Over the last 25 years we have owned and raced the following boats, P16, P19, H20, F16. We have been out of sailing about 4 years and miss it too much. Though about a H16 but decided against the work required to only do 4 races a year. Decided to get a Wave just to be able to get back on the water without much work.

Found a 2004 Wave Classic that has the inside rails so the club tramp will fit, in excellent condition with trailer.

This model has the metal rudder castings with a flexible fiber joint to connect to the tiller cross bar.

Does anyone know if the H20 tiller connector kit from Murray's item number 07-1953 fits my boat? It looks like i would just have to cut my cross bar a little to get it to fit as long as the cross bar tube ID is correct.

Is it worth it to get a tiller? I am used to using one but not sure if it is necessary on the wave since my tiller cross bar is in front of the blocks.

I hate rudder slop. I shimmed the rudders around the bolts so the slop is gone there, but when the rudder is down there is still slop against the bottom part of the casting. Has anyone shimmed the inside of the bottom part of the casting to eliminate rudder slop?

I have the 10 hole adjuster on order so i can rake the mast but will wait to see if I need the club shrouds.

Plan on racing in October after i learn the boat a little.

I put the hobie20 tiller connectors on without much trouble.

Don't know your location, but we have a huge regatta coming up. The IWCA and HCA combined North American Championships at Put-in-Bay. We are expecting 30 to 40 Waves.
Great island and great fun there.., lots of parties and lots to do

Does anyone know if the H20 tiller connector kit from Murray's item number 07-1953 fits my boat? It looks like i would just have to cut my cross bar a little to get it to fit as long as the cross bar tube ID is correct.

Yes it fits and yes it's worth it. I put one on my boat (2004 with the tendon connectors). You just have to cut about an inch off the tiller connector. You might also take a look at the Hobie upgrade kit part number 1957. Not as adjustable but how often are you going to adjust them, once?

Is it worth it to get a tiller? I am used to using one but not sure if it is necessary on the wave since my tiller cross bar is in front of the blocks.

The boat is a lot more comfortable to sail with a tiller extension. You do have to learn a new tacking technique since, as you say, the extension now goes across in front of the connector not out behind.

I hate rudder slop. I shimmed the rudders around the bolts so the slop is gone there, but when the rudder is down there is still slop against the bottom part of the casting. Has anyone shimmed the inside of the bottom part of the casting to eliminate rudder slop?

Hobie sells a hard rubber shim that works great on the lower part of the rudder casting. There's also an aftermarket kit of hard plastic shims for the top.

I have the 10 hole adjuster on order so i can rake the mast but will wait to see if I need the club shrouds.

The more wind you sail in and the less you weigh the more rake you will need. I use the seven hole adjuster in the top hole. 'Nuf said.

Welcome to the fleet. This is really, really fun and also very quick and easy. Lovin' it!

Concerning the tiller.

Make sure you can you can tuck it out of the way in heavy air when you may want to hang on to the cross bar. Also, if the tiller interferes with the sail, when sheeted hard, you can put the tiller mount on the bottom or the front of the cross bar.

For interesting ideas on tillers check the Laser Forums. Some of the ideas have problems on cats. For example, springy tillers (big round fiberglass battens, laminated wood, split wood dowels, etc) are cheap and hard to break, but they store energy and if you bend and release them, they can whack you in a tender spot. The old solid fiberglass Hobie tillers are too stiff to bend. A broken one cut to length is cheap and almost indestructible.