Luiz,
yup, the gooseneck is a mess but the piece it's mounted on is tricky, first the tube there is a clamp (2 half shells that open so you can rotate the mast into place, this just leaves the aft half to attach the braces to and you can't rivet anything to it, so whatever is there will have to be welded, next the right angle at the outboard end of the braces goes into a molded recess so the whole brace just drops in vertically, this gives us more bearing area and holds the brace in position while you rotate the rig up to the clamp, seemed like a better way than trying to juggle to pieces that can move at the same time.
As for the rudder compensation, I just hadn't got around to doing it yet, rudders came off the F16 design which has canted hulls and so its not necessary.
As for boards, a quick look showed that the leeway angle was excessive without them, so they got put in.

Bob,
Lower volume is no problem, just use the round bilge version of the hulls, I had thought that the reason to do hard chine hulls was so that it would be easy to make these from playwood and keep it all cheap? The hulls are all the same in the pic's, its just the perspective. As for the deep V, due to entry limitations that are inherent in what you can twist play into, the waterline sections in a hardchine boat are quite draggy, you can offset that a bit by keeping it narrower but that gets you a deeper hull. I don't think there is a perfect answer to this one, it really just gets down to your choices and what you want.
Cheers
RG