Ok, did a little searching and still feel like asking...

We're going to the 10:1 mainsheet system on the N-20. So it's time for a new mainsheet as well. It sounds to me like the Swiftcord/Salsa/Conception type line is a great way to go (just did the spin sheets with that, with a Vectran tail). So, the questions are:

What length is appropriate for the 10:1 system on the N-20 (say whether you are including the traveler line with that measurement)?

What thickness is working well for people? Obviously the trade off between running through the blocks and hand comfort, but what are folks using and does it work well?

Are people using this line for the whole length through the blocks, or splicing it something else like Vectran for the run through the blocks? Anybody seen any issue (other than cost) for running the whole system with it?

Time's running thin, don't have too much more time for experimentation. Thanks for the info ahead of time!

Plain vectran (like vectrus) is relatively cheap but you can't hold onto it. Tapering is the way to go (figure you know what this is.. but it is stripping the cover off the core and burying it so it has a nice taper and runs through blocks perfectly. you end up with a smaller diameter, slippery high tech core going through the blocks).
Lines like Marlow V2 (may be discontinued) have a vectran core which can be tapered. For some reason, the taper doesn't look as nice with the vectran core as it does with a dyneems core (marlow D2- which I think may have been discontinued as well). I did a taper on the same diameter V2 and D2 and the D2 lookes much better... BUT... not talking about looks.
I think the problem with the salsa/conceptions stuff is that it can't be tapered (maybe I am wrong here, but it is listed as a single braid) so you are stuck with the whole diameter running through everything.
5/16 I think is the ideal size and shouldn't be a problem with a 10:1 purchase system.
You could be the first on the block with the new Paraloc line (check out aps.com) which looks interesting but isn't taperable either.
I would go with 5/16 D2 (if you can find it still) with a taper. Can't help with the length though.. sorry, but on my boat with 9:1 blocks and using the tail as the trav line, I use 45 feet and it seems a little long. I would start with 50-55 (???) for your boat and decrease from there.
If you can't find the D2, warpspeed would be perfect and is very easily tapered.
One thing that I think I will try in the future is use some vectran but either have someone (aps, trey, etc) put a cover ON it or do it myself.
hope I didn't confuse you or anything.. lines can get complicated.

I've set up several 10:1 mainsheets for the N20. Use 51 ft overall, and an 11 ft taper. If you are going to use a taperable line, avoid a vectran core. Vectran does not have good durability when exposed to chafe or UV. Spectra (also known as Dyneema) is more suited to this application. The easiest solution is to start with a 5/16" Marlow D2 or NE Endurabraid and strip/taper/bury the cover at least 18".

My preferred solution is to start with a 5/16" Robline Racing Sheet (can also use Salsa, Buzz, or Conception), and brummel splice it to 3/16" spectra. It takes more time to get the splice right, but gives you a soft handling line with a durable 12-strand product in the blocks. With all the drag of a 10:1 system, this route makes the most efficient use of the blocks, especially in light to moderate air.

is there a diagram anywhere as to how to do that splice?

Thanks! One question - The 51 feet overall includes the traveler line, correct? Do you splice something on to do the split tail for that?

I think it could get complicated trying to splice spectra into the core for the traveler end of the line and then splice another piece of spectra into that to make a split tail. If it were just a line with a dyneema core you would just take the core out, lock it and tie the core to one eye and the cover to the other.

Our latest main sheet (9:1 system)

3/8" Trophy braid, core removed and replaced with spectra. The Trophy braid cover is spliced into the spectra tail which is just short enough that it does not come out of the cleat when at maximum main sheet tension (pretty much block 2 block).

Trophy braid has a nice hand, good durability and is dirt cheap. We scrounged the sprectra off a friend who picked up a whole reel. We could have saved some money by splicing the spectra into the trophy braid core, but that would just add another lumpy bit to run through the blocks.

Chris.

I like the way trophy feels also. I actually tapered the line and used that for a while. Not as pretty as high tech cores, but works fine.
What size spectra did you use for the core?

The 51' number does not include the traveller. Depending on the traveller setup, some boats can get away with just the 51', others need to add 6 feet. I typically use a low-tech line for the traveller, it's normally set to the center and left there.

I have been using 3/8 Conception spliced to 1/4 Vectron and love it on a 10:1 for the Tiger. The Conception goes to the top block when sheeted completely in so as not to get so close that I cleat to the Vectron. I had APS do the splice and they did a great job. I have been using it for three trouble free years. I like to have the softest biggest line in my hand for comfort. I am pretty sure the whole length is 48 feet including traveller. I have a double on a three at the top and 2 singles on a three on the bottom for 10 to 1.

Later,
Dan

Hey Keith,

Just re-did mine for 9:1. got 42' of 10mm Marlow D2 and did a 10' taper on it. does not include the traveler line. I like D2 because the cover is nice and stiff and does not hockle much. APS has a tail of this (around 42') in the clearance section for around $40. I tried conception for jib sheets but don't like how it is holding up. UV kills it pretty fast. I also liked endurabraid from NE and would use that as well. If going the with the plan of splicing a core to a single braid, I would use swiftcord or salsa. I don't trust how anything with polypropoline would hold up long term.

Just my opinion, but opinions are just like....

You are not using a continuous line from mainsheet to traveler? Do you prefer this for some reason?

I've had trouble keeping track of two separate lines (mainsheet/traveler) during crash tacks/gybes, and thought it was more convenient to have one single line for both.

I'd like your thoughts on the two-line setup.

I have two lines as well. They are not really separate since I think we all time them together. Ever have the mainsheet slip off the back of the boat? I have had it go off the back and around the rudder. I have learned the simplest and fastest thing to do is untie the traveler line from the mainsheet, pull the mainsheet back on board and retie. Takes about as long as it took to read that description. Another reason is that it makes taking you mainsheet blocks off the boat really easy. You don't have to undue the split tail end of the traveler line which is a PIA to tie back correctly. During transport the traveler line can then be used to tie stuff down.

I also ultimately prefer a two-line solution if for no other reason than to have two different colors. Yes, it's all the same line once tied together, but having a different color means I can easily grab the portion of the line closer to the control I want to affect.