Maugan,

Need a source of oakum ply that will ship. Seems most, if not all, wooden boat building suppliers are on the coasts. Have you done any sourcing yet yourself?

You may want to contact one of the kit kayak companies that buy in huge volume, they might be able to give you the name of a good supplier. Do you think this hull would be built using the sticth and glue method that the kayak kits use? It's supposed to be very easy but I have not tried it yet. Maybe, once the design is finalized, we could get one of the large kit kayak companies to put together a hull kit with all the wood and precut panels? http://www.clcboats.com/boats/sharpie.php

For Okoume or Merranti
try Boulter Plywood in Mass. they ship country wide and stock everything plywood. Wonderfull to deal with

http://www.boulterplywood.com/

4x8 3 mm is 39$ each, 4 mm = 45$

I could see me building one of these suckers for screwing around on a local lake

Eric

Thank you Eric,

By far these are the most reasonable suppliers.

I noticed for an additional $59 they will scarf two sheets to make one 4' x 16'. Shipping penalty for this oversize length would be an additional $30.

Any merit to 4' x 16' stock?

At least if you build Blade F16 you don't need to do that yourself <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Seriously the bulkheads could be done from the 4' and deck from side of the panel if designed carefully. This way it should be just plotting and then cutting thus saving the trouble of joining the panels.

--
Valtteri

Good source for cheap fixed or telescoping tiller extensions is to use a fixed or telescoping paint roller handle - available at home centers in a variety of lengths/materials. Not very bling, but certainly up to the needs for this boat.

The 5-chined wave-piercer will be "stitch and glue" for certain if building only 1 boat.

What I'm trying to do it design it in such way that only 3 joints need to be stitched-and-glued with the remaining 2 joint being a simple screw and glue after routing the joint rod to the right angle.

And if more then one boat is made by a builing group a joint rod can be made for all joints allow all additional hulls to be simply "screw and glue". This should save time. Another idea I have it to have one guy build a prototype and make an angle tool of this hull for all joints and have him sell routed joints rods for all chines to other builders. This would allow all other builders to save time and would recoperate the cost of the prototype. Definately a win-win situation.

I hope this answers your question, Tim.




That is an excellent idea Tim.

The already offer another multihull, the "Pacific Proa" http://www.clcboats.com/boats/pacificproa.php

I think I will contact them after the design is finished and sell these plans through them.


Wouter

Of course you can have them make the scarf but not glue it together yet.

That additional saves shipping charges and you only need to spend a little time glueing the platse together yourself.

Also less risk of damage during transport ? Afterall a 6 x 2 foot package is alot easir to handle then a 12 x 2 foot package.

Wouter

Good idea,

Noted, thanks.

Wouter

You got that right, I would personally LOVE to have one of these F12's for the days and evenings when I don't have enough time to rig the F16. In my case that would be most weekday evenings during summer.

I had been thinking about buying myself on old laser 1 dinghy but experiences held by other laser owners at my club say that the surf on our beach make going out and coming back in difficult. A catamaran is much more suited to traversing the surf, sandbars and associated breakers.

In my case I will just clip my F16 rudders and tiller extension to the back of this boat and use one of my spinnaker sheet autoratchets for the mainsheet. And of course I just use my class 5 landyacht mast for the sail. Hell I got enough spare blocks and bolts laying around to complete fit out this boat as per current plans.

Yes, I think I'm designing a boat that I will be sailing myself as well.

Preliminary drag/saildrive calculations show speeds beween 9 and 14 knots both upwind and downwind.

OHHHHH yeah !!!

Wouter

Having attended a seminar on stitch and glue building by Chris, I can tell you he is multihull fan. The Proa design is very interesting, and I had asked him if he would ever consider a kit or plans for another multi (I was thinking of a cat based on the basics of the Proa main hull). He didn't rule it out, but had nothing planned, as something like that might be bigger than a practical kit. This, however, may just be the thing that gets their interest. If nothing else they may be willing to share some tips that would help the design be a success from a mass building sense.

Here's the linesplan to the drawing I posted earlier:






I can tweak the design very quickly to accommodate any changes that Wouter or anyone else wants.

One little thing about that design above, I know little kids will ram those things into each other and the dock, etc. so how about making the bows plumb top to bottom instead of pointy at the waterline? That would spread out the impact stress and hopefully NOT cause holes in the hull of what ever they hit, and protect the bows of the hitter as well.

Also, I asked them (CLC) about doing a wooden Blade F16 kit but he said it would be too hard to it as tourtured ply (for most beginners) and it would also be quite a big job to convert tourtured ply plans to the stitch and glue plans, since that method does not lend itself to a nice round hull bottom. However, he did not rule out any stitch and glue type hulls. We would probably want to specify the mast/sail set up to keep it as a one-design type boat. BTW, this is exactly how the Opti started. The "Optimist", a charity group from the Tampa area, had a contest to design a small sailboat out of a single sheet of 4x8 plywood. Perhaps the F12 could be the "New Opti"?

Maybe out of 3 sheets of 4x8 ply?

Like this Tim?

John,

Correct me if I am wrong but the designs that you and Wouter are presenting are still a tortured ply design, i.e. the side panels have curvature in more than one direction and so the ply sheet still has to be tortured i.e. bent in two directions at the same time. Although by keeping the amount of curvature in one of the directions small you are making the torturing process easier.

I don't think there is any way around this to produce the kind of hull shapes (which I think are good) that you are proposing

Does the software that either of you are using have the facility to produce flat panel patterns for the side panels that you are designing?

Gareth

You realise that the hull shapes and sizes that you are proposing are quite similar to those of the international moth. 3.35 length 2.25 beam with a planing bottom. It may be worth looking to some of their construction techniques.

http://www.moth.asn.au/building_registration.html
and

http://www.moth.asn.au/download/building_ply_skiff_moth.pdf

Gareth

Jalani, yes, that's probably more safe for the kiddies, and anyone near them! <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> (I have 4 kids, I can tell you they can hurt each other and you, even with a baskettball!)

My designs are definately not "tortured ply", but I'm afraid to say that those of John are.

My designs ONLY bend the plates in one direction and therefor do not require any torturing. And therefor it is of course understood that my hulls will look a little more crude as a result.

Able to make the hulls out of flat panels bend only in one plane was one of the very first design criteria on my list.

Maybe later we may be able to twist the panels a little bit by making use of the natural flexibility of the panels but we'll develop that after have gained experience by building a few prototypes. Calculating the panel shapes is a whole lot more difficult when twisting the panels.





Yes.


Tim, I would like to have a wave-piercer bow, but the hull shape I'm working on now (simpler) has a straight bow.

The deck of my hull design arcs down towards the stern and bow. So that is also a difference with the picture made by John.


Wouter

I always thought it would be fun to connect two of those foiling moths with carbon cross beams, create a foiling cat!

Hi All

Firstly, I found over here that companies aren't too keen on shipping the ply sheets scarfed but unjoined, they don't like the risk of damage to the scarf during transport, and having to replace it.

Second, I can't remember, I'll get back to you. <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Regards