Somebody just made a comment to me that "We need a reliable telescoping tiller extension."

Since I had not heard any complaints in recent years, I thought they must all be reliable these days. There used to be some panic moments on our Hobie 18 when the tiller would telescope in (shorten) when it was not supposed to and would telescope out (lengthen) when it was not supposed to. When tacking or jibing in close quarters, this was a potentially dangerous situation. But that was long ago.

SO, do people still have problems with the telescoping extensions? If so, what are the problems? And can these problems be fixed, or prevented by some kind of maintenance?

What are the best telescoping tiller extensions? Who makes them? Where do you buy them? Can most tiller extensions be adapted to most catamarans, or are some of them boat specific? Do one-design classes have restrictions on what tiller extensions you are allowed to use?

Well I still have those same problems! Sticks when you need to move, slips when you need it to stay, mostly at inconvenient moments. It will go along fine and then just when you trust it and need it... I always figured it was an old-age problem (both the extension and myself...). The one I had on my 14 never gave me problems, the one on my 18 occasionally causes fits of cussing - both appear to be the same make. We'll see how the one on the 20 works, it also appears to be the same make but it's longer. I always figured uncorking some more money and buying a new one would be the fix, but that eats into beer money!

My ariba just likes to jam, so sometimes extending it wont work without me putting my foot on the tiller crossbar and heaving. But sometimes, I'll be halfway through a jibe and the upper half will just fling itself out to its full length. I think the idea situation would be a telescoping extension where a button on the top of the tiller is used to disengage a lock, like a ball bearing. (think quick pull pins)

Maugan,

not a bad idea except that sometimes I like to extend the stick prior to my trapezeing....or I sometimes leave it extended while I'm sitting in on the boat in anticipation of a gust and a quick shot out to the trap. If the button were on the end, I wouldn't be able to reach it from this position.

In that case, you could make the ball bearing actually on the telescoping part and able to push it down with your finger while pulling the extension out. Or, you push in on the ball bearing and twist the extension, effectively lcoking it down. When pull the extension out, you just twist back to lock the ball bearing in place.

Ok, so the idea needs work, but I'm procrastinating on my java assignment and I'd rather thing about boats than code.

My hotstick slipped as I was coming off the wire this weekend, went into the water and bent backwards putting a 12 inch long crack in the inside sleeve....I didn't like the !@#$% thing anyway.....

How about some suggestions about stuff on the market....anyone??

I have had sticks jam up with sand before. I don't know if these sicks still exist, but I recieved an aftermarket stick with a Hobie 18. It was made by FORESPAR and is called The CatStick. It is my favorite stick for two reasons:
1. When it is in all the way, the foam handle seals the inner workings of the stick, thus keeping crap out.

2. The smaller diameter end is the one gripped when extended.

I will use that stick till it snaps. It is great.

my ronstan one is geat ans has never failed

good wind too all

kurt

I wonder...can you buy just the inside part of the hot stick? That's what's wrong with mine too.

Jake, since your looking to replace the inside I'm going to assume you know how to or have taken it apart. This is something I have done and it works. Get some epoxy (laminating works well) put a little mill fiber in and use a small foam or regular brush and paint a thin coat on the high side of the stick. Let it kick then do it again. It helps if you put a little on the inside of outer stick. Let it sit for a week then sand and feather the edge. Finish sand with 400 wet and dry. As you sand check the fit from time to time. You'll be able to see where you need to sand or add. I do touch-up paint work for car dealers so another thing I'll do is carry the stick with me and when I have left over clearcoat I'll put a couple coats on,let it sit then add some more etc. Gel coat sprayed with a preval or brushed on would work too.

Have Fun
Mike

After going thru about one new hotstick a year, I have tried just about everything. The repair you describe has worked pretty well, but does not seem to last. We finally have solved the problem in our H-17 Fleet, Hobie Cat Div. 4. We have taken all the broken H-17 Hot Sticks and made good ones out of the broken parts. Some have broken on the inner part, some on the outer shell. The spares are taken to races, and shared as needed. The long stick and working from the wings puts added stress on the tiller extension.

Caleb

True, the repair doesn't last but then neither does the original stick. The action is constantly wearing away material.Use the hardest material you can find. Epoxys used in fuel tank construction cure very hard. Make the contact surfaces as smooth as possible (reduces wear and improves the action). Try not to over tighten when setting the length and have fun.

Mike

I've been fixing the same Hotstick for 8 years. I slit the outer tube lengthwise next to the eccentric inside for 3 inches with a hacksaw. Then put a shaped 1 inch long by 1/4 inch wide piece of epoxyfiberglassed cloth inside on the low worn spot with epoxy. (The inner tube has already been covered with non-stick Xerox overhead film). Compress with a hose clamp until it works properly, then wrap with thin nylon cord, and epoxy the whole outside carefully. Remove hose clamp and film- done.
Lasts 2 years.

On the old forum I remember a discussion where someone said they used some kind of fiberglass telescoping painters extension pole and modified it to fit with great results. Anyone have any details on this and what type of pole was used?

I'm not who sure where you can get them, but I have seen a yellow fiberglass adjustable pole.The only mod. is to put a handle on it and drill a hole in the threaded end so it can be attached to the cross bar.

One bad thing about the that type of pole is the surface finish breaks down in the sun and you start getting fiberglass in your hands.

Mike,

I think I've secured a donor stick - but I haven't a clue how to disassemble the thing. Can you elaborate?

Hi Jake,
Don't forget that the Nacra class rules do not require a "non-conductive" tiller extension like Hobie does.
You can get an aluminum, extendable boat hook for about $10. Just take the plastic hook off and put a swivel on.
I have one in my sail tube I can show you.
I used the extendable canvas support to make a tiller extension for may 18sq. it only cost $20.

Jake, if your talking about how to take apart the hot stick you have to turn it so it will slide easy in and out. Extend it all the way till it stops. Slide it in a little and pull it apart firmly. Some are hard to get apart. I think the older the easier to get apart. Regardless the two are pulled apart. The stop is a small pin with smooth ends. Don't lose the pin.

Mike

I have had a Alum. for about six months now and while it is lighter, If you dent as I have it may not work. I've tweaked mine a few times and it won't collapse past half way now. It is light though!

Mike

if you play with something to much, you're goin' to break it.