Any tips on how to sail a Hobie 16 single handed, without having to reef the main sail?

Hi Krappie, I sail my H16 single handed all the time. Lemme know what kind of info you're after and I'll be happy to pass on anything I can.

Take care
Ron

Move to the Hobie 14/16 forum... there are plenty of people who sail a Hobie 16 solo. Reefing is not really required. At some point in the late 80's or early 90's the reefing option was eliminated for the Hobie 16's. Get a good harness, develop good techniques, and in case your body weight is below 150 lb, better nutrition is the best advice for solo sailing a Hobie 16. Oh,... get some device to help you right the capsized boat (water bag, solo right,...) Patrick

Hi Ron
Sometimes it is difficult to get a crew member. How can one set up the yacht so that it is less likely to capsize or pitch pole? I like to sail on the edge, but righting a 16 on your own is no fun.
Cheers
Heinz

Agree with Patrick Krappie, as a basic starter, get the H16 tuning guide and learn the basic techniques of sailing the H16. Learning how to power up/down your rig on/off the water will help you control stronger winds.
Whole heartedly agree with getting yourself a solo right system. This needs to be done first so you can relax and enjoy your day on the water. A mast-top float also helps if you'll be out alone in stronger winds to keep yourself from turtling.

Heinz,
Crew member - same as me. In the tuning guide, they recommend shroud and forestay lengths to conservatively rake your mast backwards. When you do this, the tendency to pitchpole is greatly reduced. When you do this, you'll probably need to rake your rudders forward a little due to the increased weather helm you'll now experience from the mast being raked back. Other "musts" - carpet or other non-slip on your sidebars and foot stays/holder on your side bar and one on the aft-most hull (for your aft foot on a screamning high wind reach)
Re solo righting, I wrote a paragraph or two in the H16 forum about how I use a right bag, I'll go try and locate if for you if I can.
Other ideas. I have my jib sheet as two separate lines with a plastic snap on the free end that I snap to my trapeze shock cord (so it's always available to you when on the trapeze.
You'll probably want to rig your jib traveller so that it can be adjusted (explained in most all H16 guides, hardware available from Rick White's store and others). The line from the jib traveller I have shock corded to the aft most foot holder so it also is within easy reach when trapped out.
Also- if you're sailing alone, you'll be getting tired sheeting in/out your main so I purchased a nice Harken 8:1 low profile block - easier on the arms.
Cheers
Ron

I have heard it said that sailing without a jib and raking the mast forward is the way to go. Anybody out there tried it?
Heinz

No. But highly recommend using your jib and raking mast backward!!

I actually found the 16 easier to sail solo than with crew. That is probably due in part to my being of a "heavy weather" build. I liked the extra room on the tramp and there was no one to bring the jib across too early during a tack. I found the 16 to be a great solo boat.

Just like others have said, keep the mast raked back but keep some weather helm so if you go overboard you won't have to swim too far. Get at least a 6:1 low profile block. It will save your arms on a long day. Remember, the higher the ratio the more line you will have to pull to sheet in the main and the more you will have to let out to handle any gusts.

As far as pitch poling, just watch the gusts and set your sails accordingly. You can spill more air and still fly a hull with only one aboard.

I even had my trailer rigged so I could raise and lower the mast solo. I didn't need anyone to help when I wanted to go sailing. It's also nice if your "crew" is more of a figurehead than an actual crew member.

As long as your mast is sealed and with a little help from the wind, a 250lb person can right the 16 solo. You can even get it up froma turtled position, but it is a very slow process.

Just feel the boat out, don't get to **** too soon, and have a blast flying around solo.

i sail mine singlehanded with and without the jib. i weigh 150-155. if the wind is blowing < 10kn i use the jib. i can fly a hull trapped out in anything > 10kn , its easier for me to leave the jib off when the breeze goes above about 12 kn. i used to sail h14 so tacking without a jib is no problem in fact tacking the 16 jibless seems easier than the 14 did. i think its extra weight helps the 16 shoot through the tack easier. i also like the simplicity and better visibility of sailing 'uni'.

I agree with Nick. I also find it much easier to sail the H16 single handed - fun and relatively easy to do when trapped out and all your lines are fixed/bungied to the aft area of the tramp. Once you get comfortable trapped out, you'll probably find it easier/more fun then when sitting on the tramp.
As you/we all know, the H16 is a great boat but with 280 lbs plus, it's hulls are small and becomes "sluggish". That being said, I've had a few great days in 20+ knots doubled trapped with my brother in Kingston, Ont on Lake Ontario on his H16 in the screaming reach zone. Awwwwwwwsome...

Thanks for all the helpful responses. Will try to implement your suggestions. I am interested in finding out how the trailer was rigged to step the mast single handed. Wife does not enjoy helping as she nearly had a mast land on her.

Thanks for all the responses re sailing a H 16 single handed. Hope to try your advice. I am interested in finding out how to fix up the trailer so I can step the mast by myself.
Thanks
Heinz

Kappie,

The trailer rigging for single handed stepping is really simple. I will try to describe it in words here. If you need a drawing let me know and I will post one.

Material List:
- 2 pcs 1.5" or 2" dia., 8' galvanized conduit. (I forgot which size I used)
- 2 pcs of 5/16" hex head bolts, preferably stainless, length depends on the rest of your setup
- 1 pcs of an eye bolt with a 5/16" thread on it.
- 3 pcs of 5/16" nylok nuts, preferably stainless
- 6 pcs 5/16" washers, preferably stianless
- 2 pcs of 1" x 1" x 2" scrap piece of metal. I used 1" square tubing I found in my company's scrap bin.
- I found everything but the scrap pieces at Home depot/Lowes

The idea is to form am A frame that is attached to your trailer so it can pivot about the bottom of the A between your boat and the mast support. I am assuming the trailer has a winch on it and the boat has at least one set of trap wires.

1)Take a hammer and flattened about 1"-2" of the ends on both pieces of the conduit. Keep the ends on the same piece paralell to each other. Then drill a clearance hole for a 5/16" bolt in each of the ends you just flattened.

2)Drill the same holes through both of the scrap pieces. If you are going to bolt them to your trailer then drill appropriate holes for mounting the blocks. Keeping in mind you will need to have one hole to attach to the conduit.

3)Weld or bolt (you will need extra hardware to bolt) the scrap metal to your trailer such that on each piece the 5/16" clearance hole is horizontal and perpendicular to the trailer tounge. I located mine where the bend is on the two outside rails where they angled in toward the tounge. This happened to be just in front of the forward cross bar on the boat when it was loaded onto my trailer properly. The idea is to create a wide base.

4)Take your eye bolt and, using the threaded end with the appropriate nut and washers, attach the two pieces of conduit at one end. This will form the vertex of the A frame. Make this joint tight. We want as little play here as possible.

5)Attach each of the other ends to one of the scrap blocks you have mounted to your trailer. Do not tighten too much. The A frame should pivot on these bolts.

To use this rig:

1)Keep the boat strapped to the trailer (this is very important). Position the mast for stepping and insert mast base pin. You may need to use a support near the top of the mast.

2)Tie one set of trapeeze lines to the front cross bar just inside of the corner castings (on the H16 and probably H14). This gives you lateral support while raising the mast when the side stays cannot. Use your judgement on other boats where to attache the trap wires.

3)Rotate the A frame to a vertical position.

4)Attach the forestay directly or with a piece of line to the eye bolt at the vertex of the A frame.

5)Attach the winch line to the eye bolt at the vertex of the A frame.

6)Use the winch to hoist the mast. You will be rotating the A frame forward towards the mast support on the trailer.

7)The trap lines and side stays will work togeather through the full range of motion to keep the mast from going to far to one side. Some movement here is OK.

8)When the mast is fully raised take one of the supporting trap wires and tie it to the eye bolt.

9)Now disconnect the forestay from the eyebolt and attach it to the bridle. The trap wire will temporarily act as the forestay so you can attach the actual forestay.

10)Put all of the rigging back were it belongs and continue your boat set up.

I lean the A frame on my mast support and bungie it or tie it there during trailering. I was also able to position my mast by myself. I am a fairly large guy. If you are not comfortable moving a mast around solo, you may want her to help you get it positioned. Then she can relax after that. You may need to add some extra line to the forestay or trap wires. Carefully experiment to see what the apppropriate lengths will be.

If anyone would like a drawing of the set up, please let me know.

I hope this helps and good luck.

I appreciate that you can create a mechanism to help raise the mast but I think if you are of reasonable strength it is all unnecessary. I am 71 years old, average build, and raise my mast myself on an H-16 with a simple homemade tripod and an 8' length of line. The tripod is set a few feet behind the boat to hold the mast so the weight doesn't rest on the traveler track and so you can put the pin in. The line extends the length of the jib halyard. One end ties to the jib halyard and the other to the bridle. Make sure the shrouds and trap wires won't catch on the corner castings and raise the mast. Lean into it, reach down and tighten the jib halyard so it holds the mast up, then get down and fasten the forestay. Before you raise it make sure the jib sheets are uncleated (assuming you fasten the jib sheet shackle to the bridle adjuster as I do for trailering). Lowering the mast is just the reverse. Set the tripod up, tighten the jib halyard, make sure the pin is in, and loosen the forestay. Then get on the boat, lean into the mast, loosen the jib halyard and lower the masts into the tripod. It picks up a little speed on the way down but is not unmanageable.

Howard

Howard,

I really like that process. Way more simple and cost effective.

I admit, I made my contraption before I knew much about my boat. I should have folled the KISS principle.

I wish I could take credit for it but I actually found it described in an old Hobie Hotline. I used tie a line to the trailer mast support, put the loose end over my shoulder, raise the mast and then tie the loose end to the mast to hold it up. The jib halyard is much easier and holds the bridle up to make it easy to put in the pin.

Howard