I bought a '91 P19MX last week, and I'm in the process of cleaning it up and trying to set it up according to all the great info from previous posts (mast rake, prebend, etc.) but I've run into a problem setting the rudder rake. All the directions I've found recommend running a straight edge along the transom and down the rudder blade, and measuring how far the blade extends in front of the straight edge. My transoms are slightly concave, and therefore the placement of the straightedge along the curve changes its position relative to the blade. Do you place the straightedge at the top and bottom points of the transom to do this measurement? And because the leading edge of the blades is also curved, where do you do this measuring? At the point where it sticks furthest forward of the straightedge, or at some other point further down? (I have the round-tipped,"long" rudders.) I hope I've explained this clearly. The Prindle manual shows this measurement being done on a P18, with straight transoms, and was of little use.

I have a P19 and the transom is fairly flat, similar to what is shown on the manual. I thought both the P19 and the MX were the same only differing in the suit of sails.

I feel your pain. The newer version of the rudders are really nice. However, their correct adjustment isn't intuitive. Lay your straight edge along your transom so that it contacts the upper and lower portions. You want your straight edge to extend down about 24". With your rudders locked in place you want to measure down 18" from the base of your transom.From this point the leading edge of your rudder should be 7/8" aft of your straight edge. This is only a starting point. Assuming you have the proper mast rake-sail your boat upwind with the sails sheeted in tight and feel the helm. You should only feel a slight tug on the tiller (weather helm). When you get everything correct to this point you need to take your boat out in 15-20 knots of breeze on a reach. This speed will put a lot of pressure on your rudders. They may kick up at this point making steering difficult. Assuming your springs and pulleys are all working correctly-you'll need to shorten the rudder lock bolt a turn or two. Another way to determine the resistance needed to kick up the rudders is to kick at the bottom of the rudders with your foot when the boat is in shallow water. They should give a reasonable amount of resistance. In addition;when your boat is on dry land the rudders should just fall under their own weight when the line that holds the rudder up in place is released. You can adjust this by tightening the bolt that allows the rudder to pivot (plastic shims help). If you do all this you will be rewarded with a well handling P19. Prindle rudders are still a pain in the neck to deal with. Good luck.

Thanks, Greg. THIS is information I can use. I've already replaced both lock bolts and used the plastic shims to take up the slop in the castings. The rudders seem to lock down nice and snug, requiring a significant tug at their tips to get them to release. I like your technique for checking the weather helm - 15 to 20 knots on a reach should be a blast. Thanks again.
Peter