One of my kid's H14 rudder pins broke (the nylon/fiberglass type) and I need to replace them both, when I go shopping I see there are 3 types; staniless, alum. and nylon/glass.

Which should I get, and why. The nylon ones have been on there for a very long time, should I just go with that? Or is there any advantage in the stainless? (they cost twice as much)

Also, the tramp on it has the two holes/gromets for a jib block system (I think that's what they are for) but no wire under the tramp to hook them to, but it does have the tabs under the sidestay attachments. It's also got a dolphin striker and cross wire under the fwd. beam, so I think it had a jib at one time...?

I've been thinking of adding a jib to give it a little more power in the medium wind. Is adding a jib worth the money/effort, or just a pain in the butt when it comes time to tack, and do I also have to buy a new forestay (longer) or does that come with the jib kit?

Any other ideas to make this thing go in medium wind? It's a lot of fun when it's blowing 15-20+, but less than 15 I don't even bother with it.

Also...is anyone making a square top mylar main for them yet? I was also thinking of taking my old ragged out F16 square top and cutting off the bottom 8 feet, and running it on the H14. Has anyone tried that yet with a similar sail?

I used the nylon pins for years and had just one break.

Your 14 has the Turbo kit installed. All you're missing is the jib, sheets and blocks.

H14 Turbo Manual: http://www.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/e_turbojib.pdf

Thanks! I'll order the nylon set and take a look at the jib kit. From that picture, it looks like my forestay/bridal split is the same height, so I should be able to use it as is.

I use aluminum pins....cut my own out of stock from the hardware store. Nylon/fiberglass are for use in surf....had one break once and don't trust them. No idea why one would use stainless......more galvanic corrosion and more likely to rip transoms off. Regarding the jib addition, no one has mentioned that you also need a furler. Also, there's no separate fore stay on the stock system....the jib IS the forestay. So you either have to drop mast to remove jib every sail, make some major mods, let jib cook in sun for all it's life (which will only be about 6 months), or get a snorkle. Google Dan Berger in VA Beach VA....he's done the squaretop thing.....even added a hooter.

Solid stainless pins, hands down. They simply don't break. Order 3/8" round stock from McMaster Car, cut to length, drill a hole in the end, and you're good to go at 1/2 the price of what Hobie or Murrays wants.

Your transoms will not be damaged by using stainless pins unless 1) you back down a wave launching in the surf or 2) your transom was going to break anyway.

Aluminum and plastic pins will all break, hollow stainless will bend. If you use nylon busings in the rudder castings, galvanic corrosion isn't an issue. I would never use anything besides stainless (even in the surf).

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I go with aluminum. Its easy for the DIY sailor to make. I don't even go to the hardware store. I made a couple of sets from an aluminum bar in a worn-out lawn chair! -They look like original equipment. (And I should get a Tree Hugging Recycling Award.)

I found an 8 inch long, 3/8" carriage bolt at Home Dept for $1.39 and it fit perfectly, and I added a nut (12 cents) on the bottom instead of drilling for a pin.

BUT...it's right up against the drain plug so I'll have to remove the nut it to pull the plug out, but hey, for less than $2? No problem!