I would like to re-paint the front beam on my Mystere 5.0XL (1995). For some reason Mystere did not use anodized aluminum and it resulted in terrible flaking paint on older Mystere beams and masts. I got the forward beam off easily but I cannot get the dolphin striker V-strap loose from the beam. It's held on with two Allen-head bolts on each end. (see photo) I've bent my Allen keys and bits trying to loosen them. If I break these bolts is there a mounting plate within beam that I could replace? Any suggestions?

Can you anodize aluminum that has been painted? I was told that you cannot, no matter how carefully you clean the metal.

David Parker
Dunedin, FL

I know the Nacra 6.0 does have a nutplate inside the beam for these dolphin striker bolts. I would imagine that the Mystere does too (you should be able to see it from the end of the beam).

You CAN anodize aluminum after removing the paint - however, chances are that it will not have a very consistent appearance. Any imperfection, bit of corrosion, or the tiniest of paint spec will leave a much larger mark in the anodizing coating. It will, however, have great future corrosion resistance as expected from an anodized component.

Dave, The only way to do it is to use heat and a impact driver. A propane torch should provide enough heat. A impact driver works by placing a (in your case) allen head with a 3/8's drive and hitting the end with a hammer. Hitting it drives the allen head down (helping prevent slipping) and at the same time the allen head turned. If that won't do it then the right size drill bit and a drill press will! I'll be there for the race on Sunday bring it down and I'll look at it or I'll bring the driver and you can have at it.

I looked at anodizing mine and found out there is no one in the state that does it. There are companys that do it in FLA. but only for themselves. We can talk about how to get the old paint off and what to paint it with too.

Bout time you did something with it. You were bringing the "HOOD" down with that flaking boat.

I'd recommend not to use heat (propane torch) to loosen to strapping bolts...heat will destroy the beam's alloy temper, which will lead to a stress failure.

Mike.

If done right you can use heat to soften up the corrosion without damaging the beam. I've have done it before and it works. I have never had a faliure due to heating to remove corroded parts. Seems to me it would be better to get it apart and see what you have and arrest the corrosion that's already going on.

I know Dave and I know he hasn't taken the boat completly apart since he bought it and he won't be satisfied until he does.

Put an electric impact wrench on it (with a high carbon allen wrench head) after donning a pair of safety glasses. Run the electric impact wrench untill you have sheared the bolt.

Now buy new hardware and use marine grease or antisieze on the parts when you re-assemble.

Buy new hardware even if you don't shear the bolt. You may fatigue the bolt with all the flexing it will undergo while forcing it out of there.

GARY

My impact wrench is the handheld kind you whack with a hammer. Works great on rusted cars. However, it has a 3/8 drive and I cannot find a 3/8 drive 7/32 allen head. I'll keep looking since the typical L-shaped allen keys have all bent over under force (a 3 foot extension). I've got several wild-eyed torch waver pals who will heat the bolt before I whack it. I guess Catman is worthy since he has a Mystere 6.0 and wouldn't purposely hurt another Mystere, especially one he should beat upwind and down (mine's a 5.0).