| Righting a Hobie Tiger (solo if possible) #36010 07/24/04 02:57 AM 07/24/04 02:57 AM |
Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 2 ace OP
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Posts: 2 | Any recomendations for righting a Hobie Tiger (solo if possible) would be appreciated. I am a newbie to cat sailing so the more descriptive the better ie. 1. swim to the boat  I am thinking of installing shroud extenders. Is there a danger of the mast coming off with the shroud extended? Is this the best system? How should the righting line be installed. What are the steps to right the boat. Tks | | | Re: it has a locking step
[Re: samevans]
#36013 07/26/04 03:03 AM 07/26/04 03:03 AM |
Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 1,012 South Australia Darryl_Barrett
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Posts: 1,012 South Australia | There is a standard procedure for righting any "beach cat" that works in all but the most extreme conditions (conditions when no one should really be out in), and it is like this When you know that the cat is about to hit the water, forget about sheeting lines etc (assuming you haven't ditched with the kite up then it is more awkward), and direct yourself to getting up on the bottom hull ASAP, stand up holding on to the dolphin striker strap with one hand and lean out away from the cat. This will stop the cat from "turtleing" to a full 180 degrees. by leaning out in this way the cat will stay at 90 degrees for as long as you "hang out". Next reach up with your free hand and pull down the righting rope from the underside of the trampoline (if there isn't a righting rope you desereve to "lose" the cat). Wrap one loop of the righting rope around your trapeze harness hook and clamp both ends of the rope at the hook with one hand, this will stop the rope from "running" and you can then let go of the striker strap and lean out supported by your harness. now take both the ropes as they come from your harness hook and "play" the rope out (still around the hook), untill you can reach back and just touch the water with one hand, making sure that your legs are straight (not bent at the knees) and your upper body and your legs are in a straight line, this will mean that your body is at approx' 45 degrees to the water (this is the maximum leaverage that you can exert with your body weight for righting). Now, maintaining that angle to the water and by letting out appropriate amounts of rope, walk as far towards the bow as you can. What now happens is that as your weight depresses the bow deeper into the water, the transom is lifted accordingly. This creates more resistance to sidesways movement of the cat at the bow and less at the stern. The result being that the cat will quite quickly come up head to wind. When it is head to wind, the wind travelling over the mast and sail(s) will lift the mast and the cat will come to rest, upright and head to wind with you in front of the front trampoline beam and in the middle of the hulls. If it is not coming up you are not head to wind BUt as soon as you are head to wind, the mast will "sail" up. Remember "if there is enough wind to ditch you, there is enough wind to right you". To get back onto the cat take hold of the front beam with both hands close together and raise your elbows over the beam and onto the tramp. Then swing one leg sidesways onto the deck of one hull just in front of the beam, use your leg to raise your weight so that your body is horizontal and vertually level with the tramp then roll onto the tramp backwards. The cat should be quite stable and manageable as it is "in irons" as it is still head to wind. By useing this method, one person can right most beach cats single handed with the minimum of effort. The worst thing a person can do when righting a cat is to hang on the righting rope by their hands and "PULL"! They cannot exert any more leverage than their own weight BUT by "pulling" they are exerting a very exhausting "Isometric" exercise, and can completely exhaust themselves in a matter of minutes, that is why it is always much better to support yourself by your harness and relax. Darryl | | | Re: it has a locking step
[Re: samevans]
#36014 07/26/04 11:57 AM 07/26/04 11:57 AM |
Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 284 S. Florida BRoberts
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Posts: 284 S. Florida | Hi Sam, You are right,I have only seen the newer Hobie cat products from a distance. I am flattered when one of the beach cat companies copies one of my ideas and puts it into production. It does rub me the wrong way a little when a boat company copies one of my ideas and calls it theirs and claims it is an advancement in the state of the art and it was on a production SC or ARC product 10, 20, 30 years ago. When it comes to safety items, I wish they would all copy all of them. Many of the safety appointments I designed into the original SC product line came from problems sailors were having with the H14s and 16s back in the 1960s and 70s. Example: The first Hobies had no connection between the mast base and mast step to aid in raising and lowering the mast. The technique used at that time was for the crew to hold down on the base of the mast at the step while the other sailor, usually larger and stronger, raised the mast while standing at the back of the trampoline and them walking it up to a position where the forestay could be connected. This worked fine at the local boat ramp until one day when a sailor was taking his girl friend sailing and she was holding bottom of the mast at the step, the lifter raised the mast with a jerk from his waist to his shoulder. This also caused a sudden jerk at the base of the mast and the mast slipped between her hands. The mast hit her in the face knocking out some teeth, splitting her upper lip and breaking her nose. I rushed her to the emergency room at the local hospital. That experience, Sam, is the scar tissue I had at the time, 1976, I designed the captive mast step and ball for the SC product line. Several other beachcat companies have now copied the design and I am glad they have. Bill | | | Re: it has a locking step
[Re: Darryl_Barrett]
#36016 07/27/04 09:20 AM 07/27/04 09:20 AM |
Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 284 S. Florida BRoberts
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Posts: 284 S. Florida | Darryl, I'm sorry I never made it down to Australia to see all of the sailboat inventions. I won the right to represent the US FD class in the World Championships that were held in Australia several years ago and then at the last minute US Sailing, called USISA at the time, didn't have the money to send me and my crew. My catanaran background at the time I designed the SC product line consisted of Hobies,Prindles and a few Tornados. I apologize for being so shallow but that is all that was here in S Florida at the time. I was a monohull sailor at the time and never owned a catamaran. The mast step that I came up with was a ball and socket with a pin that locks the cup, the socket, onto the ball. The mast step can act as a hinge while raising and lowering the mast and when the mast is in the sailing position, it is free to rotate with the pin still in place. When the shroud extension is activated in case of a turnover, the mast cannot come off the ball and the mast is still free to rotate. I had never seen a mast step with those features before when I designed the one for the SC. I never used the word "invent" relative to this part. I do not have a patent on it. That is your word and your claim about me. Please do not ever do that again. Bill
Last edited by BRoberts; 07/27/04 10:06 AM.
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[Re: BRoberts]
#36017 07/27/04 07:23 PM 07/27/04 07:23 PM |
Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 1,012 South Australia Darryl_Barrett
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Posts: 1,012 South Australia | Bill I use the same system on the Alpha Omegas, except that now that the front beams are in carbon and no longer require a dolphin striker, the cup is on the beam and the ball is in the mast base. for years we used a captive mast base that was quite a bit different, It consisted of a stainless steel conical pin in the mast base with a SS cup on the beam (formed on top of the D/striker that passed through the beam) and there were two SS plates, one fixed under the cup and one that would pivot independent of the mast rotation above the "pin". These two plates were pinned together with a clevis pin so that the mast could be raised and lowered and sailed with the mast attached to the beam.It works well but there are more parts than the cup and ball. We used it first (the SS one) in about 1972 and used to buy them off the shelf. The cup and ball idea I borrowed from a combination of variations that were around in the late 70's, particularly on the first 5.2 N.A.C.R.A. So you sailed FD's?? we, (The Fibreglass Factory) have the only FD moulds registered with the FD association here in Australia and they are made now with carbon fibre, aramids and any other thing that the association thinks is "high tech". We keep telling them that it doesn't matter how "high tech" the materials are that are used in their manufacture, if they realy want to go high tech then they should bring the FD out of the 19th century as a design and try to make it more 21st century. They are not impressed when we say that! Darryl | | | Re: Righting a Hobie Tiger (solo if possible)
[Re: ace]
#36020 07/28/04 01:55 AM 07/28/04 01:55 AM |
Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 241 Simi Valley, CA jfint
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Posts: 241 Simi Valley, CA | Wow, this poor guy just wants to turn his boat back right-side-up. Mr. Roberts, Mr. Evans, Mr. Barrett. I'm sure you are all my supperior in knowledge and ability, so I won't mention sailing towards you, but please, if you have something constructive for this poor guy, tell him, if not, lets start another thread for this, or better yet, do it via email. I'll admit, that reading it is entertaining, so I really won't mind a thread dedicated to this sort of talk. But please not in a thread where some poor soul needs a question answered.
To the orriginal poster, I hope you found something usefull in the responses. Mr. Barrett seems to cover everything I would have to say about your problem in his first post. | | | Re: Righting a Hobie Tiger (solo if possible)
[Re: jfint]
#36021 07/28/04 10:08 AM 07/28/04 10:08 AM |
Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, Mike Hill
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Posts: 833 St. Louis, MO, | When did this become the let's bash Bill thread. Ease up guys.
Bill, many of us appreciate your posts. I realize that sometimes when posts are written the exact meaning is not always conveyed. Please keep posting and giving your informed point of view.
Mike Hill Tiger #1520
Mike Hill N20 #1005
| | | Re: Righting a Hobie Tiger (solo if possible)
[Re: ace]
#36023 08/16/04 12:28 AM 08/16/04 12:28 AM |
Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 736 Westport, Ma. U.S.A. Brian_Mc
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Posts: 736 Westport, Ma. U.S.A. | Ace, If your shrouds have thimbles the extenders should work. I think they are a good safety item to have, but I know a number of people don't trust the hollow quick release pins that came on mine. I plan on switching to spring loaded toggle pins if I reinstall the extenders. I have never used the extenders, but have had them recommended by other 17 sailors. As I understand it, the key is to loosen the shroud, right the boat bows into the wind, and then while hooked onto/or pulling on the trap wire, tighten the shroud. This avoids the falling mast routine. Good luck! Righting poles, and bags are good too! | | | Re: Righting a Hobie Tiger (solo if possible)
[Re: BRoberts]
#36026 08/16/04 11:47 AM 08/16/04 11:47 AM |
Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 3,528 Looking for a Job, I got credi... scooby_simon Hull Flying, Snow Sliding.... |
Hull Flying, Snow Sliding....
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Posts: 3,528 Looking for a Job, I got credi... | Hi Josh, A few years ago I learned another way to right a beach cat by yourself. This is how I right the RC30. Put a drag chute in the water off the bow. This will turn the boat hulls parallel to the wind. Then go to the stern and sheet the main in firm and put max slack in the traveller control line. Push/stand on the traveller car/mainsheet and push the car and leech of the mainsail down to the water. The mainsail will inflate and the lift generated by the mainsail will right the boat. The boat will continue to hang on the drag/drough chute until you are ready to sail again and have retreived the chute. It's easy. Bill Now this sound interesting - I find my 17 a struggle when I tip it in. Once the mast starts to lift I assume at somepoint you need to go from standing on the mainsheet block / traveller to onto the tramp (to get out of the way of the main boom as it come up and then dump the main sheet....Could you take me (and I assume others) thru' this step by step....
F16 - GBR 553 - SOLD I also talk sport here | | | Re: Righting a Hobie Tiger (solo if possible)
[Re: Mary]
#36029 08/17/04 09:38 AM 08/17/04 09:38 AM |
Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 190 Long Island, NY Steven Bellavia
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Posts: 190 Long Island, NY | Hi,
I have a question regarding shroud extenders (Hyfield Levers ?):
Since most cats are 8 or 8.5 feet wide, and most people aren't that tall, how do you reach the shroud extender (hyfield lever) to release it? Even standing on the inside of the bottom hull, and reaching, I cannot reach my shroud. If you try climbing up, you will most likely flip the boat the other way or turtle it again.
Steve Hobie FX-1, Sail #211
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