I searched the posts but could not find it--know answer is out there somewhere--sorry for the duplication.

I have one of the original jib traveler set ups with a pin that you have to manually pop-up to move along the track to adjust the angle of the jib when running or heading to windward.

It looks like this diagram.
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=10632

Can someone please send me a picture and describe how you could rig a bungee to allow the traveller to move more easily when solo sailing? Hard to get up front to undo the pin sometimes. I imagine that it is a bungee or shock cord(?) tied off (to something?) and then something like rope or tape to hold the pin up permanently so that it does not go into the traveler track pin hole.

Advice welcome.

Pull the pin up and tie the shock cord with a clove hitch so that it the pin won't reset. Put a wire tie close to the knot to secure it.

Agreed with the bungee, except the proper implement to secure them is a stainless hog ring, not a wire tie, as those are liable to deteriorate when exposed to weather and UV light for long periods.

Mike

No hog ring in tool box, big bag of wire ties.

Hey thanks--will use shock cord and hog tie from local hardware store.

Where do you attach the non-traveler pin end of the line? Does it tie off to the corner casting? Probably a silly question but figured you would know..

thanks reuben

Don't get me wrong, a wire tie will work in a pinch, but he asked for "permanent" (or at least the life of a bungee, LOL).

West Marine carries hog rings, as do some hardware stores.

Mike

Thanks--any advice on the attachment of the other non-pin end?

Spend a few bucks and get a bullet-proof barber haul system.

http://www.catsailor.com/forums/ubb...s=barber+haul&Search=true#Post231560

As shown in the post attached above, you can simply use one bungee line, and connect the two cars to one another. The linked drawing shows a pad eye on the front of the crossbar, but you could just run it from one car, the under the front of the crossbar, then behind the dolphin striker post, and then out and up to the other car.

I used to use two bungees, and just run one from each car and tie it off on the dolphin striker. That way, I could get good tension without worrying about moving one car in to pull the other out. I may have been over thinking it at the time...

You mainly just want to keep the bungee away from the rotating mast base. If a bungee gets stuck in there, it will be destroyed.

Mike

1616 showed a good diagram. the bungee pulls the cars outboard, not inboard. You don't need the bungee, but you do need the outer turning blocks with some mini cleats.
We would cut the stop pin off the car and put it back in the track, inboard of the jib block. You can set the stop pin more out board for strong wind so that when you release the out pulling line from the cleat the jib block slides inboard, stopping at the stop pin. Other wise you have to pay attention to where you cleat off the jibcar for the next beat.

Your question about the mast base is rare. i didn't think a dolphin striker post could strip the treads of a mast base. They are generally fused. Anyway it's not a problem while sailing, the super cat 20 had a free floating dolphin striker post. It pushed down a couple inches under load.

Hey thanks. Need to study the diagram.

For quick fix I used shock cord, a couple of halyard knots under the traveler car pin to disengage it and a loop around the casting/pylon to ensure that it is drawn straight down the track. Hog ties to crimp shock cord and will get rubberweld rigging tape to cover seal the deal.

Primitive but I think it will work for now. The shock cord pull the car to the outside and the jib sheet pulls the car to the center.

Has to to be better than scrambling forward and unpinning it and re-pinning it!

I know that the set up that was described is the way to go--my other boat had a similar rig..


Will let you know how it sails!

Read the referencd post again. The bungees pull inward, the cheek blocks are used for the control lines to pull outward. Agree on the point about an inboard stop in the track. The boats have been coming from the factory like this for about 20 years now.

Mike

The bungee pulls the cars inboard, not outboard. The line through the cheek blocks pull the cars outboard to the corner castings.

You can get away without the bungee pulling the cars to center and letting the tensioned jib sheet do the job. I liked the positive return by using the bungee.