I think I should elaborate on the topic here. As apparently I use a system that some-one thinks can never work.

My rings are indeed slightly above the gunnel of the boat But I still have sufficient bungee pressure on the traplines.

[Linked Image]

I do use 4 mm bungee now that runs underneath my tramp (and inside my mainbeam) 3 times ! See picture. I sew little blocks underneath my trampoline and under an angle a shown (this to prevent the bungee rubbing on itself. The bungee cord than comes up through the tramp via grommets. This way there is 5 mtr of 4 mm bungee cord attached to the trapeze instead of only 2 mtr 5mm or 4mm. This allows you to pull the trapeze out by at least 2.5 mtr without increasing the pull force in any significant way. In reverse it takes in similar amounts without losing much pulling force at all. In my particular setup I tested it to 5 mtr pull-out and it still worked as planned. It is important to keep the little blocks running smoothly though. Do it like this and don't worry to much about the loss of pulling force.


>>The purpose of the bungy line is to store the trapeze in an easily accessible position
AND provide an upward pull to tension the ring in the harness.

"No problem" on the first and "its good enough on the second. I find that the inward pull pulls the top of the ring towards the trampoline and thus keeps the ring in the hook when the length is more or less adjusted properly for getting out. It does so less than the more cenventional vertical bungee cords to pull on the adjustment line but I personally go in and out high and drop lower when out so I don't think much of this supposed problem. It is however important to have some distance between the baring surface of the ring/hook and the attachment of the bungee. This to allow it to angle. So the other systems allow more leeway in this but your system should give you enough pull upward to prevent the ring from dropping out. I'm happy. But than again I don't lead the bungees all the way to the gunnal but have them come out of the mainbeam (far in front) and out from the trampoline (some distance inward) I think this helps keeping the ring in the hook


>>If the ring is raised to provide tension, the crew WILL NOT be in the best position.

Somebody is forgetting that the trapezes drawn are adjustable in length while out.


However if this setup falls than there is a very easy fix. Just shackle two small blocks to one another and let the bungee run through the lower one while the cleat adjustment line runs through the top one. This will give you the old system again. I had this in mind if mine system should have failed. I haven't converted yet nor do I think I will do so. See picture.

So my approach was just try it and see it it works and if not than I can always modify it to the old system. You can walk the same path.

Wouter

Attached Files
Last edited by Wouter; 04/06/05 12:56 PM.

Wouter Hijink
Formula 16 NED 243 (one-off; homebuild)
The Netherlands