| Re: Hobie 18 forward bar inboard bolt replacement
[Re: rehmbo]
#274999 08/26/14 02:43 PM 08/26/14 02:43 PM | MN3
Unregistered
| MN3
Unregistered | I'm a big fan of tef-gel Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads when you reinstall it | | | Re: Hobie 18 forward bar inboard bolt replacement
[Re: Peterom]
#275000 08/26/14 03:21 PM 08/26/14 03:21 PM |
Joined: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,658 Florida Suncoast, Dunedin Caus... catman
Pooh-Bah
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Pooh-Bah
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,658 Florida Suncoast, Dunedin Caus... | The other three rivets in the kit are for the ream beam. The end caps are riveted on with three rivets.
The fun part about the front is getting the end caps off. Most often the striker rod has corroded to the end cap where it passes through.
Have Fun
| | | Re: Hobie 18 forward bar inboard bolt replacement
[Re: Peterom]
#275006 08/27/14 07:28 AM 08/27/14 07:28 AM |
Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 302 Daytona Beach Florida orphan
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 302 Daytona Beach Florida | If the bolt is broken you can just replace the bolt. This is what I did. Remove the front cross bar to see where the bolt had broken off. If you are lucky there may be enough of the bolt protruding from the cross bar to remove it using some vise grips. I had to use penetrating oil, a drill and an EASY-OUT to removed the bolt. Sometimes this is much easier than removing the end casting because the dolphin striker(stainless) has completely bonded(it passes thru) with the outside casting(aluminum). I would make sure I could get the outside casting off before I order the kit. If you just need to replace the bolt you may have to order the bolt from Hobie. You can buy the correct size stainless bolt but you may find the thread is not long enough. I used a die to extend the thread.
Last edited by orphan; 08/27/14 07:29 AM.
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