Since there has been a lull in posts this week, I figured - what da heck - I`ll ask another question that has been on my mind.

Is there an appreciable/noticable difference in the sheeting EFFORT required when comparing the 5:1 and 6:1 setup.?? I already understand the low-profile benefit of the 6:1 setup. I am just concerned with the ease of sheeting.

I have found the 5:1 blocks to be pretty tough to sheet down hard after a number of repetitions. As I mentioned in my last post, through the season I`ve had to do a lot of tacking and jibing on small bodies of water - in and out on the mainsheet constantly. After a few hours of flying my hulls, I can feel some strain in the bicepts tendons and some strain in the muscles between the ribs. I am no weakling (used to arm-wrestle semi-pro) and I still find this can be a real workout.

Does the 6:1 (with a %20 advantage over the 5:1) help much?


Dave

Dave,

There is a difference in effort between the two. I sailed with the 5 to 1 for years and there were times when it took 2 hands to tighten the sheet. I am sure I don't have the arm strength you do but never found it that tiring. One question- do you have the ratchet on or off on the blocks? With it off the line runs out free and the block turns, with it on the line has to slide over the block which won't turn in that direction. I found that makes a big difference in the effort you have to apply to hold the sheet.

Howard

I used the 6:1 on my H16 and I now use a 7:1 on my TheMightyHobie18. Big difference on the H16 with the 6:1. I would sail for about 8-10 hrs on a good day and my arms were no more fatigued than the rest of my body. On medium to heavy air I would use the ratchet on the main block. If you have it reaved correctly when you sheet in the ratched wheel will spin. When you sheet out the ratchet wheel will not spin (hence the ratchet). Applying a slight force (by pulling) on the main sheet will "lock" it into the block without cleating off. This makes a huge difference after a few hours on the water. Being able to hold the main sheet in your hand so you can sheet out when you need to is great.

Go for the 6:1 set up.

Howard,

I have used the rachet both ways, but have never paid much attention to it or the difference it makes. Lately though, I usually have it turned off. I always sheet with one hand against the resistance. The only time I use both hands is to gather lots of lazy sheet quickly.

If I understand you correctly, it is easier sheeting (over time) with the rachet on? And, the 6:1 IS a noticable improvement over the 5:1?

As for fatigue on the mainsheet, one lake I sail is 14 miles long and ranges from about 200 yards to about 3/4 mile wide. When a good wind blows straight down the lake, I can tack upwind (about 10 miles) hiked out in a few hours. But, I`ll bet (guess) I am tacking 50 times to do it. After that, my arms are definitely sore and tired. The next morning is no peach either, but "by George" I can hardly wait to unclaw my hands and do it again.


Dave

Nick,

Can I assume you have also used the 5:1 as a comparison?

As for the rachet, I haven`t really noticed the locking effect you have mentioned. The ratchet spins in the way you have described, but when it is turned on, all I really notice is some extra drag on the sheet when paying it out. However, I have never purposely tried to lock the line in as you suggest. Does this "locking" remove a lot of the strain while holding a loaded sheet, or is it a more subtle relief of strain? And, to create this locking effect I assume one must have the sheet in hand at all times with a certain amount of tension so as to hold the sheet in the grooves of the rachet?


Dave

Ratchets...

The ratchet system is a great thing to understand and use.

Light air... ratchet off.
Allows the sail to sheet out easily and quickly. Usually there is not enough pressure on the main to pull the line through the blocks with the ratchet on in light air. Allows precise sail control with instant response.

Medium air and light crew or single handed... on or off?
I would keep the ratchet off as you need the sails to respond quickly to healing motion. A ratchet on in this condition could delay sheeting out and cause a capsize.

Heavy air and plenty of crew weight... ratchet on.
The ratchet spins easily when sheeting in, but locks when the sheet is released or held. The line now has to drag across the sheave. Harken blocks have little flats built into the sheave to help pinch the line and hold it when the ratchet is on. Old Seaway blocks have ridges in the sheaves.

This greatly reduces the pull against your sheeting arm.

I get it now! The rachet is my friend.

Jokes aside, I am clearly NOT taking full advantage of this feature... Oh my achy breaky (all fer nuthing!) arms and ribs.

Thanks guys,

Dave

Dave, FWIW the 6:1 was the first thing I replaced on my boat after the main halyard and tramp lacing, both of which were about to let go. (Actually the tramp lacing DID let go in the back and my butt got all wet.) Definately noticable and definately worth it. My 1972 fiddle block did not have any sort of rachet mechanism, however, so that might influence your decision.

Matt,

I sail with the ratchet on in medium wind and solo when I am on the tramp but when I go out on the wire, I turn it off. I want the faster response to ease off the sheet. I find it takes less tension to hold the sheet in one position with it on so flying a hull when on the tramp it feeds out OK. I also always latch the sheet until a hull starts to rise, then I immediately uncleat it. You must always have the sheet in your hand or in your lap. It is also important to have the block set at the proper angle so that a straight horizontal pull will uncleat the sheet.

Howard

Even with the 6:1 in good winds when I'm on the wire it can be tough to hold the sheet uncleated; I like to wrap it around my hand a few times and then hook my thumb into the harness. Then I can use the hand-squeezing motion to subtly adjust the sheet, straighten my hand a little and the sheet will uncoil off my fingertips to run out, or pop my thumb out if I need more play (in or out) than just flexing my hand a little will provide.

Jamie,

Think twice before wrapping any running rigging around your hand. It is universally a bad idea on any sailboat. The reason is if a sudden gust of wind comes up and the sheet begins to move it will take your hand and anything attached to it, with it. If your hand is near a block it will not feel good. And no, you cannot get your hand unwoud fast enough all the time.

That is the reason why we use the cam cleats. So we don't have to jam our finders into the block to hold the line.

6:1 is a big improvement especially when flying a hull, i am constantly trimming to maintain 'flight'. my friend's 7:1 is even better!

Nick is basically right re: wrapping a piece of running rigging around your hand being a bad thing, but the mainsheet on a Hobie Cat is not going to drag your hand through the blocks. Especially considering that in heavy air, you're about 8 feet way from them on the trapeze.

I use exactly the technique that Jim describes for controlling the sheet in heavy air. I don't have the strength in my hand to hold it otherwise. Witness me taking a wrap around my hand:

Well I'm glad to have stumbled upon a method used by the *ahem* more experienced people here.

BTW Matt that's a sweet picture.

Maybe my paranoia comes from seeing broken hands on people who took a wrap with the sheets. This is without the fingers going through the blocks too. I guess I have too much time on the large mono hulls.

Has anyone ever tried this methode (that I have used on a few occasions).I put the tiller extension between two toes then use two hands to double block the main.Make sure your helm is fairly neutral before trying this.Also when my son is helming(14 yrs. old)I will work the main from the crew spot.In fact this is the sheeting arrangement I used when racing the hobie 18 in good wind.You have to have an experienced crew to trust on the main.

[snicker] That's exactly the technique I use on the 17.

Upwind technique on the 17 is to honk it in tight (using both hands and your legs to get it in that last bit), then steer through the waves / gusts. After nearly loosing the tiller off the back of the wing (=instant capsize when the boat heads up while you're still trapping off the wing), I started holding the tiller in between my toes when getting that last bit in.


The only problem is that you have to sail barefoot. I've got a bunch of nicks on my feet from doing that for seven days straight in Rehoboth.