| Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: Ventucky Red]
#221461 10/11/10 03:53 PM 10/11/10 03:53 PM |
Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,203 uk TEAMVMG
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Posts: 1,203 uk | I have sat staring blankly at the wall for a while now and really can't think of anything that could be called a weak point on the inter 20! its a really good boat - congratulations!
One trick that I did learn was for when the rudders start to come up a fraction at speed, giving a bit of weather helm. the first instinct is to change or try and tighten the springs. But it is the pairs of rollers that are wearing. If you wrap some insulation tape around the top one to thicken it up a bit, it does the trick.
Paul
teamvmg.weebly.com
| | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: TEAMVMG]
#221500 10/12/10 08:55 AM 10/12/10 08:55 AM |
Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 129 Austin, TX BoK
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Posts: 129 Austin, TX | Check the bridle tangs for fractures.... Don't ask me how I know.
Bo Kersey Corsair 31-1D 276 | | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: BoK]
#221524 10/12/10 05:44 PM 10/12/10 05:44 PM |
Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,403 Ventucky Red OP
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Posts: 1,403 | Check the bridle tangs for fractures.... Don't ask me how I know. To quote that line form Dirty Harry "Hey...eyes gots to know" The spinnaker or the forestay jib pairs | | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: Ventucky Red]
#221531 10/12/10 06:48 PM 10/12/10 06:48 PM |
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 49 Israel, Sdot Yam Opher
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Posts: 49 Israel, Sdot Yam | Replace the eye screws that attach each rudder to the top gudgeon (Checking they look good is not enough - don't ask me how I know)
Opher Nacra F20C ISR1 F18 Cirrus ISR2 Sdot Yam, ISRAEL
| | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: Opher]
#221709 10/15/10 04:26 PM 10/15/10 04:26 PM |
Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 1,200 Vancouver, BC Tornado
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Posts: 1,200 Vancouver, BC | My last great race against the I20 fleet in SD had us pushing Brandon on the infamous Black boat pretty good...nipping at his heels as the breese came up. On the second of three beats, we were looking good to pass him for the first time on course when we split tacks. Knew it would be closer at the next cross...but we were denied our glory when his main traveller shackle-loop exploded, forcing him to pull up lame and we strolled to victory.
He stated that part was the original...never heard of one blowing up before. We walked around the yard checking other I20's and found one out of the six other boats had a stress crack in the same part.
Mike Dobbs Tornado CAN 99 "Full Tilt"
| | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: Tornado]
#221762 10/16/10 04:16 PM 10/16/10 04:16 PM |
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 49 Israel, Sdot Yam Opher
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Posts: 49 Israel, Sdot Yam | We actually had 2 parts blow in that neighbourhood: A bolt holding the main traveller shackle loop blew its head - you can't even see cracks without taking it apart. The becket in the center of the lower main main block, to which the sheet is spliced, blew. Both times we ended up jury rigging with spare dyneema we always carry aboard.
Opher Nacra F20C ISR1 F18 Cirrus ISR2 Sdot Yam, ISRAEL
| | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: ThunderMuffin]
#222667 10/26/10 07:59 AM 10/26/10 07:59 AM |
Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 3,655 Portland, Maine ThunderMuffin
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Posts: 3,655 Portland, Maine | Ok so what we have here is a solid piece of webbing. There's the bolt rope that goes into the slot, and then the holes burned into the webbing for the lacing. There's a 3/8" fiberglass backing rod to support it. The theory (that has worked for me): The reason why the old style tramps pulled out of the slot was because the groove in the hull expanded gradually over time. Then came the webbing straps - but the problem with that was that it only put pressure on the bolt rope at very specific points, like right at the daggerboard trunk, and that eventually pulled out of the slot too, or it slowly sliced itself apart over time. The solid piece of webbing with the fiberglass backing rod spreads the load out evenly before it gets to the bolt rope. Its worked for me, and worked well. Only thing to be careful about is the ends will fray. This set I ordered have reinforced ends to account for that. | | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: ThunderMuffin]
#225005 12/07/10 04:47 PM 12/07/10 04:47 PM |
Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 5,590 Naples, FL waterbug_wpb
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Posts: 5,590 Naples, FL | upper rudder gudgeon (and lower, for that matter) need to be welded on both top and bottom. Don't ask me how I know
Hounds on mast - check how stretched out the forestay attachment hole is.
Those were the only two things that ever gave me trouble... but I wasn't very hard on the boat.
Jay
| | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: waterbug_wpb]
#225202 12/10/10 04:26 PM 12/10/10 04:26 PM |
Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,403 Ventucky Red OP
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Posts: 1,403 | upper rudder gudgeon (and lower, for that matter) need to be welded on both top and bottom. Don't ask me how I know
Hounds on mast - check how stretched out the forestry attachment hole is.
Those were the only two things that ever gave me trouble... but I wasn't very hard on the boat. How was yours compared to this?
Last edited by Ventucky Red; 12/10/10 04:27 PM.
| | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: Ventucky Red]
#225272 12/11/10 01:53 PM 12/11/10 01:53 PM |
Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 49 Israel, Sdot Yam Opher
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Posts: 49 Israel, Sdot Yam | That's thin and slightly elongated. Just a matter of time till it breaks. We weld stainless steel washers on both sides of the lower hole. We also run a short 5mm dyneema line through the eyes of all 3 stays and loop it through the top (trapeze) shackle. That way, if the lower hole or shackle gives the mast stays up - Saved the day a couple of months ago.
Opher Nacra F20C ISR1 F18 Cirrus ISR2 Sdot Yam, ISRAEL
| | | Re: New to Inter/NACRA 20
[Re: Opher]
#225715 12/20/10 10:33 AM 12/20/10 10:33 AM |
Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 5,590 Naples, FL waterbug_wpb
Carpal Tunnel
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Carpal Tunnel
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Posts: 5,590 Naples, FL | That, and a lot of us used to shim the shackle that went into the hounds to avoid all the movement (which exaserbated the elongation/cracking). I used plastic shims since they were disposable. I basically cut up a plastic kitchen cutting board with a drill and set of bits. I also used SS washers but had trouble finding the right sizes..
I replaced my hounds when I started to see a small crack at the bottom of the fitting. Adding the shims seemed to correct the problem, but I didn't have as many years of sailing on the new hounds before the boat was sold, so I don't know how the modification worked long-term..
Jay
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