Getting back working on my epoxy repair. Just sanded it flush with the gelcoat. There are a few low spots. Could I spread some more bog into them and stretch saran wrap across it to make it smooth? It's polyethylene, right? You listening Dave?

Thanks,
Danno

I've always used wax paper. I think it would come out a little flatter with wax paper.

Mike Hill

Thanks, Mike.

The repaired area is at the bow tip. So it makes an almost 90 degree inside curve. Will I be able to do this curve with wax paper, or anything else, for that matter?

Danno

hello,
saran wrap is pretty thin. it might work for that or it might rip as you try and remove it. i think a 2 mil plastic is better.
to fill a low spot with bog, sometimes it is better to build a well with masking tape, then grind it fair. you may be able to polish your fairing job, or you may need to do a finish coat depending on how many pinholes in the surface.

I would recommend either 2 pieces of wax paper or one folded piece. I would probably try two pieces and then you just have to sand the edge where they come together which is pretty easy.

Mike Hill

Thanks, guys.

I started it today. Got 3 mil polyethylene. I filled the straight part first and will tackle the curved when it cures. Speaking of which, I got an orange blush when I first epoxied the skegs. Started in 60 degree weather, cured in the 40's at night. I was told not to worry, just buff it off, sanding wouldn't be needed. It's in a nearly invisible place on the cat, but it certainly doesn't buff off. I've sanded a bit. It's colored fairly thick.

I don't think I'd be at risk for having this happen again, since the epoxy is curing under the plastic, where no excess moisture can get to it, right? But just to be safe, I closed up the canopy and put a couple heaters in it, one at each bow. Probably 55-60 in there, 45-50 outside.

Ciao,
Danno

Temperature is so important when doing these jobs. It really can't be stressed enough. Make sure you do the job within the recommended temperature. In fact keep the ingredients inside at room temperature before working on the project. The most important part is the initial firing off of the epoxy. Once it starts to go in the first hour you are usually good to go because it then generates it's own heat. I would have to read the recommendations for your particular epoxy but I wouldn't start in 60 degree weather unless that was within the limits listed on the can.

If you mess up and it doesn't go off then you have to start all over with an even bigger mess.

Mike Hill

Good point, Mike. It says it's good down to 40 degrees. And I did mix at room temp. Proof will be in the pudding.

Danno

Danno,

Try aluminum flashing, or thin aluminum sheeting - wax paper leaves a texture if you dont get it flat, Saran Wrap would be worse.

I have used flashing and the finish on the flashing side is perfect.

Home depot carries both.

Bill

Hmm... could the aluminum flashing be formed to the complex curves at the bow?

I checked my job this morning: PE film came off fine, finish nice and smooth, with waves where I couldn't get it to lie flat. But that's sandable. Now I'll move to the curved part. Maybe overlapping the visquine would work? Should only leave a ridge 3mil high at the interface.

Danno

Danno- Use sections of (used) overhead or Xerox clear sheets. It MUST be the kind that survives heating in the xerox machine- then will not melt in epoxy or polystyrene resin OR stick to it. The trick is to get the right amount underneath as you are rolling on your piece of film- and taping down the edges. Not too little = air bubbles-- not too much = bumps. But it will be glass smooth in the morning!

I use cooking (grease proof) paper and my kids playdough to make the appropiate shape(s) that I then cover in grease proof paper or tin Foil -

Thanks, again folks.

After the epoxy and visquine, I sanded it with 80 grit, wiped with acetone, and sprayed on some primer suggested by the guy at Lowe's. White shellac. When it dried 20 min later, I put on the first coat of exterior latex. Had taken a hundred color cards home, went back and picked up the closest match. The paint was room temp, applied to ~60 degree hulls with a foam brush. It's dry to the touch now and I can still see the brush strokes close up. Anyway to avoid or get rid of this? I mean you can't see it unless you get within a foot of the hull. At that point you can notice the perfectly smooth original gelcoat compared to the brush strokes of the new painted area.

FYI: I'm getting the surfaces warmed into the 60's with a couple space heaters and tenting plastic. Otherwise it's just now hitting 50, the expected high for today.

Put down the brush and stand back from the latex. Go with West Marine or equivalent gel coat. Shoot it on, let it cure, and sand/polish down. Perfect for the marine environment.

shellac, latex exterior? How old was this guy at Lowes- 85? Sheesh. Stuck in the 1920s!