Rolf/Guys:

This may be a dumb idea, but why not try centering the traveler and tying a piece of bungee cord to each side from the side of each crossbar with equal tension. When you move the traveler to each side one tension would get greater and other loose. When tension is removed it should center the traveler?

Just a thought.

Doug

Thanks for the suggestion Doug. The problem we had on our boat was getting the traveller to travel out from the center, not centering it. A straight track and a tight mainsheet made it even harder.
I think you will be hard pressed in devising a bungee setup to help with this, Newtons laws beeing what they are <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
My traveller car did not have proper bearings (neither ball or pin/needle bearings) in the rollers. I tought of trying to find some suitable bearings, but never did. Might have been a tough upgrade anyway.. Along those lines. A relative who is a mechanic by profession claimed that regular closed stainless steel bearings should be able to survive seawater. I disagreed, claiming that regular steel would corrode quickly. Opinions?

Greg, looks like you don't have the steel rollers. I had the polymer rollers originally and they constantly stuck. When I replaced my traveller with the steel rollers, I also sanded out the nicks in the track with crocus cloth and have not had a problem since. There should also be flat head slotted screws on the inside of the beam allowing the traveller to freely pass over. I saved my old traveler with the intention of drilling out the posts and mounting new steel rollers to use as a backup, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

Rolf:

What about putting check blocks at the corners and using a line through a cleat kind to like we use to do with the traveler jib cars on the old Hobie 16's in the 80's? Know what I mean?

Doug

I know what you mean. My original P16 had the plastic wheels which I replaced. My P19 came with the newer steel wheels. The problem is still the quick release. I can center it again under load by using my legs from the wire. However, it's much harder to ease it out quickly from the wire to avoid a flip or cartwheel. I mentioned this to Jay Glaser once and he agreed and said that at least everyone else on a P19 was having the same problem. My problem is that not many other people sail P19's in the northeast anymore. I'll try to get a hold of that crocus cloth. Until then I'm hoping Santa brings me that F18 I deserve.

I follow you now Greg. It certainly doesn't release as quickly as the mainsheet. Nobody anywhere hardly sails P-19s anymore but where I often sail, I'd tear a dagger board boat apart.

My new and hot discovery for sheets is Salsa. I have found this stuff is awesome..,
light weight;
very, very easy on the hands
never knots, no matter what
plays beautifully through the blocks
very low or no stretch
and actually has no core

On the F16 I am using 1/4" and is not a problem on the hands at all, but it does feed out faster and easier to cleat and uncleat. I would never go higher than 5/16"
Also using the 1/4" line on the Wave with a 4:1 purchase -- still a piece of cake.

Check it out at http://store.catsailor.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=jnqmmqmml0

Also, I use the Ratchamatic anywhere I can use one.
Good luck,
Rick

On the spi' sheet do you use two each side? or just 1 per side?