making almost any low-cost turf tire suitable for Hometrax.

Dave

I do have a full machine shop at my disposal. What do people think these plastic hubs are worth? I could be persuaded to manufacture these if I can cover my costs.

Ahh...the good old 55 gallon detergent drum

Sorry for hijacking the hub thread Dave.

Taht looks great! how is it in the really soft sand? Does the rigidity of the drum impede your progress on soft sand or with that much surface area, are able to ride above the sand? I have your standard off the shelf Cat Trax which I keep the air fairly low, expanding the track surface area, which assists me in the soft. Just wondering?

Taht looks great! how is it in the really soft sand? Does the rigidity of the drum impede your progress on soft sand or with that much surface area, are able to ride above the sand? I have your standard off the shelf Cat Trax which I keep the air fairly low, expanding the track surface area, which assists me in the soft. Just wondering?

Taht looks great! how is it in the really soft sand? Does the rigidity of the drum impede your progress on soft sand or with that much surface area, are able to ride above the sand? I have your standard off the shelf Cat Trax which I keep the air fairly low, expanding the track surface area, which assists me in the soft. Just wondering?

CaptJulian, Sand is not a commodity in these parts, so we have little to no experience with it, which I know is bugging the hell out of all the beach launchers.

Captain Dave, One last shot and then I'm done. I say, "Hubs?...we don't need no stinking Hubs!" Not unless your planning on speeds in excess of 20 mph. How about using schedule 80 PVC between the wheels and PVC connectors (2 1/2" electrical size will fit your wheels) and a length of galvanized conduit inside, pinned in place with S/S bolts. With a little paint or inhibitor here and there will be relatively rust free.

I think I know why Capt Dave wants to use the hubs. He would like to be able to use wheels that are made for hubs. Instead of hubs maybe we should call them adaptors? Am I getting your messge Dave?

Is Captain Julian in Massachusettes? If so, it's about time you got on this forum

You`ve got it now Nick. But, hubs are hubs. Rims and wheels are a separate deal. The proper name for what I need is "hub" - not to be confused with a rim or a wheel. Any search for a "hub" will illustrate what I need - only I want it in plastic. Steel hubs are heavy, made of metal and have metal bearings. Even a cheap metal hub is made to support many, many hundreds of pounds more than a set of catrax requires - not to mention the corrosion factor.




Flatlander,

You are correct about the hubs regarding the speed issue. However, I already have some nice wheels (which I want to use) and what I need is a 4-bolt hub to attach my wheels (with 4-bolt rims) to an appropriate axle. I do not believe your design will allow a 4-bolt rim to be secured to an axle. Plus, it all sounds a little heavier than necessary. I will be using aluminum for my axle.




Dave

Dave,

I already have a simple plastic hub design that will be easy to install on an aluminum hollow shaft or pipe. If you are interested send me a PM and maybe we can work something out. I would need some dimentions but it could be done fairly easily.

Here is another option for all of you Do It Yourselfers.
web page

And here's another homemade idea.

OK, so the previous photo is really small. Let's try this one.

The nice thing about the wheel I'm talking about is, it is the wheel and the hub complete with bearing surface. Alloy, no rust.

This article will explain how to make the wheels. VERY simple, don't need fancy hubs. They work great, just don't drill the extra holes. Use some silicone around washers and connectors. If you have questions call me.


http://www.geocities.com/mec_coleman/tip13.htm

Doug Snell
281-326-2702
dsnell4@houston.rr.com

I contacted the owner of the funky beach wheel design in the photos I posted earlier and he was happy to share his ideas with us.

1. Holes are drilled at either end of the drum for the pole.

2. Cut circular pieces of the plywood with holes in them as well. This is for the added support on the drum.

3. Slip the pole through the drum and center it.

4. Take a 4" long piece of PVC pipe or fitting and slip it over the pole. Slide it down the pole till it has a 1/4" gap between the PVC and the drum. Screw the PVC to the pole with four screws.

5. Repeat the last step for the other side.

6. Now set your Hobie on the pole and drill two holes - one at each pole end outside of where the hobie is sitting. This is for the rope that will be attached and then looped over the hulls and tied back to the bar, securing the Hobie to the dolly.

7. Lift the hobie and off it will go. For added weight on the soft sand add water to the barrel. Not a lot but enough that the barrel will roll instead of sliding and becoming a plow.