I am about to attach my new self tacker to the front crossbar,(I20) has anyone had an mishaps doing this that I should be careful of?

I think Jake Kohl has done this and had something about his experiences on the Sailmax website. You could probably find something on it with a search of the Open Forum.

Is it the new welded aluminum one or the fiberglass one?

Some of the detail during installation of the aluminum one is in this post and there is more detail if you click on the link to go to the flikr images:

http://www.teamseacats.com/?p=94

Note, I'm trying to get the links working properly on our blog software...this link may change - if it doesn't work, post here and I'll update with a new link (or you can just search on the team seacats site for "tacker").

there's not much to it...although I don't think the measurement is in the blog. I can measure the horizontal line the rivets are in on the one I mounted and post here tonight - it's just right.

Yes it is the new aluminum one, someone said to put nuts behind the two end screws and I have done that and may just put nuts on all the screws. The link worked and I would apreciate the exact mesurment to the line I will look at the tabs and see if any are shorter than others they all looked the same when I assembled it.

if you take a metal tape measure, hook the end in the track in the top of the beam. Pull it forward and bend it around the front curve of the beam. The centerline of the rivets is right on 2". You might want to add slightly and go 2 1/8" to 2 3/16" because if this traveler is left up when stepping the mast, the mast base can catch on it. Other than that the trimming position is pretty good there.

I did see one F18 pull two screws out of the backing plate...they do a poor job tapping those and I kinda wonder if they don't just run the screws in a regular hole and forgoe the whole tapping process.

We run our traveler car halfway between the last post and the next to last support post. I would put nuts behind just those bolts on the inside there.

Thanks will drill tonight and rig tomorrow, I do not have the running rigging figured yet I want to do something tricky to be able to furl the jib without detaching the jib sheet, so I will have to do it on the beach.

You've probably seen these already but on the F18, we use a micro block with becket on the traveler. The sheet / tail that hooks from the jib to the traveler attaches to the becket with a tiny snap shackle. To furl, you just unclip the snap shackle at the jib traveler and furl. You can sail it without the shackle hooked in because it will stop at the micro block on the jib - you just loose half your purchase until you clip it back in.

I thought of that, and will do it if I cant figure a way that the crew can furl from the tramp. without having to lean out forward of the beam to unclip it. I am thinking of the times when going down wind and dem dogs is blowing off days chains and you need the jib furled to keep the long stick thing pointed up. i will post pictures if I imagine correctly.

You shouldn't try to furl for downwind runs... The jib is not big enough to make a noticable difference anyway. You are more likely to screw up and go over trying to furl or unfurl the jib.

ex-N20 470 w/self tacker

Not to mention that the thing furls like crap with any wind pressure on it anyway.

quite right, best time to furl is in very light winds - to keep spinny filling

Paul[ex i20 137]

Have furled in light air and in over 25 ever been beat by an A cat down wind with your spin up, it is an amazing thing to behold.
PS Attached the [email]F@#&%[/email] thing and it moves with a lot of friction, I am hoping it will losen up with use, the rivits are on as straight a line as I was able and they all attach, not sure if the rail is straight however it no longer matters as it is on. And I will see how it does.

don't worry about the friction - it's actually a good thing. If the jib flogs, your self tacker won't beat your beam to death (this also applies to trailering)! It will, however, align itself when the jib is sheeted in tight. I've seen them that are floppy loose and felt gyped...then I had one that was floppy loose and I felt lucky.

However, if the tacker is hitting the rivet heads, you probably need to do something about that because it will grind away at the aluminum. I had this problem with the I20 - the t-shaped stainless tabs aren't very precise.

Besides pre grinding the aluminum what else would you suggest? It seems this is a done deal and it is time to see if it works, of course I still have to rig sheet lines so more fun tomorrow.

theres not much you can do about getting beat by a Acat in light air.

After all, they probably weight close to 1/3 of what you do.

That's about it - it's a whole lot easier than attempting to extend the stainless tabs. You'll really like the system - although some of the construction details aren't excecuted flawlessly, the system works very very well.

I get beat by almost everyone, was considering naming the boat DFL. but I race against some very talented sailors so when if ever I do move up in the standings I will have accomplished something.

Marc,

Rumour has it that the DLW moved to Texas a while back - have you seen her?

Aww...that's a bit harsh isn't it. I know Marc has put on a little over the years, but he did weigh less than 495lbs the last time I saw him <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />