I'm thinking about adding a spinnaker to my 1990 Hobie 18 magnum, but I'm concerned about mounting a tang to my comptip. Any advice? I see spinnaker kits in the store, but I don't know what's in them. Do they come with instructions? If I start working with a local dealer, it looks like I'm going to spend $2,000; that's more than the boat is worth. I just love the wings and do not want to give them up.

Wyatt

Wyatt,
Depends what you want. The Hobie kit has everything all worked out geometry wise, instructions, and all the parts you need. It doesn't offer a pole snuffer system, you have to tramp launch. The 'kit' is several hundred dollars less expensive than if you were to buy all of the parts separately. And you won't have to fabricate anything. I just got done fabricating a spinnaker for the Getaway and it took a while to get everything worked out, build bridles etc.

I want a kite for those 5 to 12 days I'm going downwind a long distance; we seem to do a lot of that here. My biggest concern is attaching a tang to the comp tip; I just don't want to destroy it. I did rivet a Hobie Bob to the tip of the mast and it seemed to go okay, but I don't know if the comp tip can take the stress on four rivets.

The Hobie spinnaker kit positions this tang about 1/3 of the way up the comptip from the hounds. I had no problems with the spinnaker kit on my old Hobie 18SX - raced hard in a variety of wind conditions. The 18SX uses the same comtip as the regular 18 (the spinnaker just has a longer luff). It may not be wise to reach double trapped with two heavy people with this setup, but for normal downwind sailing (including sailing hot enough to keep a hull up all the time) it seems to handle the stress without any problems. Just don't release all the tension on the main sheet when powered up in a blow (but that applies to almost any cat with a spinnaker).

The Hobie kit comes with everything you need. I would suggest keeping the pole length longer than they suggest - say 12' and fit your sheet blocks to the hull lip using a stainless slug under the lip - like a hobie 16 side shroud. The kit suggests a pole length aroun 8.5' - which leaves a narrow slot between the spin, jib and main - so you end up having to furl the jib.

Chris.

Thanks Chris. I had my spinnaker sheets at the shrouds but they need to move forward. Great Idea using a Hobie 16 slug.
BTW my end pole snuffer is 12'6" on the Hobie 18, and comes on & off easily.

Depending on how you want to go - you can engineer a system pretty easily for this boat on the cheap, especially if you don't mind bag launching.

I beat the bushes and found a good condition used sail. Sailor friends had spare windsurfing masts (fiberglass) they unloaded for the price of free.

A hand full of 1/8" spectra for bridles, a couple of blocks, and there was fun. If you're interested I can provide more details.

Chris: We're getting closer. Where would those jib sheets be attached to the lip? Near, but behind the front crossbar? When you had it on the 18sx, weren't the blocks on the wings?

Keith: Are you using the ratchet blocks in your setup? I'm thinking about the pole launching system. A few of our guys actually made their own by buying an aluminum pole locally, buying the bag (from Rick) and making their own snuffer ring. I think I can have a spinnaker made for about $725.

Wyatt

I used Harken Ratchamatics mounted on the rear crossbeam, with the sheets run forward to turning blocks on the front beam, crew trimmed from the front blocks. I had wanted to move mine forward, but did want go all the way to the shroud. The best advice is to rig the boat up and play around to see where the sheeting angle is best.

I rigged a single line halyard/tack set up, worked very nice. I supported the pole at the forestay using a small Harken swivel attached to the bottom of the forstay adjuster plate (it extended below the furler just enough). Drilled small holes in the bow lips for running the pole bridles, and ran some bridles from the bow tangs to pole at the forestay area just to limit side to side movement. For the blocks on the pole I used Harken Tie Lites to avoid putting loads on eyes and rivets. I used eye straps just to locate the lashings for the blocks. A mid pole snuffer could have easily been added to that rig. I sold the boat awhile ago, but I have a ton of pics from the process of putting the rig together.

End of pole detail:

I took the wings off the 18SX to race it with the spinnaker, and my blocks were a little way behind the side shrouds. The exact position of the blocks depends on the cut of your spinnaker and length of your pole. Rig the spinnaker on a light air day and then experiment with sheeting positions (hand holding the sheet) until you find a position the looks good (foot not too tight or loose when the leach is trimmed to give a nice shape).

I did not use H16 slugs under the lip - I think they are too big. Instead, I copied the idea and made my own slugs out of some stainless rod bought from a hardware store. I drilled through the rod (file a little flat and center punch to make it easier to get the hole started) and then through bolted an eye strap throught the deck lip and slug (you could tap the holes in the slug if you want a cleaner look).