Hello out there:
I just picked up a Mystere 5.5 that is in awesome shape. I wanted to connect with others that might have information as to where Mystere went? Is there anyone out there that carries old parts? Most things on it can be retrofitted,but I would like to put a spin on it and they may have had a stock kit. Thanks Im in Vancouver B.C.

Read through this entire forum... it has the most complete explanation of what happened to the company and how to try and get parts from them (although no one has confirmed it is still possible). Please post any new data you find

Read the old posts on how to call Yves' sailing school for Mystere parts. As to your spin, consider an AHPC mid-pole ring. It's a great design. You can get an entire Capricorn spin hardware set from Fun in the Sun (Robbie Daniel & Jill Nickerson). Find a spin pole locally to save shipping. For the spinnaker itself, start with used F18 spin (unless you have lots of cash and want to buy all new).

I have a bunch of parts left over from 5 years of Mystere-ing. I'd sell a set of rudder blades, lower castings, a bag of cam parts, a set of gudgons and rudder pins, and probably more. Send me a PM if interested.

Thanks for the direction on parts. I called them and they sound rather disorganized and confirmed they still sell parts. When asked if they had a parts list or manuals they replyed with tell us what you need. My next question for anyone out there is about the Jib sheets. Can anyone supply a photo or description on how to hook up the sheets and blocks. Right now I have the blocks attached directly to the slining traveler. Im led to believe that they should be in a different arrangment than a TheMightyHobie18 style attached this low. I have the block cams set as high as they go,but when Im on the wire they are still to low to uncleat. Do the blocks mount higher and become adjustable by a pully system? I hope Ive explained this OK??

Here are some pics..





I will try and see if i have better pics at home. PS i am using the harken ratchet blocks and they are angled all the way up... they seem to be good for the wire but a BAD angle for adjusting the jibsheet when i am using my barber-hauler...

please post a pic of your jib setup

also did you order anything from them? If so.. how did that go>?

Here are all the images i posted below

another

more again

again

last

Thanks David,a photo is worth a thousand words.... Unfortunatley the photos dont quite clearley show the jib block rigging under the tramp pocket and life jacket. Any other photos would be appreciated when you get the time. I was able to determine that the way I have it now (my blocks attached directly to the pad eye on the jib traveller)is wrong, and that its actually supposed to be hooked up as a barber hauler. At this time Im not sure how to do that,but your info so far is great. I also determined from your photo the proper way to run the bungee on the daggers. Im presently building pieces for a spinnaker and am waiting for pole and snuffer to come in.I owned 2 H18s prior to getting this Mystere and the Mystere is definatley a faster boat.It doesnt rocker through the waves,but instead cuts them and has tons of power. Im so far impressed by the 5.5 and think its unfortunate they didnt give Hobie a better run for the money.This boat is faster,I guess thats marketing for you?
Im out on it this weekend and will try to snap some photos.
Cheers,

Here is a picture, diagram of the routing of the lines, bungies, and cable that pass under the pocket.

GARY

Just to be a SNOB... here are a few corrections:

ANDREW (not Dave) posted all those pics for you!

Jib traveler? If you mean the piece that moves forward to aft.. that is for setting the jib angle (leach and foot)..

I have my barber hauler rigged as the image shows… a floating peace on the jib sheets (circled in green) then the line (highlighted in yellow) runs through a very small block and clam cleat on the beam.


There are also seconday outhauls that move the Jib block system out that are independant of the barber hauler.

Many people completely remove the barberhaulers when they rig a spinnaker to remove some clutter… but I am new to spinnakers, so I don’t pull it out in 15+ *yet)

We have Centerboards, not dagger boards <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

not sure why the pic isnt working,... here it is again

Hi there here are my photos. Thanks for all of your reply to my question. I copied your set up and usd a wire across the boat instead of a cord. Does this look right to you? I also extened my blocks with some climbing straps because they wouldnt cleat off in the lower position.Im not sure why bungee is used. When sailing,the blocks tend to want to pull in towards the tramp pocket anyways. Thanks for the correction on dagger boards.

no picture found

Ooops....trying again!

Heres anothr shot....I guess my photos were to large to upload??

I put extensions on my blocks so the crew can uncleat them when on the wire. Otherwise they are to low. I havent installed bungee across the tramp to the jib blocks and Im not sure why its required.Thanks everyone for the input. I now understand the barber hauler system a bit better.Most boats at our beach dont have them and those that do (Tornados)arent quite set up the same.
Cheers,
Hopefully the GPS will show some increased speed.The next thing Im working on is installing a snuffer and spin kit. Im collecting the parts this week.

Heres one last photo of the system

No..

the bungie does not go through those bullet blocks.
The bungie is simply to add tention/pressure to the boards to help keep them in place (either up and or down). This is especailly needed when putting the boat on the beach and trailer to stop the boards from dropping down and getting hurt. Even though i have bungies.. i still tie my boards up for getting on the trailer and for the drive home.. the last thing i want is to drag a board for 5 miles.

the bullet blocks guide lines to slide the center boards up and down (a great feature to be able to drop both boards with a pull on 1 line, or slide both up when hitting bottom.) Just add thin lines (not bungie) to exactly how you have the bungie run presantly (but NOT under the tramp... you will have slack in the line when the boards are down and you DONT want to drag that line. TRUST ME, WE SNAGGED A CRAB TRAP DOING 20+ on a line under the tramp..... not good).

Some people dont use this and remove the bullet blocks to keep their boat cleaner (less lines) but i love this feature.


I think you have the right idea in general... but you can use much lighter line on the jib outhauls... plus it looks like you have 3 lines tied together? i think it would be bad to have one untie while underway.

I also run a bungie between the jib blocks to pull them together.

i dont know about your extentions... seems funky to me... I cant imagine that you need your jib that high of your deck. I sail with 5 other mystere's locally and many others who use barber haulers and i have never seen any one extend them ...but if it works for you then great.

Your jib looks to be to far forward... this is actually determined by the cut of your jib... your leach and sail foot should have even pull for most upwind conditions... and i bet you can slide back your adjusters (the slider on the rail)... but depends on the jib cut.


Here is how the bungie goes



PS great looking boat!

I dont think i agree.. the pull of the sail when full of air would be outward... not in... I use a good deal of bungie looped, pulled tight. this gives alot of pull inward but also allows it to flex out for downwind. I am finding that if i am using the barberhauler... there is no need to adjust the jibblock out. and if under spin... no jib at all (mostly)

Wow! another good example of how much I have to learn. In between all the friggin with the riggin' Im still out sailing...dont mind the wetsuit in the photo. The water up here in Vancouver on the Pacific is cold and refreshing!
Your correction on my bungie set up makes total sense and Ill change that around to work correctly. Ive actaully snagged a crab trap myself and fortunatley at that time I didnt have the bungee hooked up so the daggers popped forward to release it. Thanks for your drawing!
I thought as well that the pressure on the jib would tend to pull the blocks out,but in fact they tended to center on the cable length that the blocks run on as its some what slack. Should the cable or line, as in your photo that the Jib block run on be tight or slightly loose to allow it to flex with the tramp and pocket it runs through? Sorry for what seems to be the simple questions out there as Im the only 5.5 on the north west coast.

Tight... but some slack shouldnt matter.. but those extenders change everything.

We hit the crab trap on my friends mystere 6.0 at 20+ with his spin retreival line that was dragging below. It snagged the trap fload and stopped us in our tracks, ripped the block out the mast and both of us were "Peter Panned" off the boat.

RE PARTS:
I spoke with Yves today in Quebec. Really helpful people and friendly. They still manufacture the 5.5 and 6.0 hulls as they have the molds. The 5.0 is now no longer made. All parts are still available other than the cross beams which are now a differant version since year 2000. They are emailing me a parts list of what they have and Ill post is shortly.They have no manuals. The Mystere is still manufacted and called the Mystere.
Cheers,

That is the most INCREDIBLE statement I've ever heard concerning Mystere management. I would guess you are are the first on the planet Earth to say that.

i called and order parts last week. well actually my sister (who speaks french) called 3 weeks ago and left a message for kim. they didnt call her back. i called 2 weeks ago and it took them a week to call me back. there was some language barriers but very little.... i ordered 2 complete upper castings... plus plastic ends and pins and "travelers".

The traveler is what the rubber cam locks onto, and was the only part we had communication issues with... I didnt understand what she (celine) meant durring our call. the cost was 159 for the entire casting, ends and travler.

I look forward to seeing the pars list.

Aboopoo, do you speak french?

No.....I wish I did speak french... I was in Quebec and its a beautiful place to travel in! Rich in culture and kindness. The french are wonderful people...Another language would be an asset to me. Any information I put up here regarding the school was easily understood and communicated in english. I think language questions are for another forum so I want to stick more to the topic,Mystere's. Ill call again today for that parts list......Thanks for all the help and photos again on the barber hauler. I had light winds this weekend and it seems to help a lot in tightening up the slot. I bungee'd my daggers as suggested, and it the worked well in staying down. Great ideas! Im looking forward to more information. Cheers,

Sorry for the late reply on a parts list. I had a bit of a vacation and came back to an email from Yves Sailing school. Here is the attached list they sent me for parts.

Hi Andrew : thanks for posting such nice pix of you cat . Your Mystere 5.5 looks like my P-19 . Do you you have any equipment on your boat to assist you when you solo capsize ? Solo Right ? solo pole ? Please advise . I am looking into something to assist me right my P-19 when solo .If it can be done ? Please advise ! Bill Billsails@hotmail.com

yes i have a righting bag and block system

My sailing season has started again and I noticed the seals in the centerboard wells have torn out. I found the new seals,but the local dealer didnt know what to glue them on with. Any ideas? It looks like the previous material was similar to a sikaflex,not a resin.

What Lassie? there are Seals in the centerboard wells? Oh no!

If you are talking about the Gaskets that are attached under the hulls... the way i do it is....

PREP IS EVERYTHING... remove ALL the old gasket and adhesive. ALL... (got it?). Lots of elbow grease and Goof Off (gunk cleaner avialable online or at walmart).. it takes me over an hour to clean the area (each)

then i use contact cement (as do everyone i know). First apply it on the cat then also on the gasket. let them both dry for 10-15 min (the can tells you a way to test for correct "dryness"). THen i re-apply a second coat on each.

Then press into place. YOU GOT 1 SHOT to get it right! if you put the gasket on.. and its wrong.. and you try to rip it off.... you will never get a good "seat". It may work for a while but it will not last as long as if you got it right the first time. I use painters tape to mark out the correct area.

It is much easier to do with the boat upside down... but getting your cat upside down isn't easy...

PS the gasket material i use is called Center Board Slot Tape and i get it from LayLine.com


PPS... since this section (Myster) is basically dead... you should probably post in the general forum or PM me.... if you need a faster responce.