Dear Dave,

that would be really very helpful!

By the way, where did you get them from? I am familiar with some people keeping a damaged hull in storage after replacement with a new one, but this bow story seems to be a more special one! ;-)

Anyhow, if you can get an idea about the construction of the tangs and bulkhead, would really be great.

If any other SC20 sailor is reading this thread, let me know if anyone else noticed similar problems or is also sailing with loose tangs since years :-)

I bought a very badly damaged 20, that had both hulls split lengthwise, supposedly on the trailer. I never did figure out how so much damage could have occurred. I just bought it for parts, mast, rigging, rudders and trl. About 6' of each bow was intact, so I just cut them off with a sabre saw. Keep reminding me, I'd already forgotten my offer. It's dark when I leave in the morning for work, and when I get home. That leaves the weekends when I'm usually off to the backcountry if conditions permit.

dave 509 276 6355 lightguyz@hotmail.com

dave, still snow on the bows? :-)

would really appreciate if you could find out what the meaning in terms of construction principle is of

"The older SC20's had a vertical transverse bulkhead that supports the forestay tangs."

Thanks Dirk

Dirk,
I stuck my head in there but can see anything useful. There's a big block of foam just aft of the tang (and bulkhead?) that obscures everything. Sorry!
I bought a badly damaged 20 that had numerous longitudinal cracks that the previous owner said were caused during trailering (hard to picture). Paid $400 and got a great mast, rudders and a Trailex alum trl I sold to a guy in Socal for $450. And two 6' bow sections.
I've had the plate around the tang come loose, but the tangs themselves have always seemed solid.

dave

dear dave,

thanks for your efforts anyhow!

by the way, did you ever lay your boat on the side (capsize) on the beach/land ? its an easy issue with an F18 or F20 but wondering a little by the width and weight of the SC20... have to replace the spin halyard block and I am to lazy to lower the mast... ;-)

done without problems.

It had been a while but things are moving fast now.
New shaping took place the last three days and while I am typing the fibreglass work is moving along.

Thanks again to everyone who shared his knowledge. It did feed the motivation :-)

Photoshop is something, getting there is everything... ;-)

You are a brave man Dirk. Looking very much forward to hearing how this change the boats characteristica.

Dirk:

That is looking good. I was wondering where you were with it.

Later,
Dan

Dirk,

Nice going. You've come a long way to the present. good Luck.

tom

Glassfibre work is also mostly done. Soon the hulls will get new gelcoat finish. This will surely add some noticeable weight (maybe up to 10kg/hull) so I wonder if it makes sense to try to sand as much as possible from the old gelcoat away to save weight? any comments?

it's interesting how a nose changes a boat... the old lady (born 1980) doesn't feel that old any more :-)

Hey Dirk, that looks great!

Talk to jake about re-gelcoating. He did the blue N20 with a new shot of Gelcoat. He can probably give you a good indication of how much weight it added.

have you considered a two-pack polyurethane paint job instead of gelcoat?

paint the boat. dont try to re gel it.

Use Duratech with the gel coat and it will turn out super..

Regards,
Bob

I have that on my boat and its holds up extrememly well. A few times a year my boat gets sandblasted when its in its beach side paarking, the aluminium will sometimes get discoloured by this but the paint job stayed on beautifully.

I would serious consider the two-pack polyurethane paint job very seriously for the new SC20 you have Dirk.

Wouter

I would paint it with a two-pack polyurethane, not gelcoat.

Agreed - paint it.

the point is I do not have mucht trust into the paint which is available here. I sailed a couple of painted boats and got a few of them professional repainted with the right paints, still none of them was as durable as gelcoat...

in contrast they do a perfect gelcoat job over here. the redid a couple of our daggerboards and they turn out like new. we gave them a old 470 and they redid the whole deck and bottom and it also looks like a new boat. so I know with gelcoat I know what I get. the only worry ist the weight penalty. the boatsyard estimated 12 kg each hull...
but I assume that is the quantity they need but a significant part of it will be lost when it dried? can anyone comment on this?

jake, maugan mentioned you did it before?