Hey,
I have told three people I would send them some pictures of my 5.2 spin rig, but instead I thought I would post them on here again. These are not close up shots, if you want to know specifically how to do it I am going to do a write up here about it.

1. You will need all the parts, you can try and fabricated them yourself or you can order them online from Murrays.com (sorry rick you don't carry alot of the Nacra stuff in the online store) below is a list of parts and links to them

Pin that mounts on front beam where the pole sits
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?...p;Store_Code=MS

Spinnaker Bale (this is what the line at the top runs through at you hoist to)
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?...p;Store_Code=MS

Pole (just about anything will work, but about 12 feet has worked well for me)
Snuffer hoop( mine is aluminum but you can buy carbon ones from ricks online store I believe)
Spinlock cleat to cleat the halyard
4 ratchet blocks

Step one:
I drilled a hole through each bow then refilled that with epoxy. The hole i drilled was about 3/4 of an inch and then once the epoxy hardened I redrilled a 1/2 inch hole. This was to make sure I was drilling into solid hull. You can see in the picture above that I ran a piece of non stretch line through the hole and tied a figure 8 knot on the outside and a loop on the inside. this give me something solid to attach the bridle wires that support the spin pole to.
You can also see that I have bridles that run to where the bridle wires attach. This supports the middle of the pole.
In the picture above I have no prebend in the pole but I now run with about 3 inch's of prebend in the pole that I pull into it using a truckers hitch on the two bridle lines up front.
To support the pole vertically I have a loop of low stretch line tied around the connection of the bridles and the forestay. there is also a metal support that i made out of 1/4 inch stainless cable just like your shrouds would be made of but it was a pain.

Step two:
To ready the mast for the rig I mounted the spinnaker bale about half way between the shroud attachment point and the top of the mast. This may be a little high but my mast appears to handle it okay even up to 25mph wind as long as you keep the mainsheet tight to provide support for the mast.
Above the bale I mounted a block which the halyard runs up through and then back under the bale.

That is really all there is to the mast setup, it was simple enough. depending on the spin you may have to adjust the hoist height but you can change that or the pole height. Both can cause problems so be careful.

Step three:
Rigging the sheets was pretty easy for me. I run an inter 17 spin and pole so if you have a different spin or pole you will run into some different issues.

For the outside set up blocks i have them attached at the shrouds to the bottom hole in the adjuster. This has worked well for me but you might want to experiment with farther forward or back. If you go forward just use a backer plate of some kind and bolt and eye strap to the hull. But I would be careful with that setup.

from that block the line leads to a block on the front beam, this is another ratchet block. It is attached at the same place where the wire for the jib blocks is attached. But you could adjust that depending on where you wanted it but I have found that to be about ideal.

Then the sheet leads to the other side and through two more ratchet blocks that are mirrored of the two I just mentioned.

Depending on the wind speed I either run no ratchets on or both on both sides on.

In this photo you an see where the halyard cleat is mounted, it had worked well for us, but you do have to be a long way forward to hoist and we have had a few issues with the crew being so far forward at the bear-away as he starts to hoist.

Here you can see the spinnaker flying in the front yard. There isn't much detail but you can see what you will end up with.

In this picture you can see the white sheet, that is the spin sheet. This is about the best one I have that shows how it is ran.

Here is a picture of me flying all three sails in light air. The snuffer rig makes it possible and actually not that hard to do.

If anyone has any other questions just ask on here, I will try to get on here once daily to answer any questions.

Disclaimer.... I am no expert and have extra hulls at an extra mast at my house so I didn't mind taking some risks.

Awesome!

If I can get anytime to work on our boat, I will use your write up!

Thanks!!!

Exactly what I was looking for. Iam going to save it My favorites so I can refer back. Thanks. I may have additional
questions, If I do i'll PM you.

SO you have tested your new spin at 25mph? Yea Haw!

time to mow the lawn?

You would rather mow the lawn than sail? You sick bastard... <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> The lawn will still be there when the wind dies.

Apparently the wind has been blowing steady there for the last couple of months <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

just talking sh*t
<img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

That is actually the lawn next door, my front yard had a sunfish in it and it is mowed.

You've got great neighbours, you dump all your gear on it so they can't mow the lawn and you keep yours neat. Does your wife know you own a cat? Thanks for your posts its perfect info for my project.
regards

You might want to think about adding *some* prebend to that pole.

In one of the posts I stated that after some tests I did start prebending the pole. usually about 3-4 inchs based on what the wind is doing.

I am getting ready to set up a spin on my 5.7 very soon. I have all of the blocks, spin, Haulyard, sheet, and hoop, and am waiting for my pole this week. Can you add a pic of the attachment of the pole to the main beam? and another of the retreval line attachment to the spin. or an explanation of how this works. My spin has two patches for retreval, I havnt got a clue how this is set up. I have an end pole snuffer similar to yours, how is the retreval line run at the back of the bag, did you run it up thru the tramp? Maby put a grommet in the tramp?
I will have a ton of questions once I get started.
Great post!

AZCAT,
I will try and get the pictures you requested but for now I will just describe it.

The attachment point on the main beam is pretty simple. Mine basically consists of a plate or stainless with an inch long pin sticking off it. That is rivited to the main beam directly in front of the mast step. Then the pole has a hole at the end that you simple stick onto the pin. The tension of the bridals holds it on the pin. I had trouble picturing it at first also, but it is really simple once you see it.

As for the snuffer line.
I did not run mine through the tramp, it comes out the end of the bag just in front of the front crossbar. Then it runs up through an eye strap i have mounted on the front beam. Mine is a continuous halyard and dousing line so after what was mentioned above it loops and runs through the halyard cleat and up the mast.

If you have an end pole snuffer you are going to run into the same problem that I did when you douse. All the spinnaker is going to try and bunch up at the end of the pole and you will never get it to douse correctly. To fix this problem after I have lead the dousing line up through the two patchs in the spinnaker I tied a knot in the dousing line between the two patchs. This causes part of the spinnaker to go in before the rest. It made it alot easier and has fixed that problem.

I will work on getting you those pictures.

How do you hoist the spin solo- use one hand? What about playing the main during that procedure?

The Hoist (I am no expert this is what works for me)
After rounding the windward mark I make sure that i am clear of traffic and if needed will jibe to get clear of traffic if needed.
Then I head straight downwind or close to it and travel all the way out with the main still sheeted hard to provide support for the mast. At that point I move forward and towards the middle of the tramp, this puts me in a good position to pull the halyard. Also I can tuck the tiller extension under the back on my knees which allows me to hold the boat at the course I want. Then I hoist the sail, it only takes about 4-5 seconds.
Once it is to the top I move back and begin trimming, I worry about the spinnaker before i get the main and jib back in tune just because it is the powerhouse downwind and i feel like it gives the most immediate speed. Once it is trimmed I trim the main and jib,
the main you have to keep sheeted hard to support the mast, but you will be surprised that is what the sail wants because the speed the spin adds will bring the apparent wind way forward. So basically the sail is in upwind configuration other than I release the outhaul to provide extra depth to the sail and stay traveled out based on the angle I am running.
The jib also will be trimmed in pretty tight, but not quite to upwind trim, just watch the tell tales, I just get it close and then don't worry about it, the spinnaker is the only sail I trim going downwind.
To depower and power-up I either bear-away or head-up. That was one of the hardest things to learn at first, that I had to bear away to depower and I have found it is much faster to bear way and use the extra speed from a puff than to release the spinnaker which instantly kills you speed.

With a crew I work the traveler and he trims the spin downwind, it is alot easier and more fun to be honest, the two of you just have to be in sync to get good speed out of the boat.

On another note, I raced my Nacra 5.2 with the spin this past weekend and ended up taking second in a small regatta on Lake Hefner.

Downwind when the wind was blowing between 10-12 my crew and I were beating two farrier F28 trimarans, we could easily pass them downwind and sometimes hang onto the lead upwind. We beat one of them over the line every race and the other was never very far ahead and we would have beat him one race had we known where the finish line was.... Long story

I am just starting to learn what the boat can do under spin, so we will see but for now I am happy with beating a couple of boats that are worth about 150 times what my 5.2 is worth.

So does the dousing line just run through the spin at one patch, run to the other patch and tie off on the other side? How is it attached to the spin?
My pole should be here this week and I can see how the back end is set up before trying to figure out how to attach it to the main beam. Hopefully it is as simple as you describe.

The dousing line runs through the tube/bag under the pole then out the opening and up through one patch then the other. Like I said I have a knot tied between them so the spin comes into the bag in two seperate bunchs rather than one big one. I have had to adjust where the knot is alot to get it right, but that is something you will just have to test.

I will be rigging my boat Tuesday so I will try and get the pictures then. I will take more detailed pics of alot of the spinnaker rig.

I'm installing a spinnaker on my 474 Freestyle after obtaining it after the former owner of the spinnaker broke oen hull of his boat in half at the fromt beam.

I'd guess a spreadere bar installed under the bridle may have been needed to prevent the catastrophic faliure.

Do you guys think such a spreader bar is important for most beachcat spinnaker installations...?

Gree,

Awesome information!!!. I'd do thank you for taking the time. I have spoke with Mark from the Cathouse and he has a I-17 midpole system he is going to sell me. Could you explain if this system is good or bad for the 5.2 and why.

Gree can you also explain where or how we make the bridles for the spin pole(forestay and front hull attachment points), also did you drill the front of your hulls or tap them for a fitting?? Did you also have to reinforce the hulls or the spreader bar. Are you still running the original single through or upgraded spreader bar?

Here is what Im looking to put on.


Here is what I have now.



Would this be easier via PM?, Just thought others might like to see the questions being asked so you don't get multiple of the same type

One more thing can someone please explain with a midpole system when the spinnaker is in the snuffer how does the bottom get pulled to the end of the pole when raising; is this done with a separate halyard/douse line?

Thanks again,

Okay, lots of questions to answer....

1. Would the midpole snuffer work well for the 5.2.... honestly I have no idea. I would think it might be tougher for solo sailing because you have a tack line that pulls the tack (front corner) of the spinnaker out to the end of the pole rather than it already being there.

2. As for the bridal supports for the spin pole, I did drill the bows and refill them with epoxy and then rerilled a smaller hole. Then just tied a figure 8 knot on the backside of the hull and a loop of any high tech low stretch line on the inside. The bridals are all just a low stretch line, I am not sure what it is, it came with my pole and works very well. To tighten it down each time I have a truckers hitch tied in the line and can really crank down on it.

3. My hulls are reinforced, when my decks were off this winter I added bulk heads, and extra stringers. Plus I have an extra set of hulls if I break one.

4. I originally had the the older style mast and i feel like it would work just fine. I ran the spin on it or a while. But now I am running the newer style mast, and it is working very well... but I have no clue whether it works better than the old one.



Nacra477, I hope that your pole you are getting works well, i think it should the midpole snuffer shouldn't be to hard to figure out and I have heard that you can still rig it up as a single line to pull but it would be more complicated.

Holly Mackerel what a HOT cat~!!! Looks just like mine! Oh yea, it is mine <img src="http://www.catsailor.com/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />....

A few suggestions.... you may want your basket about 1 foot further out.... this will help avoid your spin halyard from getting twisted up with your jib when furling (or unfurling).


I get around this by tying a slip knot in the retrevial line (on deck)once it is all the way in the bag. The grommet in my tramp grabs this knot and stops the line. Then i can pull the halyard very tight and take out any slack, but it is 2 extra steps that would be avoided by moving the basket out more. I may move it one day... but that requires drilling more holes in my pole... and adding new weak points for the fiberglass to break.


You MAY want to angle your basket downward to reduce windage.. but that means you can only drop your spin from 1 side... i currently can drop on either side.

Also… a note about your retrieval line… I used to have 3 lines: a tack line, a halyard and a retrieval line… I now have a continuous halyard / retrieval line. It saves me a lot of hassle as my retreval would always have a knot in it when raising and cause a jam and or my halyard would get a knot in it during dousing.. I always had to throw a line in the water to stretch it out before I could raise/lower my spin. I ended up getting 85’ of real thin line and ran it as both halyard / retrieval line. There are 2 small blocks and a ring on my tramp that I run the lines through to keep it from jamming up.

Below is a friends tramp with the same set up. You can see 1 small block in the middle attached through a hiking strap grommet. The 2nd block (hidden) is at the end of the strap and the ring is on the other strap end. For some reason the ring works better than a 3rd block. This was copied from the Tornado setup.

I had my local shop create short stays ( with very light cable) about 1 foot shorter than needed and i use line to tie off to the pole (with a rolling hitch knot). this way i can adjust the amount of pre-bend.

why is the pole so high? It looks like the foot of the jib is pretty far up there... Wouldn't that increase the instability?

the pole is high because i am running a smaller spin (F-18) and the cut of the spin determines the placement of the pole...

The jib is furled so you cant actually see the foot location in that pic...

not sure if this helps but here is a pic of the same boat with the jib out

Good and bad news, the spin rig for the 5.2 I run handles very well in big air and doesn't break anything. But you can pitchpole, and when it happens it goes fast.

Tonight in a Tuesday night series on Lake Hefner I rounded the top mark and headed for the reaching mark while pulling the spin up. Girlfriend was trimming, the bows dug in hard once but popped up and then they dug in again but there was no return. Talk about a mess, spinnaker and lines everywhere in the water. But we got her righted and raced the next race.

Guys thanks for all the info, andrescott sorry for posting your pic but I really like the way you have set yours up and was trying to show how i would like to set mine up!! I am going to go with the SNU Snuffer system, 1.5" pole from Murrays, and theCatSailors Sheeting and Halyard Packages.. How do you know when to pre bend or to not? Also I'm buying my spinnaker sail from Whirlwind for a 5.2, should I tell them anything special or is this how i know how long to make my pole? Sorry for all the question new to the spinnaker side of things.

How do you know how high or low you run your pole under the main bridal and forstay and why?

I rigged a kite on a P-19 a few years ago, and on a Nacra 5.5u a few years before that. Your gear sounds fine; I started with a kit from (then) Sailing Pro Shop that included a 12' carbon pole, sheets, halyard, and blocks. Prebend? Always. When you pick up the front of the boat by the tip of the pole, the pole should not go straight, let alone invert. As for height of pole tip, remember the lower you pull it, the greater the side loads on your hulls. I used a really long pole on the 19 (I had a big kite) and never had the lines break or pull out.
Good luck

Hey, thanks a million for this post. I finally got the spin rigged on my 5.7 and followed this post to do it and it basicaly went up without a hitch. had to re-rout a couple of lines but never had to de rig. I had the GPS on and the second downhill i clocked 19 mph.
I have been leaving the spin in the sock and leaving everything attached except the lines that go down from the hoop to the bows. I use those to hang the pole from the stowed mast. I then take a small tarp and wrap it around the hoop, pole and sock and tie it up fairley snug. I travel about 40 min. to lake pleasant and in route it doesent move much. is this going to put holes in my spin?

Is there anyone else that is this lazy and dosnt flake the spin? Is this a big NO NO?

Also, I am having a little problem snuffing. I have an end pole snuffer and a 2 patch spin. its like stuffing a basketball up a mosquitos a**. I am thinking of tying a peice of 1/8" dyneema to the lower patch and lead it up to approx. 1/2 the distance from the lower patch to the upper patch less 12"-14", and somehow tying or splicing it into the dousing line.
Upon dousing, this would pull through the lower patch and end up pulling the lower patch into the sock 12"to 14" before the upper patch. has this been tried? are there better ideas out there/
It seems that I saw a post with pics a couple months ago of a way to do this but I cant find it through the search. seems like it incorporated a small plastic ring attached to the lines somewhere.

When you leave your spinnaker in the bag it will get wet when rains.

Wet spinnaker + time = new spinnaker soon.

Also, UV if your spinnaker has any colors they will fade. It happen to my spinnaker but it was a bitter anyway.

Kris

most people feel a fresh water rinse, air dry and flake will extend the life of the spin. I usually do this but its a pain.. plus i live in an apartments so that means... in the bath tub... then hanging in my apt for 2 days. i have left my spin rigged also when i get lazy.

If you are flying a used spin and dont care to much about it i say leave it. if its new... and you love the crispyness... treat it well.

a trick i learned from an olympic cat sailer to spread out the patches for dousing is to use a nylon line ball after the first patch, and use a long (8-12") bowline knot at the top patch. this will help get the first patch in the sock without the second one right with it.

The ring post was: run the retrieval line through a plastic ring and tie a bungee cord from the ring to the clew. this will pull the sheets in with the spin. it is great for getting lines off your tramp and helps hide some extra retrieval line from your tramp. i ended up needing about 3' of bungee or i would have had to replace/increase my sheets. I figure .63 cents of extra bungee was better than new sheets for $40.

I live in Arizona and the "WET KITTY" is kept under an RV shade. There isn't much chance of it getting wet. I also have it wrapped in a doubled up tarp. One of the brown and silver ones from HD.
I think that if those are the only considerations, it should be ok.
It's much easier to set up and and tear down at the lake.

offtopic..but related. I am fixing up an old 5.2. You picture shows the setup for tensioning the daggerboards so they don't slide. Do you have a closer shot? all lines and bungie cords on my boat are rotted, and I don't know how to set up the daggerboard. My 5.2 is like yours..it has the aluminum pole down the center of the tramp.
Thanks,
Dave

If you click on the picture of this link There are some pictures of how I have my dagger boards.

nacra 5.2

airborne