I hope this isn't a dumb question. I've read a lot of posts about this subject, but this part seems to be "glossed over". Just for safety sake, I would like to use the trap lines as stabilzers, but from what I've read, they say to "leave slack in the extension lines you tie from the trap line to the pylon" so you have enough slack to go all the way up. How much approximate slack do you need to leave? I tried it a couple of times, and both times got hung up by not enough slack. If I let them out much more, they won't help stop the mast from swinging off to the side anyway. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

I don't quite understand how you are set up. Why would you tie extension lines from the trap to a pylon? My trap lines are connected from port to starboard with bungee cord.They stretch and are neither stabilizing nor safety lines. I raise my mast solo all the time. Shrouds need to be connected. I lay the mast on the boat with a tripod at the end to keep the weight off the main traveler slide. I then tie a line from the jib halyard to the front bridle, make sure the shrouds and trap lines won't catch on the pylons and raise the mast. I lean into the mast, untie the jib halyard and pull it tight, tie it off on the cleat and get down to fasten the forestay.

Howard

The way I understand it, the trap lines are tied to the front pylons, to stop the mast from swaying to one side in case of a stiff breeze or something, until the mast is high enough, so the shrouds take over. The main reason I worry is that I have to put the boat together in an area with power and phone lines... not directly overhead, but If I were to lose control, it could get nasty fast. I know it isn't absolutely necessary, but I'd rather not end up fried. better safe than sorry.

I used the trap wires for balance purposes a few times. IIRC i tied to the cornercastings rather than to the pylons. I did not include much slack in my setup, since the pylons are in line with the mast base. There is a slight difference in height between mast base and corner casting. This is the amount of slack I would be aming for. In my setup the lines and the knots allowed for some "elasticity".

Howard... this is just a temporary setup while stepping the mast. Once the mast stays up by it self. He will use the shock cord to connect the two sides of the trap wire.
Patrick

How much slack in the trap / stabalizer lines?

Start the first time with the mast already up. Tie to the posts with line lead around front of crossbar. Get the lines snug and mark them in some way. They will loosen on the way down. Next time, retie using the markings you made for proper slack.

Thanks a lot! I guess I'm an idiot, but I was trying to utilize all the trap wires, so I tied two to the front pylon and two to the back. I'll do the corner castings instead, and just use the front. Makes a LOT more sense than what I was doing. I generally try to enlist help when I can, but with the nearby power lines, this will add a bit of safety for the helpers as well.

I can see why you want to prevent the mast from falling off to the side if there are power lines. It sounds as if the area where you step the mast is too dangerous. I would look for a safer place.

Howard

There is an other pro trap wire argument... if you rigg some kind of support system (can be made up from PVC pipe) that supports the mast about a meter above the tramp, you could use a winch mounted to the trailer to raise the mast. Safe and controled - and healthy for the back.

Patrick

I'd love to hear how you made a mast raising pole out of PVC. Have been trying to think of a good material that is easy to work with.... PVC would fit the bill on both counts.

I swiped an idea from Hunter marine. I used two pieces of 3/4 plywood ripped down to 2 1/4" wide. I drilled a hole in one end on both pieces and ran a short length of rope through the holes, tied knots in the end so it doesn't slip through. I set the free ends of the plywood in the gap in the tramp at the back pylons, raise the mast and jam the rope against the mast to hold it up. This is good enough to hold it up until I get the front shroud line attached. Simple, and cheap.

Another easy way to do it is to put a log under each stern. When you solo right your mast now with your shrouds attached, the mast leans forward by gravity. Just jump down off the tramp with your forestay in hand and hook it up to the bridles. I've done it this way many times but be careful if you've raked your mast back alot. Just be careful, mine's max raked and I still do it this way if there's nobody around to hold the mast upright.

I always solo raise my mast. Before I raise the mast I tie a line about 6 or 8' long to the bridle and to the jib halyard. When I raise the mast, I lean into it and pull the jib halyard tight. I tie off the jib halyard and can get down to fasten the forestay. It actually makes it easier because it holds the bridle up. Remember to slack off the jib sheets before raising the mast or the bridle will be held down and not be high enough to reach the forestay. This method came out of an old Hobie Hotline.

Howard

Great idea Howard, I'm gonna try this next time (this week). Sounds logical and straight forward, etc. Easier than lifting stern or trying to rig a stop for the mast. Cool idea!

I've used that method a few times and it works pretty well but there is one problem. When you have the jib halyard tight holding the bridle up in place, the extra rope is occupying the space where the say needs to be, so it kind of makes them come together at a slight angle instead of dead on. It doesn't seem like much difference there, but overall it can make the stay be an inch or 2 too loose. Now if you had a metal clip that could hold onto the bridle and go out an around the stay so it's not in the way, THAT would be perfect. I like the idea of tilting the boat slightly though. It seems to be more practical.

aaronhoy,

The forestay will go slack anyway once the jib is up so why worry about it being tight. I have seen a rig where there was a second adjuster on the bridle that the forestay fastened to. There was a short bungee cord that pulled the upper adjuster at a right angle after the jib was up. The pupose was to tension the otherwise slack forestay so it didn't rub on the jib. I also don't tie the line to the adjuster, I tie it to the shackle below it.

Howard

yeah I tie it down there too, it still deflects it though. and yeah It doens't have to be real tight but you wont want ti really loose either in case anythign happens and if you're gonna be storing it like that. One time we had a storm come in and it popped the base of my mast out of the socket and it fell.

I can understand that if you store the boat with the mast up you want to minimize the play and possible wear. I don't have the luxury of leaving the mast up so I am more concerned with raising and lowering it. There used to be a solo righting device that lengthened one shroud to allow the boat to start coming over more easily. Part of that rig was a device to tie the mast in the socket so it wouldn't come out when the shroud was lengthened. That might be something you want to consider.

I find that using the halyard to pull the bridle up makes it easier to get the forestay in a lower position than a crew man can reach. He has to pull down the forestay, hold up the bridle and fumble with a pin while you are leaning into the mast. The suggestion to put logs under the rear of the hulls would probably work but isn't practical for me since I step the mast while the boat is on the trailer.

Howard

I am about to try a new idea. I bought a galvanized steel pole and put a wooden rod down the middle. I am bolting this to the front of the trailer and adding a block to the top. I have taken an extra line and tied it to the Jib shackle and have run it through the block and down to the crank. I have also pushed the back of the railer up onto car racks-- like the ones you use to change oil-- these are 30 dollars at walmart. I then have built a wood tripod to sit the back of the mast on so as to not break the pin attached to the mast at the base. I also am taking the trap lines and attaching them to the corner. This was I can raise the entire mast without much effort. I haven't had a chance to try it yet. But Physics says it will work.

aah yes physics is not always to be trusted.... but no seriously that does sound like it will work. Seems like alot of work just to step the mast though, i wonder if its worth it.