Mark-

Good point about the tethers vs chicken lines, technically slightly different. Another clean "chicken line" system I've used was the one I had on my 5.0- it's sold by Murray's - just a line frunning from rear rudder pin (eyestrap, whatever) along the hull, through a large eyestrap at front lower corner of the front beam, under tramp through block connected to bunji to keep line tensioned, then around to other rudder pin/etc. If long enough can double as righting line- With the fancy sliding knot previously shown this could double as a tether also- A variation is to use the large "hollow" line w/ bunji inside- Just make sure eyestrap is large enough for line to run through w/o "bunching"-

As for the footstraps- I feel they also help maintain control and "contact" with the boat when it's "jumping around" for whatever reason (going over wave, cleat releases suddenly, crew bumps/bangs into you). Usually, when my rear foot is in the footstrap my forward foot is squarely planted against the back of the rear beam (see previous photos) on the Taipan which is a nice, flat "footrest"-



Kirt

Michael wrote:



>With the exception of big water and long distance racing,

>would not the use of "foot-straps" be adequate for stability?



It is for big water and long distance racing that I'm installing chicken lines. For flatter water and buoy racing, I plan to remove them.

Mark,



I agree. Tethers are a separate issue. The chicken line that you describe seems to be very similar to the one shown on the LexisNexis boat in the photos at the beginning of this thread. I don't know why I didn't think to just tie it off to the rudder pin. (I guess I just assumed it would interfere with the rudder.) I do like the LexisNexis system of adding an additional line to limit the stretch of the bungie, as well as Jake's suggestion for attaching the biner to the trap ring.

This just in from the Tommy Bahama story about rounding Cape Hatteras:



“My chicken lines broke. Both of them,” said Brendan Busch of Lexis Nexis, speaking of the safety lines used to prevent skipper and crew from flying forward when smashing into the back of a wave, experiencing sudden and drastic deceleration. “They didn’t wear through or get cut – they broke.”



Conditions were described as follows:



"With wind gusts near 30 knots and 9-foot seas, Alex and Nigel sailed around Cape Hatteras through the Diamond Shoals, an area off the Outer Banks that had swallowed more debris than Charlie Brown’s kite eating tree. Several boats found themselves sliding down the backs of monster waves with nowhere to go, a howling wind behind them, and the cold Atlantic waiting with arms wide."

Kevin,



This system is not complicated and does not effect the rudders. I was concerned with using the rudder pin but found it worked well. You could add the eyestrap for your own comfort and this would keep the systems independent in case of failure.



The 6.0 is a fast strong boat so chicken lines are really handy when the wind picks up. Next thing you know you will be sailing 25 knots with a grin and fear your eyes.

Mark,



> The 6.0 is a fast strong boat so chicken lines are really

> handy when the wind picks up. Next thing you know you

> will be sailing 25 knots with a grin and fear your eyes.



The problem now is when I have it clocking 25 knots WITHOUT the chicken lines! That's when there's fear in the eyes.

If one wanted a 'chicken line' for crew only....is there any harm in simply attaching a line to each side's respected shroud, then just hooking that to your harness? ( a bowline on the bitter end)

Ending the chicken lines on the rudder pins or gudeons and going forward appears to be the way to accomplish what is needed, however, are the rudder assemblies strong enough to withstand 300+ lbs being thrown against them?(actually much more if you count momentum). What would be the best way to attach to the gudeons. would some sort of strap or eye attached across the two bolts be enough? What about cracking the transom? just more thoughts.

I'm interested in doing the same thing to my 5.5SL. Adding footstraps, that is. Gets pretty hairy in a downwind blow trying to balance back on the sterns.

1st problem:

How do you decide what angle and position to set it at (& where to drill the holes)

#2: Where can you purchase the straps anyway?

Thanks,

CARY

Cary-

Check out Murray's- They have them both in the Cat section and windsurfer section as I recall or you can "make your own" out of webbing and webbing straps (see mine on the Taipan in attachment above post). On my old 18 sq. (same hulls as yours) we mounted them on the top edge of the hull (so the leeward one doesn't "drag" in the water), back them up REALLY well w/ SS fender washers or (better) SS plates or Aluminum plates and 3M 5200 or epoxy (better) to spread the load out on the hull. Use a rear port to get access to the inside of your hull-



Kirt

Inter Michael,



Attaching chicken lines to the shroud won't work well. When you need chicken lines you are in the back of the boat and the shroud is too far forward. You really need the attachment on the rudder gougen or an eyestrap on the transom.



Keep One Hull Flying,

Mike Hill

H20 #791

Re: "I'm interested in doing the same thing to my 5.5SL. Adding footstraps, that is. ... How do you decide what angle and position to set it at (& where to drill the holes) "



I put footstraps on my Nacra 5.5. There is not much room behind the rear beam on the 5.5 to work with. I based my location on another 5.5 that had footstraps. The forward part of the footstrap is just behind the rear beam and is bolted in with the rear beam strap bolt to avoid drilling a hole. For the rear I drilled a hole, straight back and very near the center line of the inspection port, but near the hull edge. The other 5.5 I copied from drilled out a rivet in the inspection port and put a new bolt there to avoid putting another hole in the boat. I did not think putting that stress on the lip of the fiberglass at the port was a good idea. You could probably go back a foot further to the end of the hull, but this position seems to work well for me.

In response to Whitecaps' note about footstrap and chicken line usage, I agree. Unless you are familiar with footstrap usage, you might be better off until you DO get used to them. I grew up on windsurfers, and know that the footstrap should never be too snug, and shouldn't really go much past the ball of your foot, lest you suffer ankle injury in a crash. Remember, too, that if you wear shoes, booties, etc. when sailing, account for these. Most straps are adjustable, and learning how to adjust them before mounting them is essential.



I have chicken a chicken line for me attached to the rudder pintle, but I am running a second through the rear beam for the crew. I am concerned about the forces involved on the rudder in a crash when there are two people on the line, but I've heard from other teams that this isn't too much of a problem with the pintle. When we're really flying, the crew traps out jus in front of the rear beam, and moves forward in lighter air, so perhaps the rear beam option for him(her) could suffice.



PS the footstrap for the skipper really helps with gybing, as you can hang out longer, and use the strap to pull yourself in to the tramp if you're caught out there too long in the turn.