The original question in this thread was trying to right the Nacra 6.0 solo. The power righter is not for single-handing a Nacra 6.0.

It does work, it does work well.

And yes the mount on the beam does not have to be directly behind the dolphin striker -- it can be off to either side.

Hope this reviews some misconceptions.

They are a good product, they work well, and work fine for every boat I have used them on.

Rick

(BTW, I continue to agree with you that the design as conceived is sound and effective, my only problem is with thet current implementation, which, as you say, is some other guy's work. You're very kind to try and sort all this out.)



Sorry Rick, my post wasn't too clear on one point. Whether or not you put the plate next to the strut supporting the D-striker is irrelevent to the problem. You still have to locate the plate in such a way that it allows the pole to be used perpendicular to the tramp. That means it must be somewhere aft of the bottom of the beam, to get it out from under the D-Striker Bar.



This of course tilts the plate and universal joint. A soon as you tilt the universal joint out of line with the pole while in use, you create the tipping moment I described in my earlier post. In Rick's implementation, the flanges are alligned to oppose this force, and the plate is curved to match the beam. See picture below:









Rick's picture, showing the plate as he uses it.

(The plate now shipping doesn't work this way)





The plate they're shipping now, unlike the one in your picture, is perfectly flat, except for the region in the middle where the nut'nbolt from the Uni-joint stick through. But the "flanges" on either side are in the same plane. Each flange has one rivet hole, centered in the flange. Absent bending this sturdy thing, you cannot mount it with the plate's long axis pointing up-and-down, like in your picture, above.



As it is now shipping, it's impossible to install it this way.



So when I called Murray's, the advice was to mount it the long way. (With the flanges pointing to the beam-ends) This place the single line of contact in line with the 2 rivet holes, and thus the force multiplier under rocking moment is near-infinite. Plus the rivets are not alligned to oppose rocking moment at all - - they have zero leverage to hold down the plate.



Presto! Instant claw hammer/pry-bar.



Hope this clears things up. Sorry they took your design and changed it.



I repeat Murray's says they'll stand behind this and all their products, and that they're now looking into a fix. My guess: shims or exoxy-putty as a "fix up" for existing owners, and they'll curve the plates on future orders. There can't be more than 5 very popular beam curvatures out there, and for the odd one-or two, they can ship the closest aproximation, with Expoxy putty. Maybe they'll offer new curved plates to existing customers, but sliding in a shim and adding 4 rivets is an easier fix, and seems adequate.

Will the vertical post of the dolphin striker sustain the forces incurred in the righting procedure?

(Thinking of a new idea).

WindOverWater

Hey! You guys are missing the boat...so to speak. I right my Prindle 18 alone...solo...sans crew..with no one else. I weigh roughly 160 wet. The solution for me was the Solo~Right. I'm not getting paid by Gary for this, I just use the product and the darn thing works! I had a bag but never got that to do the task. I looked at the Murray's stuff but it wasn't really made for one person.



Sheldon

I also use the Solo~Right system on my Hobie 18 and have not had a single problem. I have tipped and righted in less than five minutes. It did take me a couple of times to get the system down, but it works like a charm now. My friend uses a bag system and outweighs me by 20 pounds. He takes at least twice as long to right his boat using the bag method. Not only can I right it by myself, but it gives me more confidence, knowing if the wind picks up, I am ready to right quickly instead of tiring myself out trying to right a capsized boat. Another advantage is that I now have a paddle on board in case the need arises without shoving something into my hull.



Gary's system works very well, I suggest you try it or find someone close by that has it. Like Sheldon, I receive nothing from writing this other than knowing this may enable another sailor to enjoy solo sailing their cat. Good Luck and happy sailing!!



Kip

I found that I wasn't enough of an acrobat to use Gary's solo right. Glad to hear it's working out great for others, though. Guess I just wouldn't call myself "Mr. Balance" or "Mr. Coordinated." If you put yourself in that category, you may want to think twice about the Soloright.



The thought was also in the back of mind that if I fell off the wrong way, that I might just lose the old gonads!! Ouch!



Fair winds,



Tim J.

I don't know what the Nacra class rules allow but I consistantly am able to right my Supercat 20 with a 12' beam and 33' mast by myself and I wiegh about 140lbs. The Supercat utilizes a side shroud extension which allows the upper hull to come over center of effort to right the boat. But!!! You must use a captive mast/ball system to prevent demasting. I've righted my boat in all conditions including the first Texas Two Step with 28 -33 mph winds and 8'+ waves! I can right this boat faster than any other boat I've sailed and when you KNOW you can right your own boat you can push it that much harder with cofidence. If any of you are going to the Ruff Rider Bandit Run, I'll be glad to show you how it works. Simplicity at its best!

Don Caldwell

"Vertigo"

I remember that the Hobie class rules specifically exclude the use of shroud extenders to be class legal. I've read the Nacra class rules but don't recall any mention of it. Does anyone have any comment on this?

You may be right about the Hobie class rules, however, I believe the original intent was for righting a boat solo. If racing solo, you would either have to be over minimum weight of around 300 lbs or you wouldn't be racing under NAHCA. If racing under another organization, then I believe the Hobie class rules would not apply.



In response a previous writer, I have not found it difficult to "tightrope walk" Gary's system. If one were to use the one line righting system (single line thrown over the hull attached to the dolphin striker), it would be difficult, however, I use a homemade Hawaiian system. This in effect gives me three balance points, feet, left hand, right hand. This allows balance to be a non-issue. I do realize that others may find it difficult, I just wanted to clarify this.



Kip

Hobie 18

I, being the one who was pinned under the high board can tell you about the popping of those little buggers....



If one swings the pole out too forward, it bottoms out against the dolphine striker creating a fulcrum against rivets. With all that moment, they come out quick. Lesson learned, DONT let the pole hit the striker....



It should work fine...Im 6,4" 190 lbs and can solo right an I-20...



Hope this helps...

The SoloRight instructions cleary indicate that you should use a righting line that leads from your hands, to both the front and rear of the boat. The Hawaaiin system can be lengthened to accomodate SoloRight use. It is not to be used with only a single righting line from the boat.

I have recently procured a Nacra 6.0 that I will SoloRight with the SoloRight capsize recovery system. Does anyone want pictures? Or will you take may word for it?

To date, the easiest boat to right with the SoloRight was the Prindle 19. The most difficult was the Msytere 6.0. Hobie 18, not bad.

The Hobie 21SE was a pretty good challenge, but that prototype tool was designed for use with assistance by a second sailor. (Even though the boat was indeed righted by one man without assistance!)

No matter what system you use, be sure to practice and to know your ability.

GARY

After using the pole several times, I can assure you, it does work great. However, I too in the initial stages "popped" the rivs....

Using extreme patience, I have replaced the rivets with ss thru bolts /nylock nuts. That seems to offer the strength it needed. Furtermore, I enlarged the size to 1/4".

Also, you must use caution NOT to let the pole bottom out against the D. striker as that creates a HUGE fulcrum and enourmous loads...

Have fun..

the SC 20 to its limits and beyond. Now what can I do to get you here for the SC Nationals?
Thom had said you were doing another race. Very sad to hear that as we are building momentum with ours.
Let me know, maybe next year if you cant make it this year.

David Mosley
www.seacats.org

Ed, The fixes I have used for the problems with the as supplied system:

1. Take a 1/4" piece of "ship board" (high density plastic) and cut to the same size as the foot of the righting pole. Hold a piece of 180 grit over the main cross beam grit side up and sand the plastic to the shape of the beam. This will make a shaped shim to go under the foot of the pole distributing the loads better.

2. Use 1/4-20 bolts and nuts to mount to beam.

Good luck, Mark L.

My 10 cents:

Righting a 18ft+ cat solo is tough. Face the facts that you may not be able to right a 20ft'er no matter what water buckets and levers you have.

The pole was designed for two people to use. Shroud extenders work wonders for gaining mechanical advantage. We have a set on our Getaway and you just can beat them. Water buckets can be advantagous, but are a lot of work.