Hi all

I was just wondering what set up people have, to enable them to stand a carbon mast by themselves. Currently i use the help of others to hold the trapeze lines well i raise the mast.

Some of the taipan sailer's at my club have rigged a small line which connects between the front beam and the trapeze lines which seems to work ok - I'm still considering this approach.

Any advise would be great

I tie the trap lines to teir shrouds. I tape one of the shrouds/trap lines on the mast, the other is free. With that they cannot entangle. I lift the bows on the cattraxx, so that the mast can be hold by its forestays alone, lift the mast, attach the shrouds... I do this only, if there is no wind. With wind I ask always for help.

Cheers,

Klaus

The mast is quite a bit lighter than the Taipan mast (it should be around 11kg) so it's a bit easier. The main trick is to always keep it in line with the wind as there's a lot of windage if side on to the breeze. So, here's what I do - boat set head to wind, forestays tied loose - about 200mm more than normal rigged position. Beachwheels positioned halfway between the forestay and main beam to give a good rearward slope. Raise the mast by walking up between the bows and vaning the mast if there are any sideways gusts. Let the mast rest back in a raked position and vaned to the wind. It can sit free while you connect the sidestays. Then tighten up the forestays to your normal tension. Dropping is the reverse procedure. The only time help should be needed is in over 20 knots or if the wind is really gusting around. Call a mate to hold a trapeze wire in that case. Don't want to break that expensive mast or belt someone on the head! It becomes easy with practice.

Cheers
AUS9

I do practically the same as ACE except I'm a bit lazier, I don't adjust the forestay lengths (ever) they are taped up! I also place a car carpet mat on the tramp as well just in case I need to put the mast down prior to lifting onto the mast step. I achieve my rig tension by pulling the traveller over to each side and attach the mainsheet to the relative trap wire, pull on mainsheet and fit the shroud eye and pin in the required hole position.
Each to there own devices I guess. However, Like Klaus and ACE if it's windy it's far better to swallow your pride and ask for help.

Don't forget to pin the mast base in the process.

Do I need to ask how you know that?

There is no pin 'hinge' facility on the mast base of the Bimare AJ or my friends Tool. I've seen them on the Saarberg masted FLYER. With both the Bim and Tool you just lift the mast to vertical in close proximity to the front beam and then when the time is right lift the whole mast up and onto to the boat. Sometimes it is necessary to tie the base of the mast loosely to the front beam to stop the base of the mast kicking away when you are either raising or lowering.

We used to do it like that in the early 80's - even with 15kg alloy masts, but always with two people. While one is lifting the base the other stabilises it with the forestays. It's pretty crude and takes practice. Get hold of the hinge system and you'll never look back. I'm sure Geltek could supply the parts - or maybe AHPC still stock them.

Cheers
AUS9

The only A Class I have owned without a hinge was a Unicorn with a Neddlespar mast, what a pain to step, and that was in the late sixties.Spend a little time and devise a hinge system , it saves the back.

Fred S

Interesting my 2004 Bimare has a pin... Why change it?